First to the OP's easier issuew and then on to fixing and washing with a view to Rick A and markbau's discussion about fixing:
@Chrishuddersfield
When changing from RC to fiber-base paper, you need to be aware of the processing differences. Generally, fiber-base papers need longer development times than RC papers. Two minutes is about minimum; I like 2.5 minutes as a standard. Fixing and washing are also longer and very important steps to get right if you want your prints to last. There are a couple of approaches to fixing and washing, which I'll discuss below.
First on to scaling up prints. There's a handy formula I use based on print dimensions. You take the length of one side of your smaller print and figure out how long you want that to be on your larger paper. Say we have an old print with a 10-inch side (original dimension or OD) and we want that to be 15 inches long (new dimension or ND) in the new print. And, because you keep careful notes, you've got all the information for exposure time and dodging and burning times written down. You need the original time (OT). Then you do the simple calculation: (ND/OD)^2 x OT = NT (new time). Let's plug in our numbers: 15/10 = 1.5 1.5 x 1.5 (1.5 squared) = 2.25. Now, lets say our original exposure time was 15 seconds. 15 x 2.25 = 33.75. Let's round this off to make 34 seconds as your new time.
Note that the above only works if the paper speed and contrast response are exactly the same for both sizes. Not likely to happen even with the same brand of paper. However, this gives you a close enough starting point that you don't waste a lot of paper. If you're using the same paper, just do the calculations and make a print. If not, e.g., if you're changing from RC to fiber base, do the calculations and then make a test strip around that time. Use your test strip to zero in on exposure time and to tweak contrast.
New dodging and burning times can be figured using percentages. Simply figure what percentage of your base exposure the times for dodging and burning are in the original, smaller print. Once you arrive at a new exposure time for your larger print, use that new time as a basis to calculate your new dodging and burning times as percentages of that. Example: Let's say I've dodged an area on my small print for 3 seconds of my original 15 second exposure. That's 20%. So, with my new 34 second exposure, that makes my dodging time 6.8 seconds, or, rounded up, seven seconds. Again, these are only starting times, but they will get you close right away.
Okay, now on to fixing and washing:
There are two basic approaches to fixing and washing fiber-base paper for optimum permanence. The first, older and "classic" approach is exemplified by Kodak's recommendation. The newer approach, with shorter fixing and washing times, is Ilford's optimum permanence sequence. This latter is described on Ilford's website here:
https://www.ilfordphoto.com/ilford-optimum-permanance-wash-sequence-fb-papers/ . In short, it relies on using strong rapid fixer one-bath for a short time to prevent fixer from soaking into the paper base and an extended treatment in wash aid to get rid of the fixer. Wash times are quite short. compared to the Kodak regime. The downside to this approach is that the fixer capacity is quite low in comparison to two-bath fixing; only 10 8x10 prints per liter for optimum permanence and 40 for the less-permanent "commercial" standard. One could, theoretically, use two-bath fixing methods together with the shorter fixing time, but this is really only practical for smaller prints. With larger prints, it is really a challenge to keep the fixing time down to 30 seconds in each bath when you include drain times, etc. Note that fixing longer than the 60 seconds Ilford specifies for this regime effectively negates the advantage it provides and requires longer wash times.
The "classic" method of fixing and washing as exemplified by Kodak's methods, and using a two-bath fixing regime are:
1. prepare two fixing baths
2. fix the print for half the total fixing time in bath 1 and then drain and transfer it to bath 2 for for the second half of the fixing time.
3. transfer the print to a water-rinse tray and rinse for at least 1 minute
4. transfer the print to the wash-aid tray and treat it with agitation for 3 minutes.
5. wash in running water for at least 20 minutes.
With two bath fixing, you use bath one till its "commercial" capacity has been reached (40 8x10s per liter) then discard it and replace it with bath 2, which now becomes the new bath one. Mix a new bath 2. This cycle can be repeated 4 times. The advantage of two-bath fixing is that bath one does the lion's share of the fixing, even though by-products build up in the fixer that would damage the print if not fixed further. Bath 2 finishes things off, converting those by-products to water-soluble compounds easily and not affecting its capacity much (which is why it can be used as bath 1 later), and ensuring that the print is fixed to optimum permanence standards.
The fixing times you use for fiber-base prints will depend on the fixer you choose. Conventional (mixed from powder) fixers are sodium thiosulfate based and require longer times, usually 5-10 minutes. Rapid fixers (mixed from liquids) work faster. Times for these fixers depends on the dilution used. The stronger "film-strength" dilution is used by Ilford in its optimum permanence sequence and has fixing times around 1 minute. The weaker "paper-strength" dilution needs times of 2-3 minutes. So, it's important to know what fixer you are using and what dilution. In other words, read the directions.
Equally important is not overusing your fixer! If you want optimum permanence for your prints, then 10 8x10-inch prints per liter of fixer with a single-bath regime is all you get. You can go up to around 40 8x10s per liter if you just need "commercial" permanence (usually this is a lifespan of just a few years compared to the many decades for optimally processed prints). With a two-bath regime, one is fixing for optimum permanence. Capacity there is around 40 8x10s per liter of bath 1 (note, you've got bath 2 as well, which means you get roughly 20 8x10s per liter total, double that of the single-bath regime, but with longer fixing and washing times).
Do read and digest the Ilford tech sheet on Rapid Fixer here:
https://www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file/1833/product/711/ . It's well worth the read. Pay attention to the difference in "commercial" capacities and the capacities listed in the section on fixing for optimum permanence.
Hope this helps,
Doremus