Final rinse problems - photoflo

[dancqu]

The ideal is not to have droplets form where they
can leave diposits as the water dries. C

That's where the eight blade film squeegee comes in.
Mine is a Jobo but the same is sold under a few brand
names. A very well engineered squeegee. Film dries fast.
I prefer it to the less expensive Yankee sponge squeegee
which I used for years without problem. Dan

 

[Tim Gray]

Well, just to put a final word in here. It wasn't the hanging clips (metal or wood), it wasn't the photoflo - I've got that down (and had it down for quite a while). To reiterate my process, it dev'd and fixed with chems mixed with distilled water, I did my wash with tap, and then a final rinse with distilled water and about 5 drops of photoflo/8 oz of water. I varied the photo flo up and down (all the way to none) and nothing helped.

Finally moving my non-final washing over to distilled water fixed the problem. Clean clean negs, just like I had before I moved. I'm not quite sure why whatever is in the tap water sticks around the way it does, but at $1/gallon for distilled water, I'm not taking any more chances with my negs.

Thanks for all the ideas.

 

[glbeas]

Do you have filters inline on your wash? If it's something inherent in the water and a fine micron filter leaves it in I would be questioning the municipal water supply about it, it couldn't be good for drinking!

 

[Tim Gray]

Its a new building... I don't have any special filters installed or anything - I was just using the bathroom sink.

Then again, I do recall reading an article about all the pharmaceuticals found in the philadelphia water supply...

 

[kevs]

Hi Tim,

Re: wetting agents. You only need a few drops per tank, enough to allow a few bubbles to form on the surface of the water when you agitate the surface with your fingers - if a thick foam forms, you're using too much wetting agent. I use Ilford Wetting Agent, which may differ from Photoflo.

Re: spots. What film format are you using? I've always experienced water spots on the shiny (non-emulsion) side of my 35mm negs, even using a wetting agent. I think it is minerals in the water. I've even experienced it in Devon, where it's soft tap water.

I've *never* had this issue with 120 film, so i wonder whether it's because most 120 is coated with gelatin on both sides.

In the case of 35mm film, just breathe on the neg and rub it off gently with soft tissue or clean cotton cloth before printing them. It'll be fine.

In my experience, it's better to use a wetting agent than not. If you don't, you risk drying marks on the emulsion side of your negs, which make a permanent mess. Squeegee-ing the negs may eliminate spots but risks scratches and serious damage. So unless you're a press hack and need your negs ten minutes ago, just relax and let nature do the work.

 

[Larry.Manuel]

Two Negative Drying Hints: [#1] I dry mine in a damp shower cabinet, overnight. The slower drying action seems to keep my negatives [120 format] flatter. Quick drying seems to curl them. [#2] sloping the negatives so the water runs to one edge can help reduce spotting. Both hints are from Roger Hicks.

 

[Tim Gray]

I'm developing 35mm, but its not deposits from minerals or something. It's little droplets of some kind of oily material that doesn't really dry. It's very strange.

It's also not the result of too much photoflo.

Thanks for hint #2 Larry. Sounds like a great idea!