Filters with Arista.edu Ultra BW paper

[optique]

Reading the technical insert from this paper, it says that using no filter in the enlarger produces a #2 contrast print. Is this true? (I mean, if you want #2 contrast, use no filter...) I took the filter out and printed, but it seemed to be overexposed, with change in contrast uncertain.

Secondly, doesn't Ilford multigrade vc rc paper require a #2 filter to produce #2 contrast?

Using Beseler 45 with condensor head.

Sorry for the newbie questions.
Thanks.
Steve.

 

[Paul Sorensen]

Reading the technical insert from this paper, it says that using no filter in the enlarger produces a #2 contrast print. Is this true? (I mean, if you want #2 contrast, use no filter...) I took the filter out and printed, but it seemed to be overexposed, with change in contrast uncertain.

Secondly, doesn't Ilford multigrade vc rc paper require a #2 filter to produce #2 contrast?

Using Beseler 45 with condensor head.

Sorry for the newbie questions.
Thanks.
Steve.

Papers will usually be in the range of 2 to 2 1/2 with no filter. The reason you got an overexposed print is that there is about a stop filter factor with the #2 filter versus no filter, so you will need to adjust your exposure if you go without a filter. I usually tell my students that they should always use a filter so that they will not have to worry about the filter factor should they decide to go from a grade 2 to a 3, for example. They should have almost the same paper speed until they get up to about a 3 1/2 or 4.

Edit: I just read your post again, and to make it more clear, you should get approximately the same contrast with a #2 filter or with no filter, but the exposure will take more time with the filter because of light loss due to the filter.

 

[Gerald Koch]

Yes, most VC paper is designed to produce the same contrast as a 2 or 2.5 filter when there is no filtration. Of course you have to use a shorter time than if you actually were using a grade 2 filtration.

BTW, here are two systems for using VC filters. One system uses only yellow and magenta filters. This results in shorter exposures but you must adjust the exposure time any time you make a filter pack adjustment.

The other method uses all three filters, yellow, magenta and cyan. This method results in a constant exposure time but exposures are longer than with the first method.

If this seems strange then think of a filter pack 10Y 30M 10C. Of this 10Y 10M 10C results in a 10 neutral density filter which adjusts the exposure time. In contrast the first method would use only a 20M filter and exposure time would be shorter since there is no neutral density filtration.

 

[srs5694]

Also remember that the exact grade you'll get will vary with your enlarger bulb; if your bulb puts out more blue light compared to another person's bulb, which puts out more green light, the contrasts you'll get will differ. You'll just need to experiment to figure out precisely what you get.

 

[optique]

success!

A big thank you to each of the respondents!

After cutting a #1.5 filter to fit my drawer, I was able to use and see the difference between the 1.5 and 2.0 filters! The landscape shot actually looked better on the 1.5.

This beginner appeciates the help!
Steve.

 

[rwyoung]

And keep in mind that you can also alter the final print, in-camera and during developing. This gives you LOTS (perhaps too much) control. Browse around on this forum and Google for film testing, Zone System and BTZS. It will probably give you a headache. Take two asprin and some fixer and call us in the morning.

OK, don't drink the fixer!

 

[reellis67]

If you happen to use a 4, 4.5, or 5 filter it will require an additional stop of exposure compared to the 00 to 3.5 filters in order to keep the values the same in the print. I usualy make my test print with a #2 filter based on the textured highlights and then adjust contrast accordingly.

- Randy

 

[optique]

And keep in mind that you can also alter the final print, in-camera and during developing. This gives you LOTS (perhaps too much) control. Browse around on this forum and Google for film testing, Zone System and BTZS. It will probably give you a headache. Take two asprin and some fixer and call us in the morning.

OK, don't drink the fixer!

Fixer tastes lousy!

I have read that you can shoot b&w at a different ISO than on the box. For instance, shoot Delta 400 at 200. Does this imply that you have to make a change to development (time or dilution, etc) so the shots will not be all over-exposed? And, can you advise why one would want to do this.

Thanks in advance.
Steve.