Film Processing Quirks

[Yoricko]

1) Is there any adverse effects if I process my film at temperatures much higher than 24 degrees Celsius?

2) Can't seem to get rid of the purple tint of my Tri-X negatives. I Thought it was normal at first, only noticed it when an experienced lecturer pointed it out. I know this purple problem purple haze thing has been going on for a long time now with the new Tri-x and TMax, but all the answers are very unclear and vague.

Could you readers tell me what worked for you or what do you normally do for your processing to get rid of the 'purple problem, purple haze'. ---

- Presoaking
- Sodium Carbonate (Washing Soda) Presoak/Wash
- Use of HCA (Perma Wash)
- Use of distilled water for processing
- Much vigorous agitation during wash/rinse
- Extended wash times
- Different Developer and Fixer combination
- Fresh Fixer
- Extended Fixing time for TX/TMax films
- Sunning for a day or two (!)

I've tried some experiments (separately) like purchasing and using some HCA, extending fixing time, and presoaking. But there was no obvious differences. Never did try to do all of them at once; maybe it'll work, I don't know. Trying to find out the source of this 'purple problem'

My recent standard procedure goes like this:
- Chill all chemicals and water used to 28 degrees C (due to difficulty to keep/get chilled water/cooling).
- Two rolls/reels | Paterson 4 Tank
- No presoak
- HC-110 (Dilution H, 1:63, 10ml syrup to 630ml water | Not recycled). 6mins 30seconds, 4 inversions for 30 seconds to start and one inversion every minute thereafter
- Stop: Water Rinse, 30 seconds
- Ilford Rapid Fixer (1:4, working solution not kept more than 2 months, recycled up to 3 times [4]), 5mins. Agitate 20 inversions for 30seconds to start and 4 inversions every 30 seconds thereafter
- Wash: Ilford Rinse (5 inversions, 10 inversions, 20 inversions)
- Running Water 10-15 mins
- Photofol 1:300 (or a few droplets). Agitate 30 seconds continuously

2.2) Does the purple affect printing on VC/Multigrade Papers?

3) How long does it take for film to dangerously swell up in water?

 

[tkamiya]

If you process your film at too-high temperature, the emulsion gets soft and can be scratched easily. On both films you mentioned, the film base does have a bit of bluish, purplish tint to it. If that's what you are talking about, that is the way it is. If you are talking about pinkish color on Tmax400, then pre-washing it takes it off some, and at each stage, color comes off, including final wash. I don't recall seeing this problem on Tri-X but it has been a while.

How long is your wash cycle? I do mine for 10 minutes and almost all of pink stuff comes off way before half way through.

 

[Yoricko]

Wow, that was really quick.

Does the film harden up again after it dries, or will it stay soft?

 

[tkamiya]

I have not experimented with extreme temperatures, so I don't know. Highest I've ever done was 24C. I would think, once it dries up, it is going to be OK but it'll be really easy to damage it during processing.

How high are you talking about? According to Kodak, any temp above 24C is not recommended. Besides the softness issue, the development time will get too short. Kodak recommends at least 5 minutes of dev time for even processing. The person you really want to talk to is "Photo Engineer". He is a former Kodak engineer and a really helpful guy. Hopefully, he'll come to this thread soon with definitive answers.

 

[Wade D]

In the summer I have processed film at up to 27C in a pinch. Not recommended and the emulsion will swell and be much more prone to damage when wet. Once dry the film will be fine. At high temps I have to use a diluted developer for a long enough processing time. IE D-76 1:1 instead of straight. Again high temp development is not recommended. The chemicalss tend to react differently at higher temps which can affect the contrast of the film. Adequate washing will remove any anti halation backing. The slight blue or green color of the film base should not be a problem with VC papers when printing.

 

[BetterSense]

I have developed lots of film (most in Diafine) at 28C, which was just the ambient temperature of my darkroom in the summer. I had no problem with Kodak Tri-X and Tmax films.

 

[Ian Grant]

From April until about September, sometimes October I have to work at round 26-27°C, that's the water temperature although the ambient temperature might be higher.

Thew disadvantages of higher temperatures are there's greater potential for grain clumping (micro reticulation) if there's deviation between the temperatures of the various stages, dev, stop/rinse, fixing and subsequent washing. However keep the variations tight to +/- 1°C and there's no issues, in practice that's remarkably easy if your working to tap water temperature, I find it harder when back in the UK in the winter

Some films are more prone than most to temperature shocks, Tmax 400 and particularly Neopan 400, so need most care, but tight control regardless of the chosen temperature helps minimise grain anyway.

The purple dye is mainly destroyed during fixing, so extending it slightly may help, try doubling the time, and a longer wash helps as well.

Ian

 

[Hal Reiser]

Processing at a higher temperature is not necessary to remove the anihalation layer. First of all even if you do not remove all of it and have a tint to the negatives it does not affect printing them in any way.

Extending you fixer times and thorough washing will remove the the tint. I have found in my case using Perma Wash helps with the process though I imagine any HCA will do just as well.


Hal