Fastest film available in 4x5

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EASmithV

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Well, tmz is only available in 135, and Delta 3200 is only available up to 120, so...

If I wanted a 3200 speed film, would I have to use a 400 speed film and push, or are there other brands that I am unaware of which make higher speed films?
 

David A. Goldfarb

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You can probably get the most speed out of TMY-2 or HP5+ using a speed developer, but I doubt that you would get a legitimate EI 3200 with normal contrast and a measured Zone I density of 0.1 + base+fog (which isn't to say that you might not get something printable even with underexposure, and possibly even good, depending on lighting conditions).
 

mcfactor

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I have pushed hp5 to 800 with very good results and to 1600 with useable results both in FX-1
 

E76

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At one time Ilford was considering making Delta 3200 in sheet sizes. Unfortunately, I don't think anything came of it.
 

Rolleijoe

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High speed + LF is an oxymoron, seems like.
 

Ian Grant

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High speed + LF is an oxymoron, seems like.

It is these daysyes, but once Press plates were available in HPS and Royal-X the then equivalents of Delta & Tmax 3200, OK not quite as fast but faster than HP4 & Tri-X.

iT must have been ;lack of demand that killed off the high speed LF market.

Ian
 

mikebarger

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I can only get 200 out of HP5 in 4x5 as a normal speed. I've never tried to push it.
It hasn't been a problem as using a slower shutter hasn't caused any heartburn.

I've never tried the 320 Kodak.

Mike
 

keithwms

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Mike, I don't understand how you only get 200 out of hp5+. I rate it at box speed routinely and develop in plain Jane D76/ID11 1+1... no problems whatsoever. I also have pushed it (to 640 and 800) in the same, also with no ill effects.

LF gear is so unwieldy in low light, with possible exception of the crown and speed graphics and similar (when RF or scale focused). So it's just not clear to me what the market for really fast LF film would be. I mean, if I am going to shoot at 3200 then I probably will want a fast lens too.
 

Venchka

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Well, tmz is only available in 135, and Delta 3200 is only available up to 120, so...

If I wanted a 3200 speed film, would I have to use a 400 speed film and push, or are there other brands that I am unaware of which make higher speed films?

Please explain your need/use for high speed sheet film. If it is for fast shutter speeds, than pushed 400 speed film is the way to go.

On the other hand, if you wanted faster film to shorten long exposures a bit, Fuji Neopan 100 Acros is the hands down fastest long exposure film around. Fuji says from 2 minutes to 16 minutes add 1/2 stop. Do the math. By the time you get to two minutes, all of the 400 speed films require much longer exposures.
 

Ian Grant

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It all depends on the qualities & tonality you're after.

My personal EI for HP5 is 200 as well, but I also used it successfully at rock concerts at 1600 EI push processed in ID68/Microphen although I switched to XP1/2 when they were released as grain & tonality pushed was vastly superior.

I'm shooting HP5 in a hand held Crown Graphic, the light levels are high and so is the contrast, my tests show 200 EI is the fastest speed I can use and retain good shadow & highlight details, and this is confirmed by actaul usage.

Ian
 
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EASmithV

EASmithV

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Please explain your need/use for high speed sheet film. If it is for fast shutter speeds, than pushed 400 speed film is the way to go.

On the other hand, if you wanted faster film to shorten long exposures a bit, Fuji Neopan 100 Acros is the hands down fastest long exposure film around. Fuji says from 2 minutes to 16 minutes add 1/2 stop. Do the math. By the time you get to two minutes, all of the 400 speed films require much longer exposures.

I want the speed to use faster shutter speeds and shoot in natural light with a speed graphic.
 

removed account4

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you could always burn a bunch of holders of film
and do your own tests for tri x, tmy, and hp ...
find a developer you want to use and have fun.

one thing i have learned about reading posts on the internet
is that one person's treasure is another person's trash ..
their shooting technique, lighting and processing may be totally different than yours
so your results doing his suggestions may come out totally different.
i know i have given people advice about using ansco 130 for film processing
and their results have been totally different from mine ...

happy testing!
john
 

David A. Goldfarb

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I want the speed to use faster shutter speeds and shoot in natural light with a speed graphic.

To do that on my Technika, I usually shoot TXP at EI 640 developed in Acufine. You can get probably get a little more speed out of TMY-2 or HP5+, but I prefer the look of Tri-X.
 

nick mulder

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Rollei R3
 

Henry Carter

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In 4x5 I normally shoot HP5 rated at 200 or 400 developed in PMK.

I occasionally push it 1 or 2 stops, processed in Microphen. Though the look has a certain grit and a little more grain to it, HP5 @1600 processed in Microphen gives you wonderful results. It extends your possibilities for low-light or hand-held shooting with available light.

Long live hand-held 4x5 photography!
 

Don Wallace

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I want the speed to use faster shutter speeds and shoot in natural light with a speed graphic.

I am assuming that you want to use the Speed for hand-held photography. Most photographers who used the Speed Graphic for news photography also used a flash the side of a wok. I understand why you want to use available light, but you may be imposing unrealistic conditions on yourself. An alternative would be to use the Speed with a roll film back since you can get faster film in 120 than in 4x5.
 

BetterSense

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From what I understand, the usual newspaperman methodology was to use F/16, 1/100s or faster, and pre-focus to an intermediate distance. Those flashbulbs must have been really bright!
 

Bosaiya

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I do a good amount of handheld 4x5 in available low-light conditions. In addition to pushing film there are two options I can recommend.

One option is a faster lens. Focus gets tricky, but if you know your distances and practice you'll get the hang of it.

The second option is to brace either yourself or the camera. I try to lean back against a solid surface and clamp my elbows in. For me that's good for speeds down to about 1/30. You can also use a monopod or chainpod if you're in the open.
 

keithwms

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Roger, you can use a PA45 back. It is a lightweight back that slips in like a film holder. (to those interested: the fp300b45 is a packfilm, so you cannot use the 545 single-sheet polaroid holders)

If you want to use the smaller (3.25") version, then the back you want is called a PA145.

Link with some info: http://www.japanexposures.com/2008/03/03/fuji-instant-film-holders/
 
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