I've filed out a lot of 35mm negative carriers in my day. Heck, I even filed out the negative strip holder for my Coolscan 5000! But the enlarger ones have always been with condenser light sources.
Now I'm trying to file out a spare Femomask 35 set for a Durst L1200 with the CLS500 head. The top mask has a straight hole that is seemingly the perfect size - leaves just enough of the rebate showing all around the image. The lower mask has a smaller hole that crops the image, but the edges are beveled at 45 degrees, so that the bottom side (away from the negative) is a much bigger hole. About exactly the same size as the top one, in fact! So I started by filing off those chamfers until the hole was the bigger size, with straight edges, then painted the filed parts flat black. Perfect! Until I tried to use it.
I'm used to the effects you get with weird reflections off of the filed edges, etc. but this was just downright bizarre. I was getting *shadows* around the edges, but away from the edge a bit (like the light was being canceled out due to interference patterns), in addition to just all kinds of softness and weirdness. I didn't even make a print as an example because it was so awful. I'm guessing this is due to the difference of the diffuse (scattered) light source instead of the straight beam of light from a condenser. I ended up printing the negs on a glass carrier and moving the built in masks in, but those are so far below the negative that they give really fuzzy edges; I couldn't move them as close to the image area as I wanted or they'd fuzz off the edge of the image.
So my question is, how do you properly file out masks for diffusion enlargers? Is it just a matter of chamfering off the new edges on the lower mask at 45 degrees again? The upper mask sides are straight, why the difference? And do I also need to file out the upper mask; is that opening being larger than the lower one actually an important part of the design? I'm kind of hoping to hear from someone who has done this and figured it out, rather than just blindly attacking the mask with a file again, since these masks aren't cheap to replace if I end up taking away metal I need back...
Thanks,
Duncan
Now I'm trying to file out a spare Femomask 35 set for a Durst L1200 with the CLS500 head. The top mask has a straight hole that is seemingly the perfect size - leaves just enough of the rebate showing all around the image. The lower mask has a smaller hole that crops the image, but the edges are beveled at 45 degrees, so that the bottom side (away from the negative) is a much bigger hole. About exactly the same size as the top one, in fact! So I started by filing off those chamfers until the hole was the bigger size, with straight edges, then painted the filed parts flat black. Perfect! Until I tried to use it.
I'm used to the effects you get with weird reflections off of the filed edges, etc. but this was just downright bizarre. I was getting *shadows* around the edges, but away from the edge a bit (like the light was being canceled out due to interference patterns), in addition to just all kinds of softness and weirdness. I didn't even make a print as an example because it was so awful. I'm guessing this is due to the difference of the diffuse (scattered) light source instead of the straight beam of light from a condenser. I ended up printing the negs on a glass carrier and moving the built in masks in, but those are so far below the negative that they give really fuzzy edges; I couldn't move them as close to the image area as I wanted or they'd fuzz off the edge of the image.
So my question is, how do you properly file out masks for diffusion enlargers? Is it just a matter of chamfering off the new edges on the lower mask at 45 degrees again? The upper mask sides are straight, why the difference? And do I also need to file out the upper mask; is that opening being larger than the lower one actually an important part of the design? I'm kind of hoping to hear from someone who has done this and figured it out, rather than just blindly attacking the mask with a file again, since these masks aren't cheap to replace if I end up taking away metal I need back...
Thanks,
Duncan
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