F100 Experiences?

[snegron]

Congrats on getting started! If you haven't read this Dead Link Removed give it a look. Especially the footnote about the custom settings. I also have the magic lantern guide, but I'm not sure it is ncessary.

Best,

Will

Thanks for the link! Interesting note regarding the autofocus selector. I disabled the autorewind option as well.

 

[copake_ham]

About what? Nothing to be sorry about, there are people who don`t like the power source, the truth is one, without batteries the darn thing is useless, off, Kaput!

Cheers

André

Yes, indeed it is Kaput.

And your point is?

Snegron is asking for info about the F100 which only functions WITH batteries. So bringing up a commentary about how someone only uses cameras that do not use batteries is, by definition, OFF TOPIC!

That was my only point.

Both of us have been around here long enough to know the battery thing can become an endless rant and ruin a thread that may, for those of us who own a F100, otherwise communicate some info we'd like to know!

 

[André E.C.]

Yes, indeed it is Kaput.

And your point is?

Snegron is asking for info about the F100 which only functions WITH batteries. So bringing up a commentary about how someone only uses cameras that do not use batteries is, by definition, OFF TOPIC!

That was my only point.

Both of us have been around here long enough to know the battery thing can become an endless rant and ruin a thread that may, for those of us who own a F100, otherwise communicate some info we'd like to know!

"Oh no - here we go. The "battery thing".

Isn't this OT since the OP asked about the F100 which, by definition, uses batteries?

Please, take the "battery thing" over to the RF forum where they go on and on and on and on about that.....

Originating in the mid-19th century - batteries are, as yet, an unproven technology. It is why I continue to hand-crank my automobile and use a ten mile long extension cord to power my cell phone and iPod while walking around town!"

And your point was?:rolleyes:
Why such an arrogant answer? :confused:
Relax!

Cheers

André

 

[Robert Budding]

The F100 is kaput without film, too. So pack extra film and batteries!

 

[Will S]

You need a Nikon mount compatible lens too

 

[snegron]

Well, I got my first "test roll" back from the lab yesterday. It was a roll of Kodak ISO 400 High Definition film. I think my lab screwed up because many of the pics looked dark, grainy, or muddy. One of the frames had a scratch on it (the second to last frame on the emulsion side). The lab tech tried telling me it was the camera, but I am sure it was not. If it were the camera, more frames would have been scratched, maybe even the first or last frames but not the second to last frame only.

All the shots were taken in bright sunlight. I used the center weight meter option on purpose to make sure I was exposing for my subject and not the background. I was not happy at all with the results. I know it was not the camera, just poor lab work. This was a bit sad because this is the pro lab I always use.

Anyway, I plan to shoot a few silde film rolls this weekend. There is less of a chance of any lab screwing up slides. Just to make sure I plan to use my trusty old F2A together with my F100 and take the same shots with both cameras. That way I can determine if the F100 is not exposing properly or if it is user error on my part.

The thing that bugs me though is that negative film has about two or three stops of lattitude. Why would some of my images look muddy, dark and grainy while others (shot within a fraction of a second difference on the same subject under same lighting conditions) look well exposed? If it were the film, then all images would look bad.

 

[Will S]

I think you may want to try the 3D matrix metering except if you are shooting a lot of backlit scenes. For backlit, a fill-flash or overexpose 1-2 stops will help.

Good luck,

Will

 

[Snapshot]

I own two of these great machines, one for over 6 years. They are durable and have only failed me one. The MB-15 battery holder was not tight enough and the contacts did not meet, which caused a temporary power loss. Once tightened the camera was in working order.

I find the motor winding a little noisy but other than that there are no problems. The multifunction back is no where near as useful as my old beloved F90x (with it's intervalometer and so forth) so you can probably live without it. In addition, the matrix metering on the camera is great but I usually use the spot meter for most proper shooting.

I hope this helps.

 

[haris]

Well, I got my first "test roll" back from the lab yesterday. It was a roll of Kodak ISO 400 High Definition film. I think my lab screwed up because many of the pics looked dark, grainy, or muddy. One of the frames had a scratch on it (the second to last frame on the emulsion side). The lab tech tried telling me it was the camera, but I am sure it was not. If it were the camera, more frames would have been scratched, maybe even the first or last frames but not the second to last frame only.

All the shots were taken in bright sunlight. I used the center weight meter option on purpose to make sure I was exposing for my subject and not the background. I was not happy at all with the results. I know it was not the camera, just poor lab work. This was a bit sad because this is the pro lab I always use.

Anyway, I plan to shoot a few silde film rolls this weekend. There is less of a chance of any lab screwing up slides. Just to make sure I plan to use my trusty old F2A together with my F100 and take the same shots with both cameras. That way I can determine if the F100 is not exposing properly or if it is user error on my part.

The thing that bugs me though is that negative film has about two or three stops of lattitude. Why would some of my images look muddy, dark and grainy while others (shot within a fraction of a second difference on the same subject under same lighting conditions) look well exposed? If it were the film, then all images would look bad.

Ok, this is what I would do:

1. I usually "test" camera this way: I shoot graffiti on one wall (more space than in my room ). I use biggest aperture. This way I test metering (because of wall on which graffiti is written/painted avoid backlight. Backlight test another way) and focusing of camera/lens (shooting flat object with well defined lines with biggest aperture). Since light can come only from behind me or from side I can control light conditions. If needed I wait untill light change its position or come back later.

2. Shoot different combinations speed/aperture. I shoot metered combination, few frames with different combinations which will give correct exposure, and combinations which will underexpose and overexpose. When give film in lab, I ask for contact sheet without any manipulation (esposure corrections by lab), so I get frames as they are. Or, better, prints 9x12cm (or bigger, depend of money you are willing to spend for testing) also without any lab correction of exposure or sharpening.

3. Shoot few films (2 or 3), same scene, and give them to different labs. This way you will check if lab or camera ruins the films.

4. Slide film is better for testing (avoid printing stage errors), but I can't use slide, so I use negative colour film for testing.

I am b/w shooter, but for testing I don't use b/w, this way I avoid errors during b/w film developing, colour process (C41) is standardized, less variables than b/w. Again, best is slide for testing, if you can, use slide film.

 

[snegron]

Thanks for the tips! I am running out of options for labs here though. My usual lab has been producing low quality work lately. They have been giving me many excuses about how their chemicals are not stablized, etc. I am currently looking for a good mail order lab for my slide film. Once I find a good lab I can't wait to run a few dozen rolls through my F100! So far I have only shot two rolls with it since I got it.