Fibre Based Paper Dryer

[gbu]

Help! I have not used a forum before, so I don't know if this is the way to ask a question for anyone to answer. I have recently acquired a photax fibre based paper dryer, but of course it has no instructions. Under the cover it has a removable metal plate - what is this used for? I presume the paper goes "face up" on the dryer. If any one can help me I would be very grateful. Thanks.

 

[Paul Howell]

Face down towards the metal plate for glossy, face up towards the canvas for mat. Learning to use the metal plate for ferrotyping to get a glossy print takes practice.

 

[gbu]

Thank for that - now another stupid question - if I am drying paper face up toward the canvas should I remove the metal plate so that the paper just rests on the metal heater? Also roughly how long does it take to dry and what heat should I use?
Thanks

 

[Mike Crawford]

Face down towards the metal plate for glossy, face up towards the canvas for mat. Learning to use the metal plate for ferrotyping to get a glossy print takes practice.

Maybe worth mentioning that both glossy and matt papers should both be dried emulsion upwards on the metal plate unless you want an extremely glazed high gloss, then it's face down. Even then, if the plate is not extremely clean, you'll have the print stuck to the plate. Nasty! Most people prefer 'glossy unglazed.' Best to squeege the print first.

 

[Paul Howell]

Thank for that - now another stupid question - if I am drying paper face up toward the canvas should I remove the metal plate so that the paper just rests on the metal heater? Also roughly how long does it take to dry and what heat should I use?
Thanks

I have a couple of electric dryers, but my plates cannot be removed and I dont know if it best to dry on the heater or the plates, but saying that I don't know does not prevent from saying I would tend to dry with the plates on to insure even drying. I have one dryer that is double sided and I live in the desert, so I have very low humidity, the side that faces up drys single wt in just a couple of mints, double wt in 5 to 7. The side facing down does not have a lot of clearnce for air cirulation so they dry much slower. I usally load both sides, dry the side facing up, remove the dry prints, reload and then the flip over to fininish drying the bottom side. I only use my electric dryers for high gloss, and as noted getting a good gloss takes practice and some skill. I use chrome polish, the kind use to clean and chomre bumpers on older cars, to clean the plates, make sure the print is very wet, and allow to dry until the prints pops off the plate. For matt I use a set of screens.

 

[Martin Aislabie]

I don't glaze many of my prints and having had a print stick (see Mike Crawfords note) I now only glaze the emulsion against the canvas.

I like the print surface it produces but only bother doing it on my best work

Make sure the prints are fully washed and have been thoroughly soaked before attempting to glaze them

Concur with Mike Crawford about squeegee – ing the prints before you glaze.

How hot to run the Glazer is a difficult question, I start at a fairly high setting and allow the machine to warm up for 20 (ish) minutes before I start.

I find my Glazer gets progressively hotter it is used – so I slowly turn it down as the session goes on.

I find it’s a difficult trick to decide how hot to run the machine and how long to glaze the print – its something you will need to learn through practice on unimportant/scrap work.

However, it is better to work your way up in time and temperature.

Too long and/or too hot and the print can glaze itself onto the linen cover (the emulsion starts to melt into the linen – can be messy)

Have a go – it’s the best way to learn

Enjoy

Martin

 

[ragnar58]

Martin makes some good points but there is one statement that could lead you into trouble.

"I find it’s a difficult trick to decide how hot to run the machine and how long to glaze the print – its something you will need to learn through practice on unimportant/scrap work."

Make sure the trial prints for drying are washed thoroughly to prevent contamination of the linen cover screens.

I have one of these but don’t use it. Unless you really need quick prints (RC would be easier), I would stay with air-drying on fiberglass screens.

Experiment with drying face down, the glossy finish that can be achieved is quite startling.

 

[gbu]

Thanks for all your replies, I will try all the various bits of advice and see what happens - I have returned recently to darkroom work and am having to do a lot of "working in the dark" with bits of equipment gathered from ebay. I will let you know how I get on but it may take a while!
Thanks