FED 1 - Industar 10 damage

[Woutervg97]

Ive just bought a FED 1 on a market in Vienna, before seeing this chip in the lens. Is it still usable, or should I get a new lens?

 

[koraks]

I bet that will produce some extremely fuzzy pictures. Yes, you'll need a new lens if you want normal photos.

 

[John Wiegerink]

Try it! I once had a Nikkor lens with a split/cracked element right down the middle and it was still a great picture taker. You might be surprised, but I'd expected it to flare in bright lighting. Also, it shouldn't set you back much to replace this one with a much better looking one.

 

[Woutervg97]

Try it! I once had a Nikkor lens with a split/cracked element right down the middle and it was still a great picture taker. You might be surprised, but I'd expected it to flare in bright lighting. Also, it shouldn't set you back much to replace this one with a much better looking one.

Thanks! Im not quite familiar with the m39 lenses (also because of the ffd). Got any recommendations for a replacement if need be?

 

[John Wiegerink]

Thanks! Im not quite familiar with the m39 lenses (also because of the ffd). Got any recommendations for a replacement if need be?

Well, if it were me I'd like to stay with what the FED camera came with and would look for a lens exactly like you have only with good glass. You then can venture out into other M39 or Leica Thread Mount lenses. There are millions of M39/LTM lenses on the big auction site and other places as well.

 

[Don_ih]

I have an old folder that has a cracked front element. Makes no difference (which was somewhat of a disappointment). You'll probably get flare more easily.

Got any recommendations for a replacement if need be?

Industar 26m.

 

[blee1996]

In terms of aesthetics, I would argue that another Industar-10 will fit the FED 1 best. But like others said, try it first since you might get surprisingly interesting results.

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

If there are any aspiring Miroslav Tichy's out there they might take that lens off your hands. His famous statement:

“If you want to be famous, you must do something more badly than anybody in the entire world.” And to do this, “First of all, you have to have a bad camera.”​

Some Assembly Required: Miroslav Tichý — Online - Don't Take Pictures

This series focuses on those who take the making of pictures a step or two further, creating their own photographic tools.

www.donttakepictures.com

https://www.invaluable.com/artist/tichy-miroslav-l8zge1ijmn/sold-at-auction-prices/

To bad that to be a successful artist you have to be safely dead. Otherwise the following may occur: Miroslav: "They want $4,000 for that? I'll print you a copy for $10. I may even use fresh fixer. Or not."

* * *​

But I agree, try the camera - you might like it.

 

[MartinCrabtree]

I'd at least give it a shot out of curiosity.

 

[reddesert]

I too would take some pics with the lens as-is just to see what they come out like. Front element damage may not be that obvious in photos until you point it into a bright light source. (Rear element damage is likely to be worse.) Here is a related comparison from lensrentals: https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2008/10/front-element-scratches/

That said, it also shouldn't be hard to find another compatible Soviet-era 50mm lens, perhaps harder to find an Industar-10, but there are other collapsible 50mm.

Also, since the damage is localized, you could put a piece of black tape over the damaged area and take some pictures. You'll probably lose about 1/3 of the aperture area so roughly 2/3 of a stop of exposure, but with the damage blacked out, it may be difficult to detect any effect on the pictures.

 

[Dali]

Be careful is you want to change of lens. I don't know what the serial number of your FED 1 camera is, but earlier cameras were not at the LTM standard and flange distance could be different from 28.80mm. Also in the camera, the lens mount could be oriented differently than usual and screwing a "normal" would mean to have, for some distance, the focusing tab right in front of the rangefinder window (not very convenient). The mount screwed to the camera cannot be turned and placed differently because the rear part (in contact with the camera) is not symmetrical. To play it safe, the best solution would be to change the optical part on the lens but to keep the mechanical part for compatibility reason with the camera.

 

[Woutervg97]

So with all the input I decided tw things:

- bought an old FED 2 on a local online marketplace with Lens for a good sum. Flange should be the same as my FED 1 is one of the later types. Im going to check with the newer lens, although asthetics on the industar 10 are just better. When I find another one of those, definetly using that.
- bought an adapter for m39. Flange wouldnt be good, but Id get a feel for the lens damage/optics. For anyone afraid of monsters: close your eyes now.

When rotating the lens I could see some flare rotating with the cut in the lens, but to my suprise: it seemed pretty good! I was honestly amazed.

Now to see if FEDs are going to be my new obsession.

 

[koraks]

I'd love to see some images you made with that combination!

 

[reddesert]

That's a DSLR, right? You already know about the flange distance being too large for infinity focus, but just make sure not to collapse the lens as it could damage the mirror, especially if you accidentally fire the shutter. I would put some tape/spacer on the lens to keep it from collapsing while it's on there. It looks like you may have some black tape there already, but more wouldn't hurt. Have fun!

 

[Dali]

Woutervg97, as your I-10 has the old aperture scale, I assumed you camera to be pre-WWII. Clearly, it is not the original lens.