Exposure metering

[Robert Ivy]

I was just wondering why I can't take my Sekonic Spot Meter, point it at the subject thru my viewfinder and take the exposure reading. It seems that I'm always trying to adding stops for different filters/lens. Your thoughts appreciated.
Thanx, Bob

 

[Mick Fagan]

I have a Gossen Profi-Six with a spot meter attachment.

I was wondering the same thing as you and set it up to take a reading through the eyepiece of my Nikon F3. This I did about 10 years ago.

The reading was reasonably close, however I got a better (read more close) reading, when I attached my Profi-Flex attachment, which is a fibre optic attachment meant to take readings from the GG screen of large format cameras, among other things.

I think the profi-Flex attachment, which takes a circular reading of about 8mm, gave a more averaged and accurate reading.

I would suggest to suck it and see, you may be pleasantly surprised.

Mick.

 

[David Henderson]

Unless the amount of light which passes through the viewfinder is the same as that which reaches the film this isn't going to work. Many viewfinders are less bright than this- which is why there's an industry to supply 3rd party replacement screens.

So give it a try though be prepared for it to require a compensation in itself. I don't imagine that you're the first person to think of this and yet few people do it- which indicates some issues along the way I'd guess.

 

[Chan Tran]

I only have 35mm equipment but I would try and see. Do you think it's better to meter thru the eyepiece of directly off the ground glass? I am sure that I would need to set some compensation but it would not be a problem.

 

[wclavey]

How's this for compulsive...

I use a Luna Pro SBC with an offset adjustment. When I am going to be doing a lot of work with my C220 or C3 that requires a lot of bellows extension or filters, I follow this procedure:

1. I meter the scene normally with the meter.
2. Then I meter the scene on the ground glass with the bellows racked all the way in, even if it is out of focus, and I set the difference between the straight reading and the GG reading as the offset... my GG factor. Now I can take readings off the GG.
3. If I need to rack the bellows out or put filters on, I re-meter the scene on the ground glass and the new readings as the exposure I need due to the bellows or filter factor.

I'm certain I'm not the first person to think of this but it works really well if I am doing combinations of things, especially when the bellows adjustment or the filter factor are not simply whole stops. I have also used it successfully with my 4x5, but now that I have gotten a Satin Snow GG, I need to recalibrate the GG factor.

 

[Robert Ivy]

Thanx for all the input. I like your idea Westley and will try it this weekend. I do have the Acute-brite focusing screen so it will be interesting to see how it works out.
Bob