Ferrania P30 - contrast too high

[darkosaric]

I tried Ferrania P30, and the grain is small, but contrast is really high. It reminds me on Efke 25, where I had problem with contrast control. I tried Rodinal 1+25, also 1+50, but it was always too high for my taste.
I just got couple of rolls to try it out, as I always do on new films, but I think it does not suit my needs.

One more thing: one roll of film had an issue with winding the film, it was going out from the canister with very high firce, my Leica Minilux was strugling, and when I rewinded the film back - I neede to press rewind couple of times, it rewinds 5-6 frames, then stops, then I shutdown the camera, power on, and again 5-6 frames... strange thing, only on one from 4 rolls, never seen that before.

Here is one example - where I user very low filter on paper, to save at least something:

 

[Alan Johnson]

If not keen on the natural contrast of Ferrania P-30 in "ordinary" developers, note that Adox HR-50 film is derived from Aviphot 80 which is also high contrast.
Adox suggest some lower contrast developers for this in the HR-50 data sheet:

https://www.fotoimpex.com/shop/images/products/media/63360_5_PDF-Datasheet.pdf

 

[loccdor]

Regarding the winding, I can corroborate your observation: my Canon EOS Elan 7E also winds this film a little differently than those from other manufacturers, the sound is more strained and it usually leaves some of the leader out.

I've tried stand development with 510-pyro 1+300, 1 hour, and liked the results, but it is a contrasty film in general, and it works better in softer light.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

EI 32 and Thornton's 2-bath. Very nice results.

 

[Alan9940]

If you expose at box speed and develop per most recommendations out there, you will indeed get higher contrast negatives. Like Andrew, I expose P-30 at EI 32 and develop in D-96 1:1. The resulting negatives result in normal contrast from this film.

 

[Agulliver]

Shrugs....it's known to be a high contrast film. I use it when I want high contrast photos, for artistic reasons. I wouldn't use P30 if I was looking for low-to-normal contrast.

 

[darkosaric]

I did used it more "for fun", to test the new film, nothing important on those films.

 

[Hubigpielover]

I tried Ferrania P30, and the grain is small, but contrast is really high. It reminds me on Efke 25, where I had problem with contrast control. I tried Rodinal 1+25, also 1+50, but it was always too high for my taste.
I just got couple of rolls to try it out, as I always do on new films, but I think it does not suit my needs.

One more thing: one roll of film had an issue with winding the film, it was going out from the canister with very high firce, my Leica Minilux was strugling, and when I rewinded the film back - I neede to press rewind couple of times, it rewinds 5-6 frames, then stops, then I shutdown the camera, power on, and again 5-6 frames... strange thing, only on one from 4 rolls, never seen that before.

Here is one example - where I user very low filter on paper, to save at least something:


View attachment 373297

FINALLY! I have been waiting for a replacement for my beloved Efke 25. I have some in the fridge that I wanted to test out. If I stick with it, what developer do you recommend.

 

[darkosaric]

Well, Rodinal 1+25 and 1+50 are not working very good, maybe semi stand in 1+100, but I did not tried that. I used 1+100 and semi stand for Efke 25. Some guys in this thread recommended other developers that are worth trying.

 

[darkosaric]

Here are two more prints: Rodinal 1+25, and even with grade 1 prints are pretty contrasty. But the grain is very small, I had problem to see it in grain focuser.

 

[warden]

I tried Ferrania P30, and the grain is small, but contrast is really high. It reminds me on Efke 25, where I had problem with contrast control. I tried Rodinal 1+25, also 1+50, but it was always too high for my taste.
I just got couple of rolls to try it out, as I always do on new films, but I think it does not suit my needs.

One more thing: one roll of film had an issue with winding the film, it was going out from the canister with very high firce, my Leica Minilux was strugling, and when I rewinded the film back - I neede to press rewind couple of times, it rewinds 5-6 frames, then stops, then I shutdown the camera, power on, and again 5-6 frames... strange thing, only on one from 4 rolls, never seen that before.

Here is one example - where I user very low filter on paper, to save at least something:


View attachment 373297

Even with the lack of shadow detail I like the first image quite a bit because (to me) the shadows don’t matter much here anyway. But the second two I agree are struggling due to contrast. It’s a hard film to get right unless you don’t mind very slow speeds.

 

[Milpool]

It seems to be a somewhat oddly sensitized, slow speed (or high contrast)/fine grain film. Might as well use it where/when those characteristics are what you’re looking for.

 

[Augustus Caesar]

I have never found much use for very slow films.They demand very delicate development. I recommend using FX39-II 1+19 for 8-10 minutes to start, for this film and for Pan-F+.

 

[darkosaric]

For the photos that I do (people and street) - normal iso 100 and iso 400 films are perfect (Foma, Ilford, Adox, Kodak). But I like to experiment with different cameras, films and papers, so here and there I get something new, especially when new film comes to a market - I want to support them. But it is true - those films like P30 are not easy.

 

[JPD]

If you expose at box speed and develop per most recommendations out there, you will indeed get higher contrast negatives. Like Andrew, I expose P-30 at EI 32 and develop in D-96 1:1. The resulting negatives result in normal contrast from this film.

Why 32 and not 25?

 

[Alan9940]

Why 32 and not 25?

Because EI 32 is what I determined it to be after my normal testing procedure.

 

[JPD]

Because EI 32 is what I determined it to be after my normal testing procedure.

Ok. It has never been an exact science for me since I use so many different cameras, with 60-100 year old leaf shutters.

 

[bluechromis]

Well, Rodinal 1+25 and 1+50 are not working very good, maybe semi stand in 1+100, but I did not tried that. I used 1+100 and semi stand for Efke 25. Some guys in this thread recommended other developers that are worth trying.

P30 at E.I. 25 in Rodinal 100 + 1 semi-stand, 1 hr. worked well for me. E.I. 40 with Adox Silvermax developer also worked. I think the idea of using the Adox HR-50 developer is worth trying. Some say the Silvermax and HR-50 developers correspond to Spur developers. The photo is Rodinal semi-stand. There was detail in all the shadows.

 

[darkosaric]

Thanks for confirming that semi stand in Rodinal 1+100 works