A bleach or blix is active as mixed and will carry out its job.
A bleach is active as well.
HOWEVER....... Shaking a blix is not advised as it can oxidize the hypo so this is your call. Shaking a used bleach can reactivate it, but it needs replenishment if it is that far gone.
Further note re: Masking for contrast control - Ctein has made his Post Exposure book free, in PDF form. It's officially out of print so he released it to the web for free. Very nice! It's got a great writeup on masking for contrast control with color printing in it.
I remember Ilfochrome then called Cubachrome and type R prints in the early 80s that took a full minute or more. Kind if nice actually - timing was less critical and dodging and burning easier if time consuming. Just had to make sure the slide had already popped.
I stop my enlarging lens down further if I need more time for color, especially for small 5x7 prints. My lens goes down to f/32 though usually f/11 or f/16 is enough to give me time to work.
OK, next question! What is the life like of the working solution? I mixed up 1 litre of Developer and 1 litre of Blix and have probably used about 500ml in total. This is sitting in reasonably well sealed half full containers, with a squirt of butane.
working solutions will keep for months if well sealed. And even if not well sealed... I've been using some mixed RA-4 RA-RT chemistry from Kodak since last November, in Doran floating-lid tanks, and it's still fine.