Fine crystals on palladium prints

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mikepry

mikepry

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Mike,
I usually develop for 2 minutes. I found, by some reason I can't explain, that my prints cleared better going from 1min up to 2 min. on dev. time.
 
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Mike,

The reason they clear better is that the developer is also a clearing bath, and a hot clearing bath is better then a room temperature clearing bath.

I see this as another benefit of pulling the print out of the PO faster, though, because I don't want the PO fouled up with FO and pt/pd salts, so the quicker it comes out, the less the PO loads up with that stuff. It does mean a little more effort on the clearing bath end however, to ensure complete clearing.

Once the moon aligns properly, you'll be back to making great prints again.


---Michael
 

EricNeilsen

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sanking said:
I prepare my PO solution just as Eric describes and I have never had crystallization problems, but then again I nearly always use the PO solution at room temperature.

However, if I understand the issues as they are being stated, I conclude the following. Please correct me if I am wrong.

1. Michael proposes using a weaker solution of potassium oxalate because this apparently gives better clearing in his condition. I am assuming he mixes the PO solution from well water rather than with distilled water?

2.Ole suggests that problems in clearing may be due to the formation of calcium oxalate, and proposes as the solution ether filtering the PO solution, or mixing it with distilled water, noting that reducing the concentrate of the PO solution will not address this particular problem.

3. Eric uses a concentrated solution of PO, and mixes with a reverse osmosis system, and apparently gets good clearing with this technique.

In my own work I usually have no problem at all in getting good clearing, with PO solution mixed with tap water, but have noticed that from time to time a fresh mixture of PO would immediately result in some staining, even though all other conditions were the same. From this discussion I am beginning to suspect that the culprit for this may be seasonal changes in my tap water so I will plan to mix my PO solutions in the future with distilled water.

Now, is there any literature which suggests that the clearing baths might also benefit from being mixed with distilled water.


Sandy


Sandy, I haven't seen it written other than in my book, but I trust my eyes. A cloudy bath indicates the formation of a solid. With distilled/RO water I have not seen the cloudy effects. The cloudiness will appear with HCL clearing bath as well as plain tap water; this was very evident when prints were made in Taos from wells. Potassium Oxalate has been made in my darkroom and those that I work in for the past 25+ years with ONLY distilled or RO water.

Eric
 

sanking

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Eric,

Well, you have convinced me on this, and I plan to mix the PO solutions with distilled water from now on.

What about the other question. Do you use tap distilled water (or reverse osmosis) for mixing the clearing baths?

Sandy




EricNeilsen said:
Sandy, I haven't seen it written other than in my book, but I trust my eyes. A cloudy bath indicates the formation of a solid. With distilled/RO water I have not seen the cloudy effects. The cloudiness will appear with HCL clearing bath as well as plain tap water; this was very evident when prints were made in Taos from wells. Potassium Oxalate has been made in my darkroom and those that I work in for the past 25+ years with ONLY distilled or RO water.

Eric
 

EricNeilsen

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Sandy, Sorry, I was trying to get some digital work done an djust used APUG as a break. I also use the RO water for 95% of my clearing bath mixing. When I was on a well in Taos, every trip to the store included a hand full of distilled water. The RO system has been great in providing good clean water.

I had two additional thoughts on the cystals that Mike was having problems with on his prints. Was that from the "hard to mix" developer? Perhaps you just didn't have your chemistry balanced and the solution that you beleived to be PO was indeed too heavy in Oxalic Acid? I have noticed over time of using it, that it has a tough time staying in solution (rather low soluability perhaps), and with the heated solution you are able to get it into solution, but after developing it, the print cools enough to allow the recrystalization of Oxalic acid?

What if you soak it in some hot distilled water?

What paper did this happen with?
 
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