Exposing Pro 160S

I rate all my Fuji Pro 160S ISO at a 1/3 stop slower. The little overexposure seems to work for me.

I shoot the 8x10 version. This is a gallery all shot on 160S (except the portraits): Dead Link Removed

 

Yes, this is a matter of taste. I print all of my color negatives as I do not have a Nikon 9000 (yet). I prefer to expose the 160 S between 100 and 125. It gives me better shadow detail than box speed and I have little fear of blowing out any highlights. You should see the same benefit for a slight over exposure shooting color negatives as you do shooting black & white.

Just a note, I started shooting the 160 C and was quite happy with it. I picked a pack of the 160 S out of curiosity and was also quite pleased. I now shoot more of the "S" than the "C." In many cases, I find the "C" just a bit too snappy and saturated for my taste.

I prefer printing a thicker negative, but I don't know if this will effect the scanning process.

 

I've shot 160S both at box speed and at 100. I don't see a lot of difference, truth be told, reflecting the latitude this film has. It is a forgiving film and quite beautiful.

Thomas's experience almost exactly parallels mine with this film; the "S" is now my default "slow" color neg film. I find its saturation and "snappiness" (good word Thomas!) to be intermediate between my old standards, the Portra NC and VC films. I think it's a bit more "neutral" than those two, themselves fine films otherwise. I tried a few rolls of the 160C and it didn't grab me.

For simplicity's sake I've standardized on the 160S and the 400H as my everyday C41 films; I keep Portra VC's on hand in both speeds for when I want a bit more punch (like with the endless slate gray days we've had lately---my SAD is kicking in!). I used to be a Portra NC fan, but now find it too blah and wan for my liking in most cases, and it's too much hassle to keep a slew of different films on hand. All of these do a nice job with skin tones as well.

I'm eager to give Ektar 100 a try in 120 when it's out next month, just as another option. Not a fan of aggressively saturated colors, so we'll see how that goes.

Scanning and other digital operations are strictly off limits here, so I'll just say that with the 9000 you'll likely find that a bit thinner negative is preferred over a thicker one, which is opposite what is often desired for optical printing.

 

It all depends on how you meter and the luminance range of the scene...not to mention your printing paper (or whether or not you want to scan). The reason lots of people have better results at a lower EI setting is because they don't have the time (or sometimes the ability...) to carefully expose, and being a little over will not hurt the neg all that much. Other people do it deliberately because it lowers contrast. When using an incident meter or sunny 16, I rate it at 125, because I like to have an EI that matches a shutter speed, and the extra 1/3 stop will help to cover any slop that my brain introduces. If it is a contrasty scene, I don't rerate; I just manually overexpose for that one shot. When using a spot meter, I use EI 160 and usually place a tone to decide an exposure.

Additionally, don't be afraid to push or pull your E-6 films to alter contrast if necessary. They can handle this far better than C-41 films. I pull E-6 almost every time I use one of the slower speed emulsions (and usually push 400X). I have had very good results pulling Velvia 100F two stops; couldn't even tell it was pulled based on the color. I believe one stop is the most I have pulled Velvia 50. I don't know that film very well, but it might handle two.

 

I'd definitely take the 160s along to the desert. Don't forget that you can get very contrasty lighting out there, and 160s will be able to handle it.

Velvia 50... I don't know, I'd be concerned what it will do with desert highlights (my choice is velvia 100 and astia 100F and i've also had good results with provia 100F and 400x, but v50 is not a particular friend of mine). Well, just experiment and enjoy yourself and report back to us

Incidentally, I shoot 160s at box speed if people are in the scene or 125 if not and if I want a bit more definition in the colours. Just bracket and all will be clear when you print the negs.

 

Sorry to hear about your illness and change of plans. Get well soon.