film washer

Honestly though, RTFM, or don't be surprised what you get has always been my motto. Why pander to people that won't read manuals?

i got the kodak hypo clearing agent in powder form. theres a stock solution and a working solution. it tells me the stock solution storage life is 3month in a tightly stoppered bottle. and that the working solution keeps for 24 hours in a tray. my question is how long will the working solution keep in a bottle? I don't do any prints, only using this for film.

Shelve It

Rinthe said:

I got the kodak hypo clearing agent ... only using this for film.

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Take the manufacturers word or lack of word for it, HCA is not
needed for film. I doubt they even suggest using it for film or for
that matter RC paper.

dancqu said:

Take the manufacturers word or lack of word for it, HCA is not
needed for film. I doubt they even suggest using it for film or for
that matter RC paper.

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I disagree that it's not needed or harmful, personally. It can also help remove any latent AH dye in the film (that persists even after strong fixing). I'd say it may not be critical if it's not used, but I surely don't think it hurts.

It's not harmful, it's just not necessary. Only the gelatin on RC papers and film hold onto any fixer and this washes out easily. It's the fibers and fiber based papers that hold onto fixer. HCA makes removal from the paper fibers easier. And about the AH dyes, well the only problem, if you want to call it a problem, I've had with residual dyes has been with Kodak's TMax films. These are not AH dyes, they are sensitizing dyes. These will diffuse out with a 5 to 10 minute soak in processing temperature water.

dancqu said:

Take the manufacturers word or lack of word for it, HCA is not
needed for film. I doubt they even suggest using it for film or for
that matter RC paper.

Click to expand...

I find HCA very useful for film, and it is recommended by Kodak. Please see the attached clipping from page 34 of Kodak's Technical Publication J1. It shortens the wash time and gets rid of the annoying halation dye.

I use Ilford's Hypam Fixer.

This is from the instructions:

Washing films
After fixing films are washed to remove the
residual thiosulphate and other by-products of the
process. When a non-hardening fixer has been
used wash the films in running water for 5–10
minutes at a temperature within 5ºC (9ºF) of the
process temperature.
For spiral tank use, when a non-hardening fixer
has been used, the following method of washing is
recommended. This method of washing is faster,
uses less water yet still gives negatives suitable for
long term storage.
After fixing, fill the spiral tank with water at the
same temperature, +/-5ºC (9ºF), as the processing
solutions and invert it five times. Drain the water
away and refill. Invert the tank ten times. Once
more drain the water away and refill.
Finally invert the tank twenty times and drain the
water away.
Washing RC paper
Wash RC papers for 2 minutes in fresh running
water at a temperature above 5ºC (41ºF).
When it is important to obtain a print in the
shortest possible time, vigorously wash RC papers
for 30 seconds in running water.
Washing FB paper
Wash FB papers for 60 minutes in fresh running
water at a temperature above 5ºC (41ºF).
Using ILFORD WASHAID reduces the washing
time thus saving time and water. Wash the prints
for 5 minutes in running water above 5ºC (41ºF),
drain off the excess water and immerse the prints
for 10 minutes in a dish/tray of 1 + 4 WASHAID
at18–24ºC (64–75ºF). Finally, wash the prints for
5 minutes in running water above 5ºC (41ºF).

The only place I see a suggested use of HCA is with fiber paper.

At any rate, this is what I've been using for quite a while.

It's simple & it works for me.

For reference here is a pdf of Hypam:

http://www.darkroom.ru/info/manuals/ilford_hypam_fixer_and_hardener_manual_eng.pdf

Do you need a film washer? I don't use one.

Hope this helps you!

wclark5179 said:

I use Ilford's Hypam Fixer.

This is from the instructions...

The only place I see a suggested use of HCA is with fiber paper....

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But if you look into Ilford's instructions for their Wash Aid, you'll find this:

ILFORD WASHAID
ILFORD WASHAID is a hypo-eliminator formulated
to aid the efficient removal of the thiosulphate byproducts
of fixation by ion exchange. It is
particularly useful in speeding up the washing of
fibre based papers and is designed to be used
with the ILFORD optimum permanence sequences.
It can be used to aid the rapid washing of all
ILFORD films and fibre papers saving both time
and water. It is particularly useful if a hardening
fixer has been used.

You'll find the whole file here:

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2006130214472102.pdf

Thanks.

I'm still going to follow the hypam instructions. It is not a hardening fixer.

Have a nice holiday.

Appreciate the point to the pdf on Washaid.

Rinthe said:

i got the kodak hypo clearing agent in powder form. theres a stock solution and a working solution. it tells me the stock solution storage life is 3month in a tightly stoppered bottle. and that the working solution keeps for 24 hours in a tray. my question is how long will the working solution keep in a bottle? I don't do any prints, only using this for film.

Click to expand...

mix up your HCA into a stock solution and keep it in a stoppered bottle, dilute the stock solution into a working solution, use it once and then dump it.