Expired HP5 + Do we need to adjust dev time?

[peter k.]

Going to use up some old 4x5 HP5+ that's been in the freezer, it expired in 2013.
Have three developers available, D-76, Hc-110 and Xtol.
Suggestions on which would be the best to use, and is there a need to extend developing time.
Thanks p.

 

[Pioneer]

I am using 4x5 HP5+ that expired back in 2002. I expose it at EI-200 and develop it for that exposure index. I normally use D-23 1+3 that I mix fresh but I also use HC-110. Both developers work just fine for me and I suspect Xtol or D-76 would as well though I don't use either.

The only way to know how to expose or develop what you have is to test it but I doubt you will have a problem with the film to be honest.

 

[eli griggs]

From several tests I've seen, comparing 'fresh' b&w films, vs. old, expired films, it seems that no only can you expose as if they were fresh, ie. your HP5 at 200 ISO, and that matching set of requirements for development at that ISO, should be fine, but, you can always shoot several test frames, clip and develop those, along side fresh film, both in the same tank, to see for yourself if that suits your taste.

The last test I saw doing this, but no the only one, the photographer found that the expired film seamed to have had 'seasoned' into an even better result.

However, if I were so concerned that my 'Master Piece' would somehow be on and ruined by having that old film in my camera, so much so, that I could no shoot it in any sort of peace of mind, I'd just wrap it up and send it to myself, Eli Griggs, for USPS charges, if any, so it was out of my reach and temptation, forcing me to buy and use only fresh, and leave the risk taking to myself, Eli Griggs, alone with any experimenting I was too cautious to do in the first place.

That's what I'd do, (HINT = HINT) on a slow Saturday Night.

Seriously, it should be fine.

IMO.

 

[Donald Qualls]

The general rule is that, while old film may require extra exposure due to fogging (which increases the level of exposure needed to bring the image up out of the fog), it generally does not require extra development. You will need to adjust development time to regain normal contrast if you add benzotriazole to cut down on fog, of course, and if you cold develop (which, with BZT, can reduce fog level of even very badly age fogged films to nearly that of new stock) you'll obviously have to compensate for temperature.

The beauty of sheet film is that you can shoot a sheet or a couple sheets as tests, find the process that gives acceptable results, and then know where you are with the rest of the box. Of the developers you have, I'd recommend HC-110 (at least if it's pre-2018 vintage); in my experience with film exposed up to fifty years previous, it does a very good job controlling fog without adding restrainer.

Beyond that, however, 2013 isn't that old, especially if the film has been in the freezer; unless you live near Chernobyl or on tailings from a pitchblende mine, it's unlikely to have a level of fog that will be troublesome. As noted above, start by shooting one sheet at your normal speed for HP5 and give your normal development, then adjust from there. I've had good results from Tri-X that was twenty years past date, and from Fomapan nearly that old (recently shot .EDU Ultra film that expired around 2007 and stored at room temperature -- no special handling needed). With freezer storage, you're likely to find your HP5+ sheets don't need anything but normal handling.

 

[ic-racer]

I have some HP5 from around 1984. The base is around 0.6 to 0.7. I have an H&D curve on my disk somewhere I could post. Due the the fact that increase development time will make the base density worse, I'd probably process for your usual time or even less.

 

[Ian Grant]

Treat like fresh, unless poorly stored HP5 keeps well.

Ian

 

[Agulliver]

What Ian said. I've shot 30+ year old HP5 with decent results. The caveat is....how was it stored? If kept in a freezer and thoroughly thawed before loading it is almost certainly going to be like new.

The old rule of thumb regarding a stop loss of sensitivity per decade usually refers to colour negative film stored in "cool" conditions.

Shoot a sheet or two and see what happens. Try 400ISO and Ilford's recommended time/regimen for your favourite developer.

 

[peter k.]

Thanks all, ya all given me confidence that its no big deal ...
Two thumbs up for these responses:

However, if I were so concerned that my 'Master Piece' would somehow be on and ruined by having that old film in my camera, so much so, that I could no shoot it in any sort of peace of mind, I'd just wrap it up and send it to myself,

however, 2013 isn't that old, especially if the film has been in the freezer; unless you live near Chernobyl or on tailings from a pitchblende mine,