Exposure Testing Kodak Plus-X Aerographic 2402

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I've acquired a large bulk roll of this film (9.5"x100') and after researching it online, I've found a lot of conflicting reports on how to expose it for pictorial use varying from recommended exposure indexes of 125 to 6. Part of this comes from the fact that this film is designed for aerial usage and has an effective aerial film speed (EAFS) of 200 which relies on developing to a very high contrast (gamma appx. 1.5). Part of it also comes from the wide variety of developers that I have seen used with this film.

Kodak-Plus-X-Aerographic-Film-2402-1.png


What I have not seen are side by side comparisons of exposing at different exposure indexes and developing under identical circumstances for comparison. So I'm trying to provide some of that. The caveat is that this roll of film has an expiration date of 10/1998 so may have base fog levels which affect the testing, but since this film was discontinued in 2011, all of it probably has some base fog at this point. It did not seem especially fogged in my opinion.

So I tested this film under ordinary outdoor daylight conditions (bright sun, a few clouds) using my RB Graflex Series D at exposure indexes of 100, 50 and 25. The film was developed using HC-110 Dilution H at 68f for 10 minutes, which corresponds for the recommended time for this developer and dilution when used with ordinary Kodak Plus-X film, since a large proportion of people recommend using standard Plus-X times as a starting point.

The film was scanned on my Epson V500 using the standard Epson Scan software without manual adjustments being applied to attempt to give as uniform scans between each example as possible.


Test 1 Scan - SM.jpg Test 2 Scan - SM.jpg Test 3 Scan - SM.jpg Test 4 Scan - SM.jpg


I then made contact prints of these negatives onto Ilford Multigrade RC paper at grade 2 filtration with exposure time adjusted to accommodate the difference in negative density. Prints were developed for 1 minute each in Kodak Polymax T 1:9 and then scanned the prints. I believe that a properly exposed negative should print well on grade 2 paper. I have no doubt that with filtration for more or less contrast would improve some of the prints, but the point was to show a comparison between prints so as many variables were kept uniform as possible.

Test 1 Print - SM.jpg Test 2 Print - SM.jpg Test 3 Print - SM.jpg Test 4 Print - SM.jpg



My impressions of this film are that it is inherently contrasty with low exposure latitude. In bright sun, it is easy to crush the shadows or blow the highlights if you are not careful. I won't say that it has no antihalation layer, but its ability to prevent halation is limited and you will see halation around light sources or reflections. Using this development method I think I prefer exposing it at an EI of 50-64 if I intend to scan it, but prefer exposing at an EI of 25-32 if I intend on making prints.

I think that this film could greatly benefit from a low contrast developer such as D-23, which is something that I would like to test in the future.
 
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koraks

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I believe that a properly exposed negative should print well on grade 2 paper.

That's a matter of preference and perhaps definitions. But most importantly, it's also a function of development. Simply put, exposure determines where the shadows land. Development determines gamma, and thus the required paper grade to make everything fit in the print's tonal scale.
Given how the contact prints look, I'd say development was on the short/weak side. But what gives; you can dial in some more contrast.

In bright sun, it is easy to crush the shadows or blow the highlights if you are not careful.

Also depending on metering. This is the main black box in your comparison. You mention EI's, but how did you meter?

prefer exposing at an EI of 25-32 if I intend on making prints.

That's not going to do much good for the halation/blooming issues. Given the contact prints, I'd suggest trying EI100 and giving 30% more development if you want to aim for grade 2. Or just try some of those existing EI100 negatives at grade 3-4 and see how you like the results. Again - metering is a big factor.
 

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5 inch 2402 PlusX Aerographic 5x7 Norma 500mm TeleXenar HC110 H by Nokton48, on Flickr

Second set of 5x7 2402 Kodak Plus-X Aerographic, loaded into Lisco film holders. Exposed in 5x7 Sinar Norma with Schneider 500mm Tele-Xenar in Compound 5 shutter, freshly overhauled by Mac at Camtronics. Tim Kelly style Broncolor Portrait lighting, exposure at F16 and F22, Developed in Unicolor 8x10 Unidrum, HC-110 "H" dilution 9 1/2 mins at 68F. Unicolor Uniroller spins the Unidrum. I think F16 came out quite well. Need to load some more of this up for additional testing. I like the tonality and the way the Aerographic sees through the Yellow Filter. Will contact print these up as I have time. A sheet of this film costs 35 cents.
 
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Also depending on metering. This is the main black box in your comparison. You mention EI's, but how did you meter?

Reflective metering using a handheld averaging meter. Not necessarily the best way of doing it, spot metering and using the zone system would give more finely controllable results but it’s how I tend to meter most of the time and thus a consistent part of my methodology.
 

koraks

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Reflective metering using a handheld averaging meter. Not necessarily the best way of doing it, spot metering and using the zone system would give more finely controllable results but it’s how I tend to meter most of the time and thus a consistent part of my methodology.

Thanks; I understand the consistency argument.
 
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Tried this film again, developing this time in D-23 stock for 7 minutes (the recommended time for Plus-X). Lighting conditions were as close as possible to the previous test given the difference in time of year. Metering was the same as before.

I only had time to make scans thus far, not make any prints.


Image 1 SM.jpg Image 2 SM.jpg Image 3 SM.jpg Image 4 SM.jpg


My conclusion is that I slightly prefer this film in D-23, but it's not the magic bullet that tames this contrasty film. It builds density very quickly in the highlights and the shadows lag behind. At EI100, the negatives are very thin. I'd still stick to around EI 50-64, as that seems to be the best balance between highlight and shadow detail.

You could of course increase exposure and reduce development time to cut contrast, but that comes at the expense of reduced film speed, which isn't ideal for my application where I'm wanting to shoot handheld with a 165mm lens, which requires a decently small aperture to get any depth of field.
 
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Thank you for this post and for these tests!

I have 4x 100ft rolls of this film in 70mm on the way from India(thought I was buying from Thailand since I know there have been reports of poor storage of other large caches of aerial film from India...but the deal is done). What I'm getting is SLIGHTLY newer, but at this point I don't know if 20 years expired vs. 25 makes a big difference. What I have has been bouncing around the local USPS distribution centers for the past week or so, so I'm hoping it's going to arrive soon.

Your tests hopefully will give me a good starting point. Rather than loading up a whole 70mm roll, I'm thinking too I may cut some for 2x3 sheets to test in my Century Graphic to figure out an ideal EI of this film. Your tests definitely give me a good starting point, though.

I do have some D23 mixed up that I've not used, but I'm also wondering how this film would fare in D76 diluted 1:1(my standard dilution even for more "normal" films like Tri-X) or in D96. The latter is intended to be a low contrast developer. It contains a small amount of potassium bromide, which should suppress base fog a bit anyway and also IME does help to tame contrast.

If you are not bothered by my doing so, I'm happy to post my results in this thread when I am able to play around with it, or if you would prefer can start a separate thread...
 
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Researching low contrast developers, POTA was one of note I am considering. However, I also came across a reference to a developer called TLDC-103, which is made with:

Metol - 1g
Sodium Sulfite - 5g
Sodium Bicarbonate - 10g
Water to make - 1000ml

Since I would need to order Phenidone to make POTA, and I already have these on hand, I may try this developer with the Plus-X Aero first. It's also remarkably inexpensive to make based on the quantities required.
 

Andrew O'Neill

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I think you mean, TDLC-103, no? I've used it as well as POTA for developing Adox CMS 20 sheet film. Both did a good job with this high contrast film.
 
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Mine finally arrived, and I opened one this afternoon. It was “fun” as the roll I opened was just a bagged loose roll with no core of any sort that I could feel. Kodak 100ft 70mm rolls are normally on a very nice double flanged spool. I was expecting the same for this as it’s in an otherwise standard Kodak 70mm can. Fortunately I guess this coreless 70mm is common enough that the Mercury bulk loader has an adapter for it.

As a side note, the Mercury instructions specifically call out surplus Agfa aerial films as often coming coreless like this. Given that a lot of 70mm Aviphot 200 has come out of India, the box speed+extended red sensitivity make me wonder if this film was a contract product to be more or less a stand-in for the Agfa product. I might try shooting some treating it as such.

I loaded up two full cartridges of this(15ft each) to play with and put one in an A70 Hasselblad back. My plan is probably to shoot some, tomorrow if possible, with 10-20 frame cuts at a few different EIs with some different developers. That length lets me use my old faithful Yankee Clipper tank(with the reel on the 116 setting) and a much more miserly 16 oz. of chemistry rather than the 1.75 liters the big Mercury tank that can handle 13ft requires.

I’ll follow up with my findings as soon as I can.
 
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Sharing this while it quite literally is still wet, but I'm quite pleased with my initial test frames at EI 100 developed in D76 1:3 for 12 minutes. I think this is a bit under-developed, but contrast looks good to me...of course the real test will be scanning and/or printing.

The next frame down was EI 50 and just a quick look makes me think that's not a great option. The lower EI seemed to increase contrast without improving shadow detail.

I'm also finding the fogging around the sprocket holes a bit interesting. This A70 back has fresh light seals, so I don't think it's a leak. I have seen interesting sprocket hole artifacts on other films when run through an A70 badly in need of service with its original toothed frame counter wheel, but I think I can discount that here since, aside from a fresh service, this back has a rubber frame wheel(all perf wheel) and the artifacts are on both sides. I wonder if this is some sort of light piping during exposure...
 

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It is on an Estar base, so I'd expect more light piping than acetate, but I guess as long as it's in the perf area and not the image, then it doesn't really matter.
 
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Actually, I watched Andrew's video on testing X-ray film and D-23 a couple weeks ago, and it prompted me to try another test with D-23 and the Plus-X Aerographic, rather than try the TDLC-103 which has limited data available for it.

This time, I tried D-23 at 1:3 dilution rather than stock, for 16 minutes at 68F and I reduced agitation to five inversions once every three minutes versus the five inversions every minute which I normally do.

Lighting conditions were bright sun as with the previous tests.

I think this is a lot closer to what I'm looking for. Subjectively, the negatives look a lot more "normal" too in terms of density. I continue to think that an EI of 50-64 is about optimal for this film. Highlights look too burned (but here are still retaining detail) at EI25 and too little shadow detail at EI100.

(Also, my cut film magazine apparently has a light leak as evidenced by the line in the first exposure, please disregard that.)

Scan 1 - SM.jpg Scan 2 - SM.jpg Scan 3 - SM.jpg Scan 4 - SM.jpg
 

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Thanks for this test. I also have a bulk roll of this. My opinion from the material you have posted is to rate it at iso 40. I like your “see how it prints at grade 2” thought but I think you should also try make your best print for each particular negative and see which print you like best.

Probably the best early developing advice I got was that developer matters relatively little so don’t put too much time into trying alternatives. I do like your d23 prints best though. My developer is hc110 b (1:31) with 20s initial agitation and then inversions every two minutes. Someone did a massive developer comparison on YouTube and there were differences but not much. It motivated me to buy some Kodak xtol which had better shadow detail compared to hc110 but I haven’t tried it yet

I like your cars photos as a good judge of tones. See how people look with it or interesting lighting in shade
 
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Enjoying seeing your results!

Honestly my second roll of this was mostly exposed at EI 100 and developed in D76 1:1. I don't have my time handy, but I used massive dev chart times for Plus-X as a starting point.

Most negatives were decent density, but I'm thinking that EI 80 might bring things up a bit more in mine. One of my personal reference photos is the bark of the 100 year old red oak in my back yard, and I know what it looks like on about every film stock I've shot since moving here 4 years ago. I metered by an incident meter, exposed unfiltered and through red and yellow filters(applying the filter factor marked on them), and in this case corrected 1/3 stop for the focused distance of the 120mm Planar-S I was using. All of them were a bit sparse on bark detail, which again makes me think a little more exposure should be beneficial.

I have to admit that on the whole, this film doesn't seem AS difficult to tame as I was afraid it might be given the comments I've seen about it being "difficult" or "temperamental."
 
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I metered by an incident meter, exposed unfiltered and through red and yellow filters(applying the filter factor marked on them), and in this case corrected 1/3 stop for the focused distance of the 120mm Planar-S I was using.

One thing of note is that this film does have extended red sensitivity, so you should need to use less compensation when using certain filtration. It will also render red subjects as lighter. I haven't tried it on skin tones as I don't shoot portraiture, but it would be interesting to see what effect that had on faces.
 
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