Ferrotype polish - what is it and where to get it?

[Neal]

Fwiw, I like to use Renaissance wax applied as thinly as possible. For some reason it is unnecessary on my Arkay drum dryer.

Neal Wydra

 

[BobMarvin]

I think it's easier to ferrotype prints without an electric dryer; just use an unheated ferrotype plate. The prints pop off when they're dry. That being said, I haven't ferrotyped glossy paper for 50 years and much prefer the look of unferrotyped glossy paper (i.e. semi-glossy) anltough IMO ferrotyped FB glossy is better than the artificial look of RC glossy ( which I REALLY dislike).

 

[Jojje]

I've also used Renaissance wax.

 

[Ronald Moravec]

Use RC glossy and a hair dryer.

I have RC prints from the 1970`s that look like the day I made them. Tix and wash well.

In early 60`s I had college darkrooms with 3 foot diameter belt fed drum driers. A tray of Pakosol was used to soak the print before drying. Pako is no linger available, but I did find the formula on line a few years back.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Use RC glossy and a hair dryer.

But we already have print dryers. I have a drum print dryer.

 

[Arklatexian]

Ferrotype polish -

During the many years I used ferrotype plates, I never bought special polish.
Simply wash them well with a good bar soap, rinse well in hot water and then rub with a soft cloth on which you have poured a small amount of glycerin.
The prints will gloss beautifully and evenly with no dull spots.
Jim

Pakosol is mostly glycerin! I also remember mixing, I think it was kerosene and parafin, together and after cleaning the plate as described above, pour a small amount of the mixture on the plate and rub with a soft cloth. PLEASE experiment before using this mixture. It has only been fifty or sixty years since I have done anything like that and years later I quit rewaxing my plates and used only Pakosol.......Regards!