First Color Print using RA-4

[Tom Taylor]

I just got a Beseler Dichro Colorhead for my C23 enlarger and made a print from Fuji Reala to Fuji paper. It looks very nice (took 5 tries). The shot is of a model in studio lighting. The background has the slightest tinge although the overall color balance is fine. I think the issue arises from the fact that lighting of the background at the time of the shot was not carefully done. Is there any suggestions for changing the filter pack to render the background white? My best print came from Y45 M55. Apologies in advance, I don't have a way to scan the print (and also, it's still wet). Thanks!

To change the color of the background without affecting the color of the model, you can simply mask-off the model and make two exposures using two different filter packs: one for the model and the 2d for the background. The cut-out and placement must be precise and avoiding a dark line where the exposure overlaps will present a problem. I did this once with a photo of Horsetail Fall in Yosemite where I changed the bland grey color of the sky into a nice blue. I made a test strip with about a dozen different shades of blue to pick from.

Thomas

 

[Photo Engineer]

Roger, you are right. An analyzer confuses most people. Color printing at EK was taught without an analyzer for just that reason even though we had them everywhere. I have 2 and neither one is "good" enough for the accurate work a good eye and experience can give.

PE

 

[DREW WILEY]

Invest in a few really good lightbulbs instead. I have several options of color temperature at the workstation, because how the prints are finally displayed in this respect is an important factor. When in doubt, I standardize somewhere in the middle, around 4200K. Unfortunately,
many cities are now mandating low-e bulbs which have not really arrived in terms of color reproduction qualities. Some of them, like CFL's,
literally give me headaches because the spectrum is so wacko. Even the allegedly better ones are just filtered for approx color temp, but
still have a highly discontinuous spectrum. I suspect that LED lighting will leapfrog over these miserable things; but even it is no substitute yet for old school lighting when in comes to accurate color analysis.

 

[Tom Taylor]

To change the color of the background without affecting the color of the model, you can simply mask-off the model and make two exposures using two different filter packs: one for the model and the 2d for the background. The cut-out and placement must be precise and avoiding a dark line where the exposure overlaps will present a problem. I did this once with a photo of Horsetail Fall in Yosemite where I changed the bland grey color of the sky into a nice blue. I made a test strip with about a dozen different shades of blue to pick from.

Thomas

I should add that you should first try tweaking the complimentary yellow and magenta to see if you can eliminate the pink cast without affecting the color of the model which is the subject. If you don't already have a viewing kit you should acquire one. I assumed that you did since, except for the background, you arrived at a satisfactory filter pack. If you can't eliminate the color cast of the background without negatively impacting the subject, then IMO you will have to mask-off and proceed as I have set-out above. Eliminating the tell-tale signs of the double exposure will be challenging but doable.

Thomas

 

[RedSun]

I tried three brand name color analyzers. The first two did not help much (though both had good reputations). But the last one really helps. It can quickly get calibrated after about 3 strips. Then I can get a acceptable prints with other negatives. I can change the filtration to get the effects I want. It takes much longer it I do not use analyzer.

Well, this is what I do. The mileage varies....

 

[Tom Taylor]

This could just as easily be a minor chem or temp problem.

+1.

Pinkish highlights can result when the developer temperature is too high. Use reliable thermometers and closely monitor the temperature - especially that of the developer.

Thomas

 

[tnabbott]

The OP is the same person who posted in the 2015 predictions thread that he gave up film because it was too hard to "source" (I think he means "buy") supplies and that film is dead. So advice is likely to be wasted.

Roger, you need not take my predictions so personally. This thread illustrates the point of my other post to some degree. I discovered and was enjoying RA-4 printing only to learn that Kodak discontinued its RA-4 chemicals. This was actually the straw that broke the camel's back for me.

 

[tnabbott]

Of course you are right. I just thought it ironic that he started this thread about his first RA4 print in August and by January had given up on film. We've become a society of, if not instant gratification, at least remarkable impatience. Personally I find most rewarding those things I've has to put time and effort into learning.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk and 100% recycled electrons - because I care.

Lovely: you have no comprehension of my experience with analogue and yet you do not hesitate to post making assumptions in that area. Roger, you bring down the level of this forum considerably.

 

[RedSun]

Just calm things down and do not post provocative messages. Then we all enjoy discussions better.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Roger, you need not take my predictions so personally. This thread illustrates the point of my other post to some degree. I discovered and was enjoying RA-4 printing only to learn that Kodak discontinued its RA-4 chemicals. This was actually the straw that broke the camel's back for me.

Kodak did not discontinue RA4 chemistry.

In addition, RA4 chemistry can be purchased from Fuji and Trebla.

PE

 

[RPC]

RA-4 chemistry can also be successfully home-brewed.

 

[Photo Engineer]

The correct lithium salts are hard to get.

 

[RPC]

They are not used in the developer formula I have tried (after some modification), and it still works well. It is hard to see any difference between prints made in it and the Kodak developer. Gray scales show no crossover. It works with both Fuji CA II and Endura paper. The prints may not pass every Kodak spec, but I don't care since they are close enough. If RA-4 chemistry ever does go away, I am ready (plenty of paper and CD-3 frozen).

 

[mnemosyne]

Roger, you need not take my predictions so personally. This thread illustrates the point of my other post to some degree. I discovered and was enjoying RA-4 printing only to learn that Kodak discontinued its RA-4 chemicals. This was actually the straw that broke the camel's back for me.

Is it possible that your are confusing RA4 and E6 chemistry here? Kodak has not discontinued their RA-4 chemistry and I'm pretty sure they will not do so in the foreseeable future as RA4 is still a big and healthy market. OTOH, there is nothing wrong with trying RA4 and finding out it's not your cup of tea.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Kodak chem mfg has been farmed out for some time, but still the same ole yellow label. Some of the pkg volumes have been changed, with
slower selling sizes of certain items deleted, but otherwise, no problem. I could buy fresh Kodak RA4 chem five minutes drive from here today if I wanted. There are also identical generic replacements for RA/RT.