But how one controls the micro-contrast in film & darkroom?
For film - the lighting conditions, film, lens contrast, developer and how long you develop the film.
For prints, the light source, the enlarger, the paper, the paper grade, the developer and the developing time.
In other words, you use the same controls for contrast as you have probably used before. But you evaluate the results based on how those mid-tones and lower highlights render, not on how wide the dMax to dMin range in the negative or print is.
In most cases, if you choose over-all contrast based on those criteria, darkroom prints will turn out very well, with shadows and highlights falling at or close to the desired density.
If you are scanning from a well exposed and well developed negative, the scan will give similar results - that of course is what I have been saying from the start in this thread.
When you get to the point where you are really fine-tuning your final results, this approach goes hand in hand with split contrast printing, because it frequently leads to making different (micro) contrast choices for different parts of the image.
Similarly in the digital world, one can fine tune your results by using layers to make different (micro) contrast choices for different parts of the image.