Estimating Focus

[RalphLambrecht]

Ok, have had a few rangefinder-less 120 folders and just took delivery of another - a Perkeo II, which I think is just the cutest little 120 camera.
I don't know why I keep putting myself through this.
I just processed a roll of ISO 100 film I put through it, just to make sure it is functional - and it is. Problem is - my ability to estimate the focus distance, which is in meters, is horrible, especially at close distances. I know that close-up is where focus becomes more critical, but it is still very disappointing to be off by 6-8" and have your dogs or girlfriends face out of focus. Granted, both of those pics were between 1-2 meters. The pictures I took at distances of from a few meters to infinity look great.
I am trying to avoid using a shoe-mounted rangefinder, mainly because I no longer have one and am not in the mood to spend the money - and because I really want to be able to use the camera as it was designed to be used.

So, is there any tips outside of:
a - External mounted rangefinder
b - Use a tape measure for close-ups
c - Always shoot at small apertures
d - Always shoot at father distant subjects
e - Practice

I really want to love this camera...

No, I think you've got them all

 

[ME Super]

Hyperfocal works pretty well with wide-angle lenses in 35mm. I have a 28mm lens sitting on my desk right now, which I use for IR photography from time to time. According to the DOF scale, at f/8 and hyperfocal distance, everything from 5 feet to infinity is in focus. At f/16, everything from about 3 feet to infinity is in focus. At f/4, everything from 10 feet to infinity is in focus. So hyperfocal can absolutely work for small apertures and/or short lenses.

 

[Dan Daniel]

One of the problems with depth of field, and hyperfocal as a type of depth of field, is that 'sharpness' will depend on enlargement. I remember that the Rolleiflex manuals discuss this. They say that their convenient depth of field scale on the focus knob edge is good for enlargements up to 8x10 or so. Larger enlargements and you need to use the next larger (lower number) aperture. Circle of confusion, magnification, etc. are all part of this. There is no true depth of field. There is an acceptable range of fuzziness, to use the technical term.

The OP needs to practice, use a string, use a rangefinder, etc. to deal with portaits at larger apertures, seems to me.

 

[02Pilot]

My simple tip for scale focus cameras is to use faster film. Shooting with 400 vs. 100 film buys you two stops, which in turn you can use to increase your DoF with a smaller aperture. Makes a bigger difference than you might think.

 

[removed account4]

e - Practice

hi ransel

you said it in your original post: practice.
i am absolutely terrible at judging distances.
maybe its because i am nearsighted in 1 eye
and farsighted in the other, maybe it is because
i never did it, so i never got used to it so i stink at it.
i have been using a guess focus agfa rangefinder lately
and the more i use it the better i get. when i use a camera that i
actually can focus the lens, i preset the lens now and see how far off i am
im off some of the time but not as much as i was when i originally started doing it.
so like anything.. practice and you'll hopefully get better.

have fun !
john

 

[MattKing]

My first few cameras when I was growing up had no rangefinder.

I've always been pretty good at estimating distances and dimensions - it extends even to furniture in moving trucks and stores.

So the secret is: go back to when you were 8 years old and start practicing.

 

[ransel]

Your eyes and a fixed object can be used as a rangefinder. That is how I do it, but after a while I'm good enough to guess. Teach your self to recognize common distances. 3', 6' 12' 25' etc.

Here is a link to make the paper rangefinder.
https://tomchuk.com/misc/rf/

I have used the human rangefinder for several scale focus cameras in the past. A problem I am having now, with the human rangefinder, is the lines on the card I print out are so small and hard for my tired old eyes to see accurately. Plus, my hand tends to move slightly between the time I view with my left eye and then view with my right eye. Just not as steady as I once was either.

Anyway, thanks for the tips. I think I am going to employ a string, perhaps with knots tied at distances that correspond with a few of the portrait distances on the lens...and then just practice.

 

[John Koehrer]

Why suggest the DOF is from infinity to a closer distance?
When I hyperfocalize I choose a distance closer to the main subject. Something
in the foreground, person walking. statue etc.
If the subject is 30 feet away focus at 25 not infinity, assuming you're not using f4. like in the earlier example.