FIBRE PAPER DRYING WITH SHINY SPOTS

[fralexis]

I have been printing with a matte fibre paper and drying the prints on an electric print drier...the sort that has two sides with a canvas cover. The print goes face side on the metal surface. The dried prints have splotches of shiny areas. What causes this? Thanks.

 

[MattKing]

I have been printing with a matte fibre paper and drying the prints on an electric print drier...the sort that has two sides with a canvas cover. The print goes face side on the metal surface. The dried prints have splotches of shiny areas. What causes this? Thanks.

You need to dry the paper with the print side up, toward the canvas.

And be sure that the canvas is clean.

 

[KenS]

Usually....

A. Your platen is not quite clean enough

and/or

B. Gently squeegee as much liquid off the rear and then the front surfaceof the print before placing it on the dryer.

Ken

 

[Rick A]

The print must be dryed facing the canvas, unless you have ferrotype polish to treat the drying plate. That was an old fashioned way to obtain a glossy surface. Modern papers no longer need this treatment to be glossy.

 

[fralexis]

Thanks! That did the trick. They came out just right.

 

[Photo Engineer]

The print must be dryed facing the canvas, unless you have ferrotype polish to treat the drying plate. That was an old fashioned way to obtain a glossy surface. Modern papers no longer need this treatment to be glossy.

Modern glossy FB papers would benefit greatly from having a ferrotyped glossy surface. They would really snap! The native gloss is a far cry from what it could be.

PE

 

[M. Lointain]

I agree with PE. There is nothing like a ferrotyped print.

The best thing to do with those drum dryers is to pick up a sheet of hot press watercolor paper and put that between the print and the canvas. Then you won't have to wash the canvas which is a real pain. You can just throw away the paper.

I flatten prints with one of those as well. Just put in a stack facing up with the print dryer cranked up and close the top loosely and then turn off the heat. When you come back later they will be flat as a pancake. Works like a charm.

They also work to quick dry a print. Put the print in, give it a few rubs over the canvas, turn the print over, a few rubs, repeat until dry.

 

[Ronald Moravec]

Ferro typing of glossy FB paper puts a mirror gloss on it. Done with emulsion on the platten.

You need Pakosol, a hospital clean platten, and low heat, and squeegee the print down. It will pop off when dry.

It ends up like glossy RC but more so and will give you fits if you do not do everything perfectly.

If you want a mild sheen, dry emulsion against the canvas.

 

[Rick A]

I have ferrotype plates, where do I get Pakasol?

 

[Neal]

Hi All,

While Pakasol is no longer available, I have found that simply polishing the ferrotyping plate with Renaissance Wax makes everything work wonderfully. The only real problem is that you must use the tiniest amount. Very seriously, a 65ml cup should last a long time. I keep my polishing cloth in a plastic bag and seldom add wax to it. Practicing with work prints is a very good idea.

Neal Wydra

 

[Photo Engineer]

You cannot get a good ferrotype gloss on matte paper though. That paper has a matting agent in the overcoat which will prevent a proper gloss from forming.

PE