first developer and fixer

[ongakublue]

hi everyone,

I am buying my first developer and fixer but the options in the local store seem limited. They have Ilford Rapid Fixer and Ilford PQ Universal which it says is for black and white. Do you know these? Does it matter that the film I am developing is Fomapan sometimes and not Ilford? It seems like a minefield but maybe I don't need to worry about the intricacies of this for starters. Oh yeah and they also sell Adox Rodinal.


Thanks for your words of wisdom


J

 

[R.Gould]

The ilford rapid fixer is fine, a standard fixer for all film and paper, the PQ unirversal is a developer for film and paper, good for paper and works nfor film, but I would be inclined to use Rodinal, which is great for Fomapan, and great for ilford, it keeps forever, and I mean for ever, and is a dedicated film developer, which should give better negatives.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

Ilford Rapid Fix is a fine fixer and my standard. I works for film and paper (just don't use fixer used on film for paper and vice-versa, mix separate batches for each).

And, as mentioned, although you can use the Ilford Universal developer for film, you might be better off with a developer optimized for film. Standards in this category are Ilford ID-11 (same as Kodak D-76) powdered developer, Kodak HC-110 liquid developer concentrate (keeps forever in concentrate form and there's a website dedicated to using it somewhere), and Rodinal (also liquid concentrate and keeps forever). There are many others, but if you're just starting out, any of the above will get you going in splendid shape.

FWIW, photo chemistry is basically the same no matter what brand you use. You can freely process any kind of film in anyone else's developer, stop and fix.

Best,

Doremus

 

[ongakublue]

Ilford Rapid Fix is a fine fixer and my standard. I works for film and paper (just don't use fixer used on film for paper and vice-versa, mix separate batches for each).

And, as mentioned, although you can use the Ilford Universal developer for film, you might be better off with a developer optimized for film. Standards in this category are Ilford ID-11 (same as Kodak D-76) powdered developer, Kodak HC-110 liquid developer concentrate (keeps forever in concentrate form and there's a website dedicated to using it somewhere), and Rodinal (also liquid concentrate and keeps forever). There are many others, but if you're just starting out, any of the above will get you going in splendid shape.

FWIW, photo chemistry is basically the same no matter what brand you use. You can freely process any kind of film in anyone else's developer, stop and fix.

Best,

Doremus

Thanks a lot for the info. Another question, Do I really need a changing bag? I have a bathroom with no windows and very little light coming through the door. Not even an open keyhole. Do you think this room might be dark enough? Or is the film really really sensitive?

 

[Rick A]

Thanks a lot for the info. Another question, Do I really need a changing bag? I have a bathroom with no windows and very little light coming through the door. Not even an open keyhole. Do you think this room might be dark enough? Or is the film really really sensitive?

Sit in the room with the lights off. Wait several minutes, if you see light coming in from around the door, no it's not good enough. I use a heavy black drape over the door in my dark room to keep exteranious light from entering.
FWIW, changing bags can be a royal pain to work with, they trap heat and humidity from hands and film can be a PITA to load onto reels from it. Spend the money on a heavy drape and work on the counter top.

 

[Huub]

I would use a towel or some dark tape to block as much light as possible in your bathroom. If there is still a bit of light leaking along the edges of the door, stand with your back to it and you'll be alright. Light travels in straight lines, plus your eyes are so much more sensitive to low levels of light then film is. A changing bag is really a PITA to use to load film.

 

[Slixtiesix]

The fixer is not critical. Any modern rapid fixer will do, as long as you follow the recommendations (give enough fixing time and mind the maximum capacity). The Ilford product is high quality, you can buy with confidence. When it comes to film developer, you can combine a wide variety of developers with a wide variety of films, they are - almost - all compatible, brands do not matter, but results may vary. Rodinal is a standard developer which can be used with almost every film, it is easy to use and ideal to begin with. So no problem. It is important to expose the film correctly and develop to a medium contrast, also it is important to make the whole process repeatable, using the same dilution, temperature and agitation every time (however, you can experiment with these variables if you like!).

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Thanks a lot for the info. Another question, Do I really need a changing bag? I have a bathroom with no windows and very little light coming through the door. Not even an open keyhole. Do you think this room might be dark enough? Or is the film really really sensitive?

film isreally light sensitive but your windowless darkroom might be ok.take a chair and sit in the dark room for 20 minutes ,then judge for yourself;a towel at the bottom of the door will help;
I find changing bags cumbersome.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Thanks a lot for the info. Another question, Do I really need a changing bag? I have a bathroom with no windows and very little light coming through the door. Not even an open keyhole. Do you think this room might be dark enough? Or is the film really really sensitive?

film isreally light sensitive but your windowless darkroom might be ok.take a chair and sit in the dark room for 20 minutes ,then judge for yourself;a towel at the bottom of the door will help;
I find changing bags cumbersome and only use it for emergencies.

 

[MattKing]

I would use a towel or some dark tape to block as much light as possible in your bathroom. If there is still a bit of light leaking along the edges of the door, stand with your back to it and you'll be alright. Light travels in straight lines, plus your eyes are so much more sensitive to low levels of light then film is. A changing bag is really a PITA to use to load film.

+1

Also, you can load reels and developing tanks at night, with the lights outside the room turned down/off, and then wait until it is convenient to develop the film.

I have waited as long as a week between loading the reels and developing the film (unexpected changes of plan happen) and everything was fine. Just remember to label the developing tank with the film inside, and tape it to prevent accidental opening.

 

[RattyMouse]

I have never used a changing bag. If your bath room is dark enough so that you can't see your own hand in front of your face, you are good to go.

 

[Sirius Glass]

film isreally light sensitive but your windowless darkroom might be ok.take a chair and sit in the dark room for 20 minutes ,then judge for yourself;a towel at the bottom of the door will help;
I find changing bags cumbersome and only use it for emergencies.

When I use a changing bag, I use a large one so that I am not squeezed into a small hot bag.

Dead Link Removed

 

[jeffreythree]

I close an old, flannel, navy blue sheet in the door to black my laundry room out all the way. It may take some adjustment if there is a light leak. I was getting leaks in more places than a towel at the bottom would stop. I considered a changing bag, but now I have added an enlarger and all its needs as well that don't fit in in a bag.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

Thanks a lot for the info. Another question, Do I really need a changing bag? I have a bathroom with no windows and very little light coming through the door. Not even an open keyhole. Do you think this room might be dark enough? Or is the film really really sensitive?

No problem if your room is dark enough. I use a bathroom with no windows for a darkroom (film developing in trays only) in Europe. I simply toss a towel on the floor under the door to block light. The test: turn off the lights, block all the light coming in with a towel or whatever and wait 5 minutes. If it's still dark, you're fine. If you see light, find a way to block it. When everything is dark after 5 minutes or so, the film will be safe.

Best,

Doremus

 

[pentaxuser]

Given that light tends to come in via the sides and tops of most internal doors in houses, the best and quickest method might be to have a curtain pole about 3 inches above the top of the door and stretching say 3 inches either side. The curtain could be looped at the bottom as if it was a small bag and filled with sand and of such a length that it sat on the floor

It could be hooked back when not in use. If the material was thick enough such as black velvet and given that light travels in straight lines this should prove an effective blackout

Just a thought

pentaxuser