Experience With Knob Winds?

[R.Gould]

I have several knob wind cameas, a couple of Vito's, a retina, contina contessa, and to be honest It doesn't make any difference to me, in fact the Contina and Contessa, have the knobs on the bottom of the camera, and after a bit of practice you can wind the film on ans set the shutter with the camera at your eye
Richard

 

[Peltigera]

I prefer knob winders to the awful lever winder on Paxette cameras. And to the winder on an Exakta Varex, come to that.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

I'm swearing more often with lever, not with knob. Fingers slips from those tiny little levers and film inside of the cassette is getting loose.

 

[Peltigera]

Most rewind cranks are awful and I much prefer a knob. What is really nice is the large rewind crank on a Contessa LKE which sits recessed in the base until required. It is large enough for my non-too-little fingers to hold firmly and easily.

 

[4strinbass]

I really appreciate all the input folks. I've always been a fan of cameras that leave special mechanics out and focus on build quality and function instead.

 

[cliveh]

I prefer the knob actually, less total arm movement and the knob feels good in my hands.

 

[Pioneer]

To be honest, it takes no longer to rewind my M3 using the knob than the motor will rewind a roll of 35mm in my Nikon F6. Funny that no one ever complains about the slow rewind on an F6.

 

[Xmas]

To be honest, it takes no longer to rewind my M3 using the knob than the motor will rewind a roll of 35mm in my Nikon F6. Funny that no one ever complains about the slow rewind on an F6.

The F6 probably does not have bad arthritis?

 

[Pioneer]

The F6 probably does not have bad arthritis?

I'm not completely sure of that. Based on the noises that come out of it while rewinding it may indeed have a touch of arthritis.

However, point well made. An M3 would not be my first choice if I had that problem.

 

[klop]

Just my two cents...... if you use a older contax rangefinder, you can advance the film into a contax cassette and never need to rewind...... if that would work for you (film development).. and you may be able to use the Kiev4 lenses you already have......

 

[elekm]

Would love it if the Zeiss Ikon Contax IIa had a lever wind, but it doesn't. Regardless, it's my favorite camera.

However, I really like having a rewind crank. Rewinding by knob always takes so much time. With some cameras (Zeiss Ikon Super Nettel and Nettax), the rewind knob is partially blocked, and rewinding film takes even longer!

If you need to take shot after shot after shot, go with a lever wind. If you aren't in a big hurry, a knob wind is fine.

 

[Xmas]

Just my two cents...... if you use a older contax rangefinder, you can advance the film into a contax cassette and never need to rewind...... if that would work for you (film development).. and you may be able to use the Kiev4 lenses you already have......

The Kievs (cept for AM) allow cassette to cassette and contax cassettes (or the Kievs clones) just like a real contax rangefinder.

The J12 is not compatible with the IIa.

 

[4strinbass]

I just picked up my first knob wind. Definitely liking it more than a lever wind. I have no clue why anyone would ever think badly about them.

 

[klop]

Arthritis could be an issue for some I'm sure.....

 

[4strinbass]

Naturally

 

[Fixcinater]

So...what did you get?

 

[4strinbass]

I picked up a Canon VT. I've been using the knob a lot more than its trigger though I find the trigger pretty handy. I like that you can bring the knob up and put it away when you don't need it.

It came with a Canon 50/1.8 but the aperture ring is particularly stiff. I think I'll grab an Industar at some point or a new Canon 50 depending on pricing and what I find.

 

[Xmas]

It is not unknown that the iris needs service. They are cult lenses and more expensive than in past...
Super performance for mid 50s design.

 

[4strinbass]

I was assuming it was due to a mechanism failing rather than there just being a lubrication issue. I've handled them before so it should be no problem.

I'll check the aperture ring itself first and then the aperture blades.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

I was assuming it was due to a mechanism failing rather than there just being a lubrication issue. I've handled them before so it should be no problem.

I'll check the aperture ring itself first and then the aperture blades.

Here's some internet advise to ignore: "Stiff aperture rings can often be loosened up by working them back and forth".
This ends badly when the stiffness is caused by degraded lubricants which have crept onto the aperture blades, which tie themselves in knots as you work the ring back and forth.

 

[4strinbass]

Here's some internet advise to ignore: "Stiff aperture rings can often be loosened up by working them back and forth".
This ends badly when the stiffness is caused by degraded lubricants which have crept onto the aperture blades, which tie themselves in knots as you work the ring back and forth.

Naturally, my friend. A solvent based solution was going to be my approach. Possibly just alcohol and then move up the proper solvent ladder from there.

 

[BrianShaw]

Be careful with alcohol... lots of H2O tends to go with it.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

Naturally, my friend. A solvent based solution was going to be my approach. Possibly just alcohol and then move up the proper solvent ladder from there.

For your amusement - (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Brian's right about alcohol, also it's not a great solvent for petroleum stuff nor the old soap type greases. Denatured is probably best, almost all isopropyl rubbing alcohol already comes with water. For that matter, lacquer thinner while an aggressive solvent will absorb water from the atmosphere pretty rapidly.