Exposed wrong ISO- Newbie please help!

[Fred Taylor]

Hey everyone! Question about developing film shot at the wrong ISO.

I am shooting tri-x 400 in my Mamiya 645 1000s but accidentally exposed half the roll while metering at 100 ISO

What do I do about this? I’m pretty new to film and developing. Would stand developing with Rodinal or DD-X help? Or do I pull it two stops? (Which I don’t know how to do but can learn)

Should I shoot the rest of the roll exposing for 400 iso or do I continue this whole roll at 100 and develop it that way? I hiked damn far for these images and really don’t want to lose them. Should I send this roll out to someone who knows what their doing rather than trying t myself? That would be less than ideal but I’m willing to do it

I’ve heard of people stand developing rolls that have been shot at different ISO’s but I don’t really know the technical details/fundamentals of why that works

What are the advantages and disadvantages of pulling over stand developing and vice versus?

Thanks I’m advanced for your responses and advice!

 

[Sirius Glass]

Develop normally, while the film is overexposed it is still within the exposure latitude. I am sure that you will not make that error again.

Welcome to APUG

 

[BrianShaw]

Keep shooting at 100 and adjust your development. If you change speed now you’ll get some “this way” and some “that way”.

I don’t know why you don’t think sending the film out would be a bad idea. They do that kind of stuff every day of the week and know what to do.

 

[bvy]

Some people shoot Tri-X at 100 on purpose. Continue shooting the roll at 100. You can develop normally or back off the times a bit. Or buy some Perceptol.

 

[MattKing]

Welcome to Photrio!
A two stop over-exposure will probably give you dense but printable negatives if you use normal development. The results might be a bit more grainy, but still usable.
If the light and conditions were fairly contrasty, you could reduce the density a bit by reducing your development time by 20%. You can then make that up by increasing contrast at the printing stage.
If the original conditions were low in contrast, develop normally.
A developer like Perceptol or (to a small extent) HC-110 dil B will decrease the film sensitivity somewhat.
Are you printing optically or scanning? Dense negatives are easier to deal with if you are printing optically.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Over exposing Tri-X by 2 stops is still within the the latitude of the film. Just develop normally and avoid the urge to pull the film. Pulling the film will compoound the error.

 

[howardpan]

I would suggest you just finish the roll at EI 100. For BW negatives, over exposure would allow you to have more details in the shadow area. You should not have a problem with losing details in the highlights. You can also develop for a little less time to ensure the negatives do not get too dense.

 

[Saganich]

My experience with TriX is the ISO is around 200 anyway so shot at 100 isn't too bad. When I did this, exactly as you did, I didn't even realize my mistake until looking at negs. It was noticeable: undesirable in high contrast scenes but desirable in shady low light scenes. I would shoot the rest of the roll at 100 and only pull the development one stop or 2 IF you think you were shooting in very high contrast. Like Howard stated above unless your in extreme contrast the TriX will be OK. Rather than stand (not going into that debate) use a dilute DDX, the massive dev chart has DDX dilutions for triX at 200. I would go with that.

 

[JensH]

Some people shoot Tri-X at 100 on purpose. Continue shooting the roll at 100. You can develop normally or back off the times a bit. Or buy some Perceptol.

+1