F100 + PW's

[ChristopherCoy]

Ok, I've done enough research to know that the F100 doesn't work with the SB700's that I have. I've also learned that in order to use the CLS system, I'd have to buy a used SB800 because it was the last model to support film based TTL (I think).

But, what if I put my Pocket Wizard Mini TT1 on the camera and Flex TT5 on the SB700's. Will that work?

As well, if I buy a used SB800, could I put it on the F100 and use it as a master with the SB700's in remote?

This digital TTL vs film TTL is rather confusing.

 

[Two23]

My guess is it won't. TTL and iTTL are two entirely different systems. I think you can use the PW in regular manual mode? You can use the SB-700 in manual mode also, I think. I use CyberSyncs (I have 8 of them) with my D300 and film cameras all the time.


Kent in SD

 

[ChristopherCoy]

Crap. Looks like I have another thread on the matter. I'm still confused.

 

[Chan Tran]

Your F100 won't work with either i-TTL or CLS. But to me neither is important. I could do better without them.

 

[ChristopherCoy]

Your F100 won't work with either i-TTL or CLS. But to me neither is important. I could do better without them.

Yeah, but how can you control power remotely?

 

[PhotoJim]

Yeah, but how can you control power remotely?

The easiest way is to get the TTL cords Nikon sells, and an AS-10 base for any off-camera flashes you want to use. That way all the lights will be controlled via TTL.

Failing that, studio lighting with modeling lights (or straight tungsten lights) would be your best bet.

 

[Chan Tran]

Yeah, but how can you control power remotely?

Sorry I forgot! I would put the flash in manual and ajust power ratio. Use a flash meter to determine exposure. But I forgot that you may not have a flash meter.

 

[brofkand]

If you don't have a flash meter, get a Polaris meter. It's about $180, and works with flash, ambient, and there is also a spot attachment available. I use one and it works great; according to my film it's accurate (I doubt it's 100% accurate; it reads a little hot according to some Polaroids I've taken), but it is plenty accurate for color neg/B&W film. You can adjust the reading, but I haven't messed with it. A used Minolta meter is about the same price.

A Flash meter and a handful of $30 "Neewer" flashes from eBay/Amazon is still cheaper than a Nikon CLS-compatible flash. Then all you need are stands, umbrellas, and a method of triggering: the Neewer flashes have built-in optical slave, so you can mount one on your hotshoe or use Pocket Wizards or "Cowboy Studio" triggers.

I use the flash meter to determine my ratios. If my key light is reading f/8 and my fill light is reading f/4, I know if I expose at f/8 I will have a properly exposed key light and a fill that is 2 stops under. This is a basic lighting ratio setup. Add a hair light behind the subject for a three-point light setup.

This works with film or digital. I set up my Neewer flashes on stands, triggered with Cowboy Studio wireless FM triggers, and metered with my Polaris meter. The Cowboy Studio triggers aren't perfect; I average one misfire on a roll of 36. I plan on investing in some Pocket Wizards when I get studio strobes, but for shoe-mounted flash the Cowboy Studio triggers are fine.

Sell your SB700's, get some manual flashes, a meter, and some method of triggering. For the times I want an automatic flash for my camera, I use a Vivitar 285HV.

I shoot with a Pentax LX or MX; thinking of getting an MZ-S for faster flash sync in the future. I may also switch (back) to Nikon for an F100.

The only thing I miss about using manual flashes over my Pentax dedicated flashes is the modeling light feature of the Pentax.

 

[ChristopherCoy]

I've got a Sekonic L-308, and I know how to meter my AB studio strobes. And I'm good with OCF, I've just never used speed lights in manual mode. It's always been i-TTL, and I've always controlled power with the settings in the camera, not on the flash itself.