They will typically recommend reducing development time by around 15% for condenser enlarging. But 15% overdevelopment would not bring you down to a #00 filter. Something strange here.
The negative certainly doesn't look underexposed. It looks fairly dense and contrasty. I'll have to read your post again, but I'm not clear on the specifics of this speed test methodology or the procedure you used for a maximum black time. I am also puzzled by what seems (to me) to be a very short "maximum black" time.
And just to go back a little to make sure, are you saying applying these procedures with Tri-X resulted in much different results when printing? Did you do the same type of test with Tri-X?
I'm missing something here.
The negative certainly doesn't look underexposed. It looks fairly dense and contrasty. I'll have to read your post again, but I'm not clear on the specifics of this speed test methodology or the procedure you used for a maximum black time. I am also puzzled by what seems (to me) to be a very short "maximum black" time.
Kenton, the scanned negative looks fine. It may even be a bit flat. I believe you are misinterpreting the printing results. I don't know why you are trying to tie in exposure with contrast. If the negative has some extra density, print it down. There is no set relationship between negative density and print density. Forget the just black test. You are confusing yourself. Take a step back. Now, just do a test strip. See how the image changes with exposure. Pick what appears closest to what you think is natural, then make a print at that setting.
I've inverted the negative and darkened the image some. You have a very usable negative.
View attachment 62969
I did a few test strips. With a #2 filter I ended up with 10 seconds at f/22, which resulted in nice blacks. Thats the main issue. I shouldn't have to close down that far to get a decent shadow area out of a negative, off an incident reading in shade.
The 10 seconds at f/22 with a #2 filter is a function of your enlarger light source, not the film, exposure or development.
It is just too bright for this size of print (unless you are printing in volume).
Hmmm, maybe I'll try a lamp dimmer switch.
What do you mean by, "printing in volume"?
Thanks,
Is this an appropriate time to emphasis the critical evaluation issue? Bumper sticker idea: Know your Theory!
if you could show us a photograph of theory, now, that would be something.
I would love to see you all in action taking photos. It would be great to see this, it would be a wonderful way to learn from each other. Certainly far better than reading books or writting about it.
There are always situation where one is off from the so called ideal line. By mistake or because one is forced to from the situation. The knowledge or skill should be there to master those situations.
However striving to get it going in the right direction would help in the long run.
Maybe Adams got fed up with all the work in the darkroom that he wanted to perfect his work.
Besides when I see videos of Adams he seems to be a jovial person, so that, well he may let things slip here and there. My sympathetic feeling I get listening to him.
Every successful photograph I make shows theory. Isn't that the foundation of your defence of the Zone System? The quality of Ansel Adams' work is proof of the theory.
Are you reading the first or second version?
Concerning exposure and film speed theory, can you outline some of the issues? Do you have trouble with how he frames the various historical methods and their underlying principles/assumptions? Fractional gradient? Or is it his method for an in-camera test for "effective EI"? Etc.?
Light falloff and the possible effects on in-camera testing with contacted step wedges had also occurred to me when I first read Howard Bond's article on film reciprocity failure. In my own in-camera EI testing it had previously never even occurred to me to use a step tablet in the camera.
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