film testing

[ElectricLadyland]

Hi, I have just shot and developed a roll of film at a bunch of different film speeds. I exposed the shots at 2 stops under, and thought that I would just look at the negatives and see which film speed gave the best density for shadow areas. However, I really don't know what the proper density for zone 3ish tone shadows looks like, and so I am having trouble deciding on a film speed for my film/developer. Is there any way to look at a negative and decide which film speed gave the best density? Can anyone post an example of a zone 3 exposed negative?

 

[raucousimages]

Man is that a loaded question on this site. If you can get 100 answers everyone will agree on only one thing, that the other 99 are wrong.

I suggest that you print your best 8x10 of each density and you decide what you like the most. After printing show them to others and get their opinion. It is hard to do this onlind due to the differences in out internet services and monitors. I have looked at my own site in horror on a few other monitors but it looks good from mine.

 

[Bruce Watson]

The general rule of thumb is that Zone I should be at 0.1D above filmbase + fog. For a film on a hazy gray base like 5x4 Tri-X, that makes the Zone I density about 0.2.

I don't know how you'll manage to measure that by eye. While the eye is quite good at making comparisons, it's very bad at making a direct value judgement of density. I suspect you'll have to track down a densitometer, or start printing as the previous poster said.

 

[Jim Noel]

Make a proper proof print at your normal size of each negative. This means do a test strip to find the minimum time for the edge to be as black as your paper and developer allow. This should be done at grade 2 or 3, most people will say grade 2 only, but there are many good printers who expose for grade 3. Dry the test strip prior to evaluation. Make prints with no burning or dodging on them.

WHen dry,find the one which gives you shadows the way you want them. This is your film speed.

Next look at your important highlights. If they are too gray your development time needs to be increased. If burnt out, your development time needs to be shortened.

 

[Paul Howell]

Do you have access to a densitormer? If you don't have access, I don't, I use a method that was taught to me by the sergeant in charge of the Air Force photo unit I was assigned to in the early 70s. This method is more complex than most but it has always worked for me. I set up a test scene in which I create both high lights and shadows with a person standing with a gray card, I include a large swath of both black and white fabric. I shoot the test scene from ISO 25 to 3200.

Before I develop the test roll I test my paper with a kodak projection test scale. I use it as a step wedge. I expose a number to sheets starting at 2 seconds and increase the time by 4 seconds, I record the time on the back of each test with a pencil. So I have a test at 2 seconds, 6, 10,14,18.22.26,30. I use grade 2 paper for my condenser head and grade 3 for my cold light. I set the enlarger up with a clear strip of film to compensate for base fog and the hight so that light is about the size of my contact page or 8X10. I develop in my standard paper developer for 2 mints. What I am looking for is a test print that gives me max black and good separation, the test strip should look like the zone system's 10 zones. Once I find the time that gives the best black and separation I may adjust the time with the 4 second block and the paper development time to give a cripst white in zone IX and X.

Then I contact print my test roll or sheets. I print the contact sheet at the same I used for my test print. Wash and dry then look for the shadow details. Find the exposure that gives you what you think is good zone III then look at the highlights. If the high lights are blown out you need to decrease development time, if muddy increase the development time. I run a second roll of film using the ISO I chose and in dark room cut the film in the strips of 7 or 8 negatives and develop each strip either increasing the time or decreasing the time in 10% increments and then contact print these test rolls until you get zone III shadow detail and zone VIII/IV high lights. You should be able to take that negative and print it at the same time you exposed the contact sheet and get a good working 8X10 print.

You can save your self a lot time using a desnitomer. With a desnitormer looking for Zone III is subjective.

 

[Gerald Koch]

Hi, I have just shot and developed a roll of film at a bunch of different film speeds. I exposed the shots at 2 stops under, and thought that I would just look at the negatives and see which film speed gave the best density for shadow areas.

What you want in the shadow areas is detail not mere density. Look at the shadow areas and see if you are getting the amount of detail that you want. If so then the film is getting the proper amount of exposure for your pupose.

 

[Donald Miller]

If you want, I would be willing to read the density on your film at no cost. Send me PM if you would find this helpful.

 

[ElrodCod]

Pick up a copy of Fred Pickers book...The Zone VI Workshop and follow the instructions for the film speed and developement time test carefully. That'll get you in the ballpark.

 

[Paul Howell]

This was mentioned in another thread, have you used it and what comes in the kit?

 

[BBarlow690]

Paul, I saw the other thread first, and posted a detailed reply there. I won't be redundant here, I do that enough in real life.

Thanks,

BB