Fill in flash

Death's Shadow

A
Death's Shadow

  • 1
  • 1
  • 36
Friends in the Vondelpark

A
Friends in the Vondelpark

  • 1
  • 0
  • 67
S/S 2025

A
S/S 2025

  • 0
  • 0
  • 67
Street art

A
Street art

  • 1
  • 0
  • 61
20250427_154237.jpg

D
20250427_154237.jpg

  • 2
  • 0
  • 84

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
197,450
Messages
2,759,312
Members
99,374
Latest member
llorcaa
Recent bookmarks
0

benjiboy

Subscriber
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Messages
11,947
Location
U.K.
Format
35mm
I would appreciate any advice you could give me guys on using flash for filling the shadows (synchro sunlight ) for outdoor portraits with between the lens shutters. I know the shutters will sync at any speed, but what is the best way to balance the flash with the ambient daylight ? I use a Mamiya C330Fs with 55, 80,135, 180mm lenses with a Metz 45CT1 flash which has 5 computer apertures and manual.

I am trying to get the lighting right to achieve a 1:2 or 1:4 contrast ratio on the subject, and still retain a correctly exposed backgtound.
 
Joined
Dec 12, 2004
Messages
2,360
Location
East Kent, U
Format
Medium Format
Set camera for correct exposure of directly lit background. Set flashgun to one stop LARGER than the stop you are actually using for 2:1 ratio or two stops LARGER for 4:1 fill (flashgun set to, for example, f8 outputs half as much light as when set to f11 for same film speed). As you are using leaf-shutter lenses, any speed can be used with electronic flash.

Regards,

David
 

Blighty

Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2004
Messages
914
Location
Lancaster, N
Format
Multi Format
I use a couple of techniques for different lighting conditions. The one described above by David is the best one to use if you're shooting with the sun behind the subject. Simply meter on the background, transfer the reading to your C330 and then set your flash one stop wider (if your camera is set to f8, set your flash to f5.6). The other technique I use is for when the light is falling across the subject, one half in shadow the other in full sunlight. Take an incident reading towards the light source (the sun?) and set this on your camera. Again, set your flash one stop wider, as in the previous example. This gives you beautiful, well exposed highlights and also picks out the shadows.
 

celeborn

Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2005
Messages
21
Format
Medium Format
Thanks for asking the question and thanks for the extremely useful answer.
 

Bighead

Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2005
Messages
471
Format
Medium Format
I agree with everything above.. I usually set it 2 stops higher though... Just my personal preference... I may be compensating for something else I am not doing properly, but it works.
 

Woolliscroft

Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2004
Messages
726
Format
Multi Format
Bighead said:
I agree with everything above.. I usually set it 2 stops higher though... Just my personal preference... I may be compensating for something else I am not doing properly, but it works.

Me too. I find only leaving a one stop gap can look rather artificial. That said I might tend to slightly overexpose the lit parts of back lit subjects, to show that they are back lit. Only a fraction (third to half a stop), but somehow it looks more natural and it brings the filled area up a bit too.

David.
 

MikeS

Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Messages
222
Location
Newport, TN
Format
4x5 Format
David H. Bebbington said:
Set camera for correct exposure of directly lit background. Set flashgun to one stop LARGER than the stop you are actually using for 2:1 ratio or two stops LARGER for 4:1 fill (flashgun set to, for example, f8 outputs half as much light as when set to f11 for same film speed). As you are using leaf-shutter lenses, any speed can be used with electronic flash.

Regards,

David

Gee, I must be using outdated flash equipment. None of my flash equipment has any way of setting an f-stop on it. My newer stuff (Honeywell Strobonars) have either an on/off switch, or an off/m/a switch. My other flash stuff has no switches at all, just a socket to insert a flash bulb!

So using these antique flashes, how would I go about doing this same scene?

-Mike
 

Blighty

Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2004
Messages
914
Location
Lancaster, N
Format
Multi Format
MikeS said:
Gee, I must be using outdated flash equipment. None of my flash equipment has any way of setting an f-stop on it. My newer stuff (Honeywell Strobonars) have either an on/off switch, or an off/m/a switch. My other flash stuff has no switches at all, just a socket to insert a flash bulb!

So using these antique flashes, how would I go about doing this same scene?

-Mike
You calculate the F stop required for the flash -to-subject distance (say f5.6) then set your aperture to f8 and adjust the shutter speed to give a correct reading for the background.
 
Joined
Dec 12, 2004
Messages
2,360
Location
East Kent, U
Format
Medium Format
MikeS said:
Gee, I must be using outdated flash equipment. None of my flash equipment has any way of setting an f-stop on it. My newer stuff (Honeywell Strobonars) have either an on/off switch, or an off/m/a switch.
Other replies are entirely correct for a totally manual flash, however the "off/m/a switch" suggests that this gun does have an automatic function (confirmation - is there a place on the gun to set film speed and read an aperture from a scale?) If so, you can persuade the gun to give a ratioed fill by setting a "wrong" film speed - if the flashgun "thinks" you are using ISO 200 film, whereas you're really using 100, it will give a flash one stop weaker than normal.

A further factor with really old manual-only flashguns is that the guide numbers may well have been rather optimistic when new and won't have got more accurate with age.
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom