f-stop timer reccomendations

[Jarvman]

I've decided to pack in the Splitgrade system because I feel its not making me think enough about my printing. That and the prints I've made using it manually on grades 00 and 5 are much more pleasing than the ones spat out by the densitometer. So I'll be looking for an f-stop timer that works with a Durst laboratar 1200. Could people give me advice on what to look out for? What are the best timers available for the money?

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

Well, if you are in the UK, then your choice is down to RH designs. Darkroom Automation doesn't make an export model.

 

[Vincent Brady]

Hi Gareth
Once you start on the RH f-stop timer, there's no going back and you'll wonder how you ever managed to make prints. It even accommodates split-grade printing. You might have to rob a bank to buy one but it'll be worth it as long as you don't get caught.

Cheers
TEX

 

[Dan Henderson]

Jarvman: you do not need an f/stop timer to split grade print...or to print using the f/stop method for that matter. You can do both with any electronic timer. I split grade printed and used the f/stop method for several years before investing in the RH Designs timer. Having said that, I love my timer and you'd have to pry it from my cold, dead hands to take it from me.

 

[AmandaTom]

I just ordered the RH designs StopClock vario. Gulp. I have been f-stop and split grade printing without a fancy timer for awhile, but I am putting in a cold light head and I needed a compensating timer.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I've decided to pack in the Splitgrade system because I feel its not making me think enough about my printing. That and the prints I've made using it manually on grades 00 and 5 are much more pleasing than the ones spat out by the densitometer. So I'll be looking for an f-stop timer that works with a Durst laboratar 1200. Could people give me advice on what to look out for? What are the best timers available for the money?

I currently use an RH Designs ZoneMasterII and TimerII combination with my Durst L1200. They are a joy to use and let you fully concentrate on printing, without having to deal with f/stop calculations for the base exposure or any doge&burn exposures. Prior to that, I used a GraLab 300 with a self-made clock face for a while, but that was just a compromise. I don't want to do any darkroom work without an f/stop timing ever again!

 

[snallan]

As Nicholas says, if you are in the UK it really is just RH Designs (though if Hobson had been stuck with this choice, he would have been ecstatically happy!). I bought the RH Designs Stopclock Pro (I knew I didn't need any of that enlarger meter stuff!), and not wanting to be melodramatic about it, it has revolutionised my printing. After an hour or so actually acquainting myself with the controls, I found the timer fits in with what I want to do when printing, rather than me making compromises to fit in with the way the timer works.

I am glad I went with the separate timer rather than the Analyser Pro combined enlarger meter and timer, as the Stopclock has the two channels, and more memories making it more flexible than the combined unit. So. When I bought the Zonemaster II recently (yeah, I know, no truck with that enlarger meter schtick, ect!!), I found myself in the wonderful position of having the best of both worlds! I can use the meter linked up to the timer, which is great for proofing a lot of negatives in a session (not just proofs, but good working prints), and for the more creative work, use the timer alone, or with the meter seperately.

What I am really saying is, buy the StopClock. It is a timer that works with you. You may never need an enlarging exposure meter, but if you ever do, you can add the ZoneMaster, and not notice the difference in your working methods (apart from the fact that it is so much smoother)!

 

[RalphLambrecht]

As Nicholas says, if you are in the UK it really is just RH Designs (though if Hobson had been stuck with this choice, he would have been ecstatically happy!). I bought the RH Designs Stopclock Pro (I knew I didn't need any of that enlarger meter stuff!), and not wanting to be melodramatic about it, it has revolutionised my printing. After an hour or so actually acquainting myself with the controls, I found the timer fits in with what I want to do when printing, rather than me making compromises to fit in with the way the timer works.

I am glad I went with the separate timer rather than the Analyser Pro combined enlarger meter and timer, as the Stopclock has the two channels, and more memories making it more flexible than the combined unit. So. When I bought the Zonemaster II recently (yeah, I know, no truck with that enlarger meter schtick, ect!!), I found myself in the wonderful position of having the best of both worlds! I can use the meter linked up to the timer, which is great for proofing a lot of negatives in a session (not just proofs, but good working prints), and for the more creative work, use the timer alone, or with the meter seperately.

What I am really saying is, buy the StopClock. It is a timer that works with you. You may never need an enlarging exposure meter, but if you ever do, you can add the ZoneMaster, and not notice the difference in your working methods (apart from the fact that it is so much smoother)!

That's exactly right!

 

[Jarvman]

Thanks Steve, that was the advice I was looking for! Was getting a bit confused about what to get. Can't see myself using the Anylysers meter much either. Stopclock it is then.