Favourite Delta Dev

[hoffy]

Greetings Filmista's,

When I started shooting MF, I quickly fell in love with Delta 100...that was before trying FP4+. Since that fateful day, my supply of Delta 100 has lanquised in the freezer, neglected.

Since I have a few rolls of the stuff doing not much at all, I have decided to have a bit of a play with other developers to see what I can get out of it. In the past, I have been a strictly D76 person (Is that the 'missionary' of dev's?), but I have relented and bought some Rodinal, which I will soup some D100 in to see what I will get.

So, firstly, what are peoples preferred way of processing Delta 100 in Rodinal (please also mention recommended agitation).

Secondly, do you have a favourite Delta 100/dev combo? I'm curious to hear what others are doing with that film

Cheers

 

[StoneNYC]

Anything ilford I stick with ilford developer, and I only use low ASA's for ilford (except the D3200) so I strictly use Ilfsol 3 which was specifically designed for low ASA ilford film, its newer and not as many people have tried it but they should. so try that, I use the 1+9 mixture.


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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[polyglot]

I could relieve you of a couple rolls.

 

[Slixtiesix]

May I ask why you prefer FP4+ over Delta now? I´m a fan of FP4+ but never used the Delta. I´ve read that DDX is recommended for use with the Delta line.

 

[hoffy]

Fp4, from my experience is more forgiving.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

i am a d761




=1 person myself. who needs anthing else?well, i do mix d76variations from time to time!

 

[Ian Grant]

I've been using Pyrocat HD with Delta 100 and 400 for the past 5 years with superb results.

Ian

 

[markbarendt]

Fp4, from my experience is more forgiving.

Yeah that, although instead of or in addition to more forgiving I might say more automatic or more reliable or even easier to use.

I've had better luck taming Delta 100 by paring it with a staining developer, WD2D+ in my case.

 

[Ghostman]

Yesterday I shot a roll of Delta 100 and developed in Rodinal 1+50 for 18 minutes. I was very happy with the results. I normally use DD-X.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

I've gotten good results in Rodinal and D-76 but really like it in HC-110:


Presidio 1st roll with FujiGA645zi IlfordDelta100 HC-110dilH 9min30sec 20C 1minAgRolling 04-2011 VSmac 9000 Scan-110425-0001 FFw by rich8155 (Richard Sintchak), on Flickr

 

[Rob Skeoch]

I use it in ID-11 and mix it 1:3. Gives me a time around 16 min. but your mileage may vary.
Happy with it overall.

-Rob Skeoch

 

[markbarendt]

I use it in ID-11 and mix it 1:3. Gives me a time around 16 min. but your mileage may vary.
Happy with it overall.

-Rob Skeoch

So I'm guessing EI100 and about 10% under under Ilford's recommendation?

 

[RalphLambrecht]

that sounds right, but you need to conduct a proper film test to get your best values:
//www.darkroomagic.com/DarkroomMagic/Darkroom.html

 

[PeteZ8]

Perceptol 1:3 for 16 minutes, agitating once per minute, shot @ ISO 50. I find it gives a very fine grain and smooth tones. I have accidentally shot rolls @ 100 and developed them for 22 minutes and had good luck as well, but that's pretty boring!

 

[StoneNYC]

You guys are crazy, I try to stay under 10 minutes with any developer, I'm super lazy...

Probably the other reason I like Pan F+ and Ilfsol 3 since its like 4 minutes for the 1+9 mix. So nice!


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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[PeteZ8]

You guys are crazy, I try to stay under 10 minutes with any developer, I'm super lazy...

Probably the other reason I like Pan F+ and Ilfsol 3 since its like 4 minutes for the 1+9 mix. So nice!


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not really; the 1 minute agitation times actually work out pretty well. It gives me enough time to run around the house and get other little jobs done while it's developing. I actually make it a rather productive time. Since I develop film in my kitchen and not tucked away in a darkroom, in between agitations I get the dishwasher loaded, countertops cleaned, maybe get a load of laundry going, etc. I actually don't mind it as much as, say, TX400 in D-76. Even though it's 1/2 the amount of development time, the 30 second agitations don't really give me any time to turn my back and get anything else done.

Having said that, my primary B&W is TX400 in D-76, which I actually find rather laborious to develop as it requires pretty much constant attention. That and I find the 120 size MUCH more annoying to spool than Ilford films. Oh but that classic Kodak look.... makes it all worth it!

 

[Craig Swensson]

Not really; the 1 minute agitation times actually work out pretty well. It gives me enough time to run around the house and get other little jobs done while it's developing. I actually make it a rather productive time. Since I develop film in my kitchen and not tucked away in a darkroom, in between agitations I get the dishwasher loaded, countertops cleaned, maybe get a load of laundry going, etc. I actually don't mind it as much as, say, TX400 in D-76. Even though it's 1/2 the amount of development time, the 30 second agitations don't really give me any time to turn my back and get anything else done.

Having said that, my primary B&W is TX400 in D-76, which I actually find rather laborious to develop as it requires pretty much constant attention. That and I find the 120 size MUCH more annoying to spool than Ilford films. Oh but that classic Kodak look.... makes it all worth it!

I can get coffee through the machine, do an agitation then steam milk before next agitation

 

[StoneNYC]

Not really; the 1 minute agitation times actually work out pretty well. It gives me enough time to run around the house and get other little jobs done while it's developing. I actually make it a rather productive time. Since I develop film in my kitchen and not tucked away in a darkroom, in between agitations I get the dishwasher loaded, countertops cleaned, maybe get a load of laundry going, etc. I actually don't mind it as much as, say, TX400 in D-76. Even though it's 1/2 the amount of development time, the 30 second agitations don't really give me any time to turn my back and get anything else done.

Having said that, my primary B&W is TX400 in D-76, which I actually find rather laborious to develop as it requires pretty much constant attention. That and I find the 120 size MUCH more annoying to spool than Ilford films. Oh but that classic Kodak look.... makes it all worth it!

First, with all that chemical on your hands / counter / etc, you shouldn't be doing dishes or doing laundry or as the next poster said making coffee... That's just too chemically risky to me.

I don't get the 120 to ilford comment... All of my ilford is 120....

Do you use plastic or SS reels? If you use plastic, don't use the Patterson spools they are terrible, use JOBO spools, ironically I like the Patterson tanks much better and find the JOBO tanks leaky and lame, but the opposite with the spool/reels. They have an extra tongue sticking out that makes them super easy to load.


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[CatLABS]

I've been using Pyrocat HD with Delta 100 and 400 for the past 5 years with superb results.

Ian

Do share your dilution\times?

 

[RalphLambrecht]

HIS dilution and times are not relevant for you. you have to do your own development test. sorry, but that is the unfortunate truth. there are no short cuts. otherwise ,you end up with never-ending trial and error without ever reaching the optimum.

 

[PeteZ8]

First, with all that chemical on your hands / counter / etc, you shouldn't be doing dishes or doing laundry or as the next poster said making coffee... That's just too chemically risky to me.

I don't get the 120 to ilford comment... All of my ilford is 120....

Do you use plastic or SS reels? If you use plastic, don't use the Patterson spools they are terrible, use JOBO spools, ironically I like the Patterson tanks much better and find the JOBO tanks leaky and lame, but the opposite with the spool/reels. They have an extra tongue sticking out that makes them super easy to load.


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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I think you are way, way, way too paranoid about the possibility of a drop or two of a highly diluted, relatively safe chemical possibly coming into contact with dirty laundry or dirty dishes. If I was that paranoid about developer coming into contact with my dirty laundry, I would have to burn my clothes every time I walked out of the darkroom (after all, what else could I do with them?) As for the dishes, I'm far more concerned with what companies are putting IN the food I eat, than the remote possibility that 1 or two molecules of Metol might somehow make it through the dishwasher and contaminate my mashed potatoes.

What I meant about 120 film is that Tri-X is a major pain in the you-know-what to get onto reels. Ilford film tends to be much less curly and I find it very easy to load. I will have to try some Jobo's; I use Patterson.

 

[mfohl]

The developer adds flavor to the coffee, right? You should try it on breakfast cereal!

 

[StoneNYC]

I think you are way, way, way too paranoid about the possibility of a drop or two of a highly diluted, relatively safe chemical possibly coming into contact with dirty laundry or dirty dishes. If I was that paranoid about developer coming into contact with my dirty laundry, I would have to burn my clothes every time I walked out of the darkroom (after all, what else could I do with them?) As for the dishes, I'm far more concerned with what companies are putting IN the food I eat, than the remote possibility that 1 or two molecules of Metol might somehow make it through the dishwasher and contaminate my mashed potatoes.

What I meant about 120 film is that Tri-X is a major pain in the you-know-what to get onto reels. Ilford film tends to be much less curly and I find it very easy to load. I will have to try some Jobo's; I use Patterson.

Probably, I tend to be overly cautious mostly because I don't know how little can affect you.

But yea try the JOBO reels they really are amazingly better than the Patterson, if you DON'T like them I'll trade with you, I have a bunch of Patterson and I want them all gone... Lol

The developer adds flavor to the coffee, right? You should try it on breakfast cereal!

Oi! Haha


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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