Roger Hicks
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Dear John,I'm not sure that DBI would be practical with today's 35mm or roll film. What safe light is useable? These films are pretty small to assess under dim light and high speed film may be ruled out altogether.
So, as has been said already, it seems a matter of "horses for courses".
Regards
John
Thanks Roger.Dear John,
Many, I believe, use night vision goggles with an IR source. Nit much use with IR films but OK (I am told) with most other things.
On the other hand, it does require a lot of experience and practice. When I tried it with Ilford Ortho Plus (where of course you can use a deep red safelight) I found it difficult.
Given that Tim wants to use 5x7, though, this might be a VERY worthwhile route for him to investigate, with Ortho Plus...
Cheers,
R.
The things I have taken from this thread are:
1) in order for any system to work for a photographer (including me) the photographer must understand it well, and be familiar with its inherent assumptions and peculiarities;
2) different systems will better suit some temperaments and approaches;
3) a method and a consistent approach, well understood and well suited to the strengths of the particular photographer, will help the photographer realize the most from his/her creativity; and
4) if your system of choice isn't working for you, make sure first that you are understanding it properly, and applying it properly, and if so, and it's still not working for you, consider trying something new.
As I thought about the BTZS as being math heavy, which turns some people off, it occured to me that if someone knows the basics, has the Viewfinder Store do the testing for paper and film, and uses the Plam Piolt Program and know how to meter and input the correct numbers the math behind the program is far less important. The program should provide the exposure and development tiimes.
Do I understand correctly?
You have someone else test the film and developer for you?
Presumably you shoot the film, then send it, unprocessed, to them? With your developer and a gallon of your local water? Then the same with the prints? Along with your developer?
I'm not being funny. I'm just confused. How much of your own personal testing of materials can someone else do for you?
Cheers,
R.
Thanks for the info David.I haven't used this service, but as I understand it, you process the film and paper exposed with step tablets, and they read the step tablets with a densitometer and send you the results, which can be plugged into the BTZS software.
David
There is an old saying,"don't knock it if you haven't tried it". It works fine.Do I understand correctly?
You have someone else test the film and developer for you?
Presumably you shoot the film, then send it, unprocessed, to them? With your developer and a gallon of your local water? Then the same with the prints? Along with your developer?
I'm not being funny. I'm just confused. How much of your own personal testing of materials can someone else do for you?
Cheers,
R.
I haven't used this service, but as I understand it, you process the film and paper exposed with step tablets, and they read the step tablets with a densitometer and send you the results, which can be plugged into the BTZS software.
David
Do I understand correctly?
You have someone else test the film and developer for you?
Presumably you shoot the film, then send it, unprocessed, to them? With your developer and a gallon of your local water? Then the same with the prints? Along with your developer?
I'm not being funny. I'm just confused. How much of your own personal testing of materials can someone else do for you?
Cheers,
R.
There is an old saying,"don't knock it if you haven't tried it". It works fine.
You tell them what film you want to use, they expose the film to a step wedge and send the film to you. IN your own lab you develope the films with your chosen developer. Complete processing as you would any film and then return film to them. They read and plot the information and return findings to you. Works great, no muss , no fuss
From what I understand the View Finder store (local company) will test both film and paper, I dont know all of the details but it seems you send the paper and film you use, they expose it using a step wedge and return to you for development and then you send the paper or film back to View Finder Store who reads the negative or paper densities. I think BTZS testing tests materials outside the camera, I guess the assumstion is that your shutter and light meter are within tolerance.
It's actually The View Camera Store, one of our sponsors, that provides this service.
It's actually The View Camera Store, one of our sponsors, that provides this service.
Yes, it is the View Camera Store that provides this service.
I recommend the service as a one-shot initiation in to the world of BTZS, to show a person some of its potential, as it were. However, if you really hope make full use of the full power of the BTZS system you will have to put in the time and become familar with the assumptions and concepts that support the system, and investing in a densitometer (or adapting a spot meter) is recommended. If you don't care to seriously invest the time in the system in the long run you would be better off, IMO, just using the massive film develoment chart. In photograhy, as in other areas of life, a little knowledge is often more dangerous than total ignorance.
Sandy King
I can vouch for the result of Wm Blunt's work. I have three of his prints from his School House series hanging next to my desk. Terrific.
Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages,...
And this is very useful because there are definitely conditions that are better suited to one or the other of the two systems. For the most part, however, neither system is any more complicated or simple than the other, and regardless of which system one choses to use, the most important decisions we have to make are still creative decisions based on how we want our tonal values to look on the final print.
Sandy King
I am in the process of trying to do some film tests according to the Zone System in 35mm. I think understand the concept - Find the correct film speed that gives you detail in Zone 3, then find the development time that gives you good detail in Zone 8.
Thanks again,
Tim
I guess the assumstion is that your shutter and light meter are within tolerance.
Food for thought:
Andreas Feininger in his book on Darkroom which covers developing negatives states that with a properly exposed negative you should be be able to read newsprint though the denses part of the neagative, and see details when looking though the thinnest part of the negative. I just check a few of my 4X5 and 6X9negatives and he is right. Any thoughts?
I think these words by Sandy King should be chiseled on granite and hung in the Photography Hall of Fame between the Ansel Adams Wing and the Phil Davis Wing, so that all who enter either wing must read them.
Allen
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