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Slightly OT considering where this thread is going, did some of you develop P30 in D96 and if so, what are your experiences?
 
Slightly OT considering where this thread is going, did some of you develop P30 in D96 and if so, what are your experiences?

I have developed 4 rolls in D-96 (80 ISO) and found the results full of contrast and detail, I was particularly surprised by highlight detail as well as shadow detail in certain lighting conditions where I expected burned highs and crushed blacks.

I have plenty of samples if you like.

I will say, 8 minutes continuous might be too long and will be trying 7 with some future rolls.

My next roll or two will go into Thornton's Two-bath as I've always wanted to try a two-bath with the P30 but never got around to ordering more chems.
 
I have developed 4 rolls in D-96 (80 ISO) and found the results full of contrast and detail, I was particularly surprised by highlight detail as well as shadow detail in certain lighting conditions where I expected burned highs and crushed blacks.

I have plenty of samples if you like.

I will say, 8 minutes continuous might be too long and will be trying 7 with some future rolls.

My next roll or two will go into Thornton's Two-bath as I've always wanted to try a two-bath with the P30 but never got around to ordering more chems.

Thanks, Scott, for sharing your experience!
That sound encouraging, because I had hoped ISO80 would still offer nice details in the highlights and shadows.
Would be great if you could show some examples, also via PM if you prefer.
 
Thanks, Scott, for sharing your experience!
That sound encouraging, because I had hoped ISO80 would still offer nice details in the highlights and shadows.
Would be great if you could show some examples, also via PM if you prefer.
I will PM some samples. I find the D96 to be the most cinematic match to what I have seen in motion pictures if you meter carefully. TMAX 1:6 24C 7 minutes is still superior (caveat: I do not know if this Kodak formula has changed like HC-110). I am really optimistic of the Thornton Two-bath with some careful shadow metering. Most of my P30 use is in somewhat high contrast lighting, like vacationing in October (white skies) or just overcast lighting. I try not to use the P30 in direct sun.
 
I will PM some samples. I find the D96 to be the most cinematic match to what I have seen in motion pictures if you meter carefully. TMAX 1:6 24C 7 minutes is still superior (caveat: I do not know if this Kodak formula has changed like HC-110). I am really optimistic of the Thornton Two-bath with some careful shadow metering. Most of my P30 use is in somewhat high contrast lighting, like vacationing in October (white skies) or just overcast lighting. I try not to use the P30 in direct sun.

thanks again Scott for the explanation and some insight on how you shoot P30!
 
I will PM some samples. I find the D96 to be the most cinematic match to what I have seen in motion pictures if you meter carefully. TMAX 1:6 24C 7 minutes is still superior (caveat: I do not know if this Kodak formula has changed like HC-110). I am really optimistic of the Thornton Two-bath with some careful shadow metering. Most of my P30 use is in somewhat high contrast lighting, like vacationing in October (white skies) or just overcast lighting. I try not to use the P30 in direct sun.

one additional question: TMAX gives you better negatives? in what regard? and can you still meter P30@80?
 
one additional question: TMAX gives you better negatives? in what regard? and can you still meter P30@80?

I always meter P30 at box speed. I found better shadow detail with TMAX at 1:6. I'm unsure of the chemical reason, or perhaps the temperature is better suited for the P30 or maybe it is more difficult to overdevelop with TMAX at that dilution. I see quite a few overdeveloped images from labs lately.

In an effort to assist Ferrania compile their "community-supplied" development recipes, Emulsive put together two articles detailing my tests to help validate member contributions. Some recipes were hit and miss, but I tried to test the more commonly available chems and used the flattest output from my Pakon F-135 scanner and in the darkroom, only printing on multigrade paper with grade 2 equivalent filtration.

 
I always meter P30 at box speed. I found better shadow detail with TMAX at 1:6. I'm unsure of the chemical reason, or perhaps the temperature is better suited for the P30 or maybe it is more difficult to overdevelop with TMAX at that dilution. I see quite a few overdeveloped images from labs lately.

In an effort to assist Ferrania compile their "community-supplied" development recipes, Emulsive put together two articles detailing my tests to help validate member contributions. Some recipes were hit and miss, but I tried to test the more commonly available chems and used the flattest output from my Pakon F-135 scanner and in the darkroom, only printing on multigrade paper with grade 2 equivalent filtration.


thanks for the link. And 8½ in the second paragraph there :smile:
You really have tried a lot of developers… Will read it thoroughly before shooting P30.
 
I always meter P30 at box speed. I found better shadow detail with TMAX at 1:6. I'm unsure of the chemical reason, or perhaps the temperature is better suited for the P30 or maybe it is more difficult to overdevelop with TMAX at that dilution. I see quite a few overdeveloped images from labs lately.

In an effort to assist Ferrania compile their "community-supplied" development recipes, Emulsive put together two articles detailing my tests to help validate member contributions. Some recipes were hit and miss, but I tried to test the more commonly available chems and used the flattest output from my Pakon F-135 scanner and in the darkroom, only printing on multigrade paper with grade 2 equivalent filtration.


Any reason you developed D-96 in a Rodinax processor and everything else in a Paterson tank?
 
Here are some images from a roll developed in home-brewed Barry Thornton Two-Bath 4+4, EI 80 out of the Nikon F2 and 50mm lens. Pakon F135 scans to raw and I used Negative Lab Pro to invert them.

 
Scott, what's the colour of the lady's tee shirt in first photo where she is in the foreground with a bridge in the background?

Thanks

pentaxuser
 
Scott, what's the colour of the lady's tee shirt in first photo where she is in the foreground with a bridge in the background?

Thanks

pentaxuser

It is black. I think most of Puma's activewear is black. I took several images of red bricks if you are looking for ortho characteristics.
 
Here are some images from a roll developed in home-brewed Barry Thornton Two-Bath 4+4, EI 80 out of the Nikon F2 and 50mm lens. Pakon F135 scans to raw and I used Negative Lab Pro to invert them.


That looks really nice. I'll probably try that with my two remaining alpha rolls. Have previously used D23 and HC-110. D23 probably looked the best but with crushed blacks at EI32. This looks much better in that regard.
 
It is black. I think most of Puma's activewear is black. I took several images of red bricks if you are looking for ortho characteristics.

Thanks I could find no. 13 with red bricks and I found it was difficult to tell from this how ortho the film is although in pictures from many pages ago road signs that were red were very dark

pentaxuser
 
Thanks I could find no. 13 with red bricks and I found it was difficult to tell from this how ortho the film is although in pictures from many pages ago road signs that were red were very dark

pentaxuser

I find the film seems more ortho when I capture red items in the open shade. I have a roll drying now from my little Rollei35s that has one of Frecciarossa's electric Fiat 500s (red). I am guessing it will look very dark as I captured most of on its shady side so I wouldn't get hit by cars.
 
Thanks I could find no. 13 with red bricks and I found it was difficult to tell from this how ortho the film is although in pictures from many pages ago road signs that were red were very dark

pentaxuser

Pentaxuser,

Here is the red rental car. There is some underexposure here as I should have metered for the shadow side of the car, not "cloudy f/8". You can still see how dark the red appears in the non-illuminated areas.

 
Last edited:
Pentaxuser,

Here is the red rental car. There is some underexposure here as I should have metered for the shadow side of the car, not "cloudy f/8". You can still see how dark the read appears in the non-illuminated areas.



Scott, I think these are great. They really encourage me to try this film out when/if it goes mainstream. Thanks for sharing!
 
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