film to test an old camera?

[srmcnamara]

so this is probably a question that I will answer myself but sometimes it helps to think out loud to people who aren't really listening.


So anyways, I just purchased a less than optimal condition super ricohflex and after much disassembly and reassembly I've got it in something of a working condition and now I want to put a roll or two through it.

My Thoughts:
-I want to use b&w because I'm not certain where I'd get c-41 processed.
-I should use something unforgiving like Pan-F+ so that I can really tell if the exposure's off.
-I should use something that I'm used to like FP-4+ that I am familiar with.
-I should use something faster because that's probably what I will be using in the future.

My main goals are to determine whether the two lenses are focusing properly, what the exposure is like and overall how usable the camera is.

I'm not really out for perfect results with this camera, more so "interesting" results if that makes any sense.



Thanks!

 

[Steve Smith]

-I should use something that I'm used to like FP-4+ that I am familiar with.

That one. Just because you know what to expect.


Steve.

 

[archphoto]

If you want to test lens-resolution you take the finest grain film, for general testing I would use the FP-4+.

Peter

 

[Mike Kennedy]

You know,after I've worked on a camera,or purchased a new/old model I always run a roll of color film through it.Then have it processed at my local pro lab.That eliminates any error I might get in processing (B&W).

 

[Ektagraphic]

I have been testing cameras with some 12exp rolls of Kodak Gold and I have just brought them to CVS simply to prove the camera works before I do anything serious with it.

 

[fotch]

-"I should use something that I'm used to like FP-4+ that I am familiar with."

Least expensive. You can examine on anything out of the ordinary. Gives the most flexibility.

 

[Sirius Glass]

-"I should use something that I'm used to like FP-4+ that I am familiar with."

Least expensive. You can examine on anything out of the ordinary. Gives the most flexibility.

What he and Steve Smith said.

Steve

 

[MattKing]

I usually:

1) shoot a roll of B&W (outdated and/or J & C 200) so I can develop it and check for really obvious problems, like film advance failures and badly sticking shutters or apertures; and
2) if the B&W indicates usable results, invest in a roll of E6 transparency film and processing, to check the accuracy of apertures and shutter speeds and, if there is one, the meter.

I always use a hand meter in incident mode, and choose representative subjects.

On at least one of those rolls, using a tape measure and some coloured paper I photograph a fence outside my home that serves as a check on rangefinders or distance settings.

Be sure to take the camera out into the sun and let it be exposed to bright light from a variety of directions - that will help check for light leaks.

Matt

 

[DWThomas]

I think Matt has a good procedure. I recently ran a two years out of date half roll of PlusX through a Canon F-1 having no real idea what condition it was in. I had replaced the light seals which were crumbling, but the test disclosed some apparent shutter curtain bounce. No point in running a 36 exp roll of Ektar and paying for lab processing to find that out!

DaveT

 

[Denis K]

In my opinion the two biggest problems that you are likely to encounter with old non-metered cameras are 1) light leaks, and 2) shutter problems with the lower shutter speeds.

The film you use is probable less important than just running it through all of the different shutter speeds. You could leave the camera out in strong sunlight for a long time at one frame number to test for light leaks, although you might need to reseat the back a few times to prove it isn't intermittent.

Put the shutter in the Bulb (B) setting and open the shutter to see the aperture stop and move the aperture control across its range to see if it is working nominally. If your old camera has any coupled auto-exposure functions then you're on you own.

For focus, a lot of people place a short piece of scotch tape across the film plane to simulate a ground glass screen. Then open the shutter in Bulb mode and sight an object at infinity. It works better to find an obvious problem than it does to prove that focus is exactly correct.

This is some of the things I do. I wish you well. Remember you will never fix them all and sometimes I think it is easier and cheaper to move on. Furthermore, if you have a real basket case, consider getting another one of the same kind. Then you will already have a parts camera to fall back on when the new one has a problem. It's like doubling down when you purchase a stock and it goes against you.

Denis K

 

[mgb74]

I try to verify as much as I can "pre-film", then do the process Matt described. However, I don't bother with the E6 step unless it's a camera to be used for serious work. I compare the meter reading on the camera to my handheld Minolta meter against a blank wall (to minimize differences caused by angle of view), but recognize that a 1 stop difference is not unusual. I do bracket my exposures 2 stops over and under to evaluate shutter.

I use a bio-mechanical tester (my thumb and my ear) to make sure the film advance seems ok.

Obviously you need to keep good frame-by-frame notes.