Film Holders, best practices.

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laser

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One of the challenges in using sheet film is making images that are free of dirt shadows. Manufacturers take great care in providing sheet films free of dirt. Photographers typically subject film to a much dirtier environment than the film factory. As a result, processed film commonly has shadow images that require retouching on the films or prints to hide them.


To reduce shadow images I suggest procedures to follow based on clean-room best practices, my film manufacturing experience, my experience as a sheet film user, and from observing the practices of many photographers who are admired by the readers of this site.


Film handling environment: comfortable room temperatures 65-85F is fine. Deviations are not particularly troublesome. Relative humidity 30-50%. Deviations can be more susceptible to static electricity. Slowly separating sheets can minimize static discharge.


Air flow: Select a dark area with low air flow. Turning off fans for 10 minutes before loading film to allow airborne particles to settle.


Work surface: clean the counter surface and surfaces above the work surface with a moist, clean cloth a half hour before loading.


Conscientious film manufacturers (this excludes those who show videos of furry cats wandering in their film manufacturing facilities) take a great deal of care to make sure you film is free of contaminants. You can assume the film as sold is free of dirt that will degrade your images. You are probably opening the film packaging in a much dirtier environment than the film factory.



Sheet Film holders:

Film holders are the most likely source of dirt that deposits on the film surface during exposure. Consider their design and typical use. Each time the dark-slide is inserted and removed from the holder it passes through a tight light-lock that captures and releases dirt particles. Freed particles can deposit on the film that will cause shadows during exposure. I suggest you wipe off both sides of the dark-slide with a clean, soft brush each time it is inserted into the film holder.


Inspect the dark-slide and the interior of the holder and remove any visible particles. Wiping of the dark-slide before inserting into the camera back is another worthwhile step. The less dirt that accumulates in the light trap the better.


Loading Film Holders

Don’t lean over the film or holders while you are working. Loose hair, eye lashes, and other particles can drop onto the film. Stand erect with your arms extended a little.


Use a recently cleaned work surface with three separate areas: an area for uncleaned holders, a work area, and an area to stack the clean holders.

1. Use a clean soft brush to remove any dust. When brushing have the holder lower than the film loading work surface, brush way from the worksurface. Before opening the slide, brush the dark-slide while it is closed in the holder

2. Remove the dark-slide and clean both sides. With the silver side out, reinsert 1 ½-inches.

3. Open the flap and brush out the film holder. Inspect the interior of each holder and remove any foreign matter.

4. Set the holder aside far enough away so that airborne dust from cleaning will not land on the dark-slide or holders.

5. Prepare up to 5 holders in a batch.




Opening the factory sealed film package in the dark:

1. Cut seal with a sharp object. Don’t crudely tear it, this will create loose particles.

2. In the dark open the box. Don’t depend on the interior wrapping to be lighttight. There can be unintended pinholes or tears in the interior wrap. This shouldn’t happen but there is no reason to take a chance.

3. Remove the interior wrapped film from the box.

4. In the dark, carefully cut the wrap with a sharp object preserving as much of the wrap as possible.

5. Remove the film and place it on a clean work surface emulsion up.

6. Set the wrap on top of the inner section of the box for later use.

7. Load the sheets holding the film only touching the edges.

8. Close each dark-slide after each sheet is loaded.

9. If some sheets are not loaded reinsert them into the barrier wrap, fold the wrap and place in the original box. Do not put the film in the paper box without the wrap. Cardboard is inherently dirty. Fiber can deposit on the film’s surface.


After loading:

Place the holders into new individual seal-able plastic bags.

Store the bagged holders in a clean sturdy carrier i.e. ammunition boxes.


Exposure

Remove the holder from the plastic bag.

Tap the bottom edge of the holder (as it will be exposed) on a firm surface to dislodge particles

Brush and inspect the dark-slide surface.

Insert in camera.

Pull dark-slide and make exposure.

Brush off both sides of the dark-slide, inspect, insert in the holder.

After exposures are made return holder to its baggy and container.

www.makingKODAKfilm.com
 

Vaughn

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Good working methods! Or do the best one can do under one's sleeping bag high in the Trinity Alps...or even when not high. (The below image is a dirty example! 4x5 back in the late 70s...still had a lot to learn...still have a lot to learn!)

A possible additions to step 2: Insert darkslide with only one corner several times along the length of the opening before inserting its full width (pushes out trapped dust). Then insert darkslide until it is just visible in the image area. Tap the side of the holder a couple times with the brush to loosen any dust.

"Tap the bottom edge of the holder (as it will be exposed) on a firm surface to dislodge particles" Be careful with some holders -- specifically older wood holders (my issue was with 11x14s). The film can slip down into the flap area when tapping the holders vertically. Squeeze the flap area when tapping to prevent this. I tap onto the heel of my hand.
 

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Peter Schrager

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I think I cleaned my holders 10 years ago
This kind of over thinking just prevents you from making pictures
If you're so inclined get a portable pump/pressure machine and blow 'em out
Make sure you get the traps ...that's where the dust hides.
Zip lock bags are your friend
Check every 5 years for dust!
 
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laser

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If you use dirty holders buy plenty of spotting colors. The problem with spotting dyes is that they age differently than the image. I have seen many aged images (prints and transparencies) with dye areas that are very different from the image. This degrades the image.

There was an alternative to the needed cleaning. That was the 1980's Polaroid's 4x5 packets with Fujichrome, followed by Kodak Readyload, and then Fuji's QUICKLOAD. I managed KODAK's READYLOAD program through the development process and introduction. These products from the three manufacturers all produced very clean films in a compact package. The rational, designing and making the holder and packets is another story too long for here.

The other rather obvious alternative is 120-size roll film. The image is smaller but the films are very clean. Kodak and Fuji produce very clean films in rolls and 135 magazines. They apply sophisticated processes to make sure the 135 light leak material is very clean, free of loose threads, the lips are parallel, and the pressure on the film is "just right, not too tight , not too loose". Hand-spooling can't equal the quality. The user's needs will determine if it is worth it or not.
 
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laser

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When you clean holders routinely it takes less time than spotting a print and the results are much better.
 

Wayne

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Some people use anti-static bags like those used for electronics
 

ic-racer

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I vacuum film holders before placing the film in them each time. I have never been able to 'spot out' any marks from dust and hair on unexposed negatives.
 

JWMster

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Well.... I cleaned out all the new-to-me film holders thoroughly this weekend as step one. I'm not expecting to do this more than once every blue moon.... unless there's a "clear and present and OBVIOUS danger". Maybe that understates it. But air blow cans are pretty efficient. Thanks for posting this. Belt and suspenders is a solid approach to life. Conservative... but conservative usually aims to avoid disappointment. Something in that.
 

ciniframe

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Might use regular film some day but for now the only thing I feed my 4X5 is photo paper. For some reason dust doesn’t seem to be a problem even with casual cleaning of holders. By the time I get ready to use B&W film at $1 per shot current minimum I’ll hopefully have procedures down to not waste too much film.
 

Rick A

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I have an electrostatic air cleaner running continually in my darkroom. I brush and blow out my film holders prior to loading, unused holders are stowed in a sealed Tupperware box.
 

Alan Gales

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I vacuum film holders before placing the film in them each time.

I do the same. I put the vacuum out in the hall and close the bedroom door as much as possible with only the hose and attachment coming in. I may be anal but at least the vacuum doesn't stir up any dust in the bedroom (I don't have a darkroom, just a large Harrison tent).

A clean room like Drew Wiley has would really be nice.
 

Vaughn

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I have not vacuumed a film holder in 35 years. I dust each one with a brush before reloading. Definitely not anal about it, but not sloppy either. Of course now that I only contact print (alt processes), black spots do not show up much.

I did photograph in Yosemite with an 11x14 camera that had a long hair stuck in the camera back -- every neg had the same long curly hair in it.

Edited to add a PS -- I live in a cool damp climate...I can probably get away with things that would be tough to do in a dry high-static environment.
 
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Andrew O'Neill

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I always give my film loading area a wipe down with damp cloth. All holders are cleaned with tack cloth. If the area (my darkroom) is dry (rarely), I'll run hot water to bring the humidity up.
That's it.
When working in the field, it's more challenging. The interior of pup tent is wiped down with damp sponge (I keep one in a ziplock bag). Tack cloth comes in handy for wiping holders.
 
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I load filmholders on a darkroom counter. My darkroom has filtered air. I run the air filter for some hours beforehand and then turn it off. I have a dedicated small vacuum cleaner with a hepa filter that I use to vacuum the workspace and filmholders. I vacuum the outsides of the holders first then pull the slides and vacuum the insides. I then vacuum both sides of the slide and insert it through the light trap a time or two with the vacuum nozzle right underneath to catch any dislodged dust. Clean holders go in a stack under a clean ZipLoc. These sit for a while to let things settle. Often, I'll run the hot water a bit to get some humidity in the air. Humidity is your friend and the enemy of dust.

When loading, I place the stack of film, together with the bottom cardboard divider, emulsion-side-down. I grab a holder and pull the slide halfway. I then take a sheet of film from the top of the stack, turn it vertically and tap its end a time or two on the countertop some distance from the holder. I then turn the sheet emulsion-side-up and load it quickly into the holder. I feel for the code notch and pull up lightly on each corner to make sure the film is under the guide rails. Then I close the darkslide. Starting with the film emulsion-side-down reduces the time the emulsion surface is exposed to airborne dust. My sheets are only exposed for a few seconds.

After loading, each holder gets its own clean ZipLoc bag. Old bags go to the kitchen, garage or wherever to be repurposed.

When shooting, I pull a holder from its bag and check for dust. It is always there, regardless of the care taken beforehand, so I dust the outside of the holder, especially the outside surface of the darkslide. Keeping the inside of the camera clean and dust-free is important too, and a challenge when working in the field.

I really try to avoid unloading and reloading in the field. I carry 50 holders when on a road trip. If I need to reload, I'll find a motel room with a windowless bathroom and work there.

And, no matter how careful I am, there's always that expanse of sky with a black speck in it... I've learned to spot negatives and to etch prints. Which I choose depends on the size of the spot.

Best,

Doremus
 

jim10219

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I vacuum film holders before placing the film in them each time. I have never been able to 'spot out' any marks from dust and hair on unexposed negatives.
Ditto. I vacuum my film holder when I see dirt on them. I load film in a changing bag, which stay pretty clean, but can be vacuumed too if necessary. I keep the changing bag away from my other gear that goes out into the field. I unload film in my darkroom, which is always pretty clean anyway. And I store my film holders, whether they have film in them or not, in gallon sized Ziploc bags. Usually 6 to a bag. That's pretty much it. The only time I have issues with dirt or scratches is when I send my film out to be processed. I fixed that problem by switching labs though.
 

Kilgallb

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I worked for a few weeks at an Intel clean room. They told me one way to prevent a lot of dust is take drink of water. We had to drink a cup of water before we entered. We also had to clean our eyeglasses.
 

Kodachromeguy

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I worked for a few weeks at an Intel clean room. They told me one way to prevent a lot of dust is take drink of water. We had to drink a cup of water before we entered. We also had to clean our eyeglasses.
This is interesting. Why drink water? Does it reduce dry skin flakes? And the eyeglasses: do they carry eyebrow dandruff?

The professional clean room was surely in a new building. I expect that most of us in normal homes are battling fabric and paper lint, floor dust, cooking film (especially with "open concept" houses), wood dust from house flex, and pet dander if Fido lives indoors. It is a real challenge.
 

grahamp

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It is amazing how much crud can accumulate on a pair of glasses in a day. Not just from the wearer, but also from the environment in general.

The main trick with film holders is once you find a method for keeping them clean, keep them in a bag unless you are using them. I vacuum them every so often, and use a manual blower bulb if I do not have a vacuum handy. Loading and unloading is done in the darkroom, as that space is more humid than the main house, and small enough that a HEPA filter air cleaner and vacuum cleaner keeps the worst at bay. But my conditions are not very demanding - no desert, pets, forced air heating, or construction.
 

Kilgallb

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This is interesting. Why drink water? Does it reduce dry skin flakes? And the eyeglasses: do they carry eyebrow dandruff?

The professional clean room was surely in a new building. I expect that most of us in normal homes are battling fabric and paper lint, floor dust, cooking film (especially with "open concept" houses), wood dust from house flex, and pet dander if Fido lives indoors. It is a real challenge.
Lots of crud from breathing, so a drink reduces that.

Glasses are filled with skin flakes.

When I worked on projector design we analyzed dust in failed units and found most dust was skin flakes, about 90%.
 
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