Ergonomics of using a Leica MP

[Tom Stanworth]

The M7 is far better for this application. If the logo and red dot are a big deal, then your probably not ready for this elite tool. It will not be as fast as the F6, since the F6 is a do everything. I would say these are just different tools.[until recently I owned an F6. They're both great cameras.]

I don't agree at all (for B&W). If anything, auto exposure send your meter readings all over the place depending on the angle of the light, side, backlighting etc whereas the shadow readings you need for full shadows change much less than you meter will suggest. Used in manual mode the M7 is just like a MP/M6. I get FAR more consistent exposures shooting in manual by paying attention to the shadows and periodically updating the meter setting when and only when, the shadows I wish to ercord change. TTL is basically averaging and averaging has little place for B&W.

 

[ymc226]

Thanks everyone. I acquired several Leica M's and wide angle lenses and am having a great time shooting my kids. I like the feel of the camera so far. Also using hyperfocal focusing at times to improve the speed of my shots.

 

[Tim Gray]

I don't agree at all (for B&W).

...

I get FAR more consistent exposures shooting in manual by paying attention to the shadows and periodically updating the meter setting when and only when, the shadows I wish to ercord change. TTL is basically averaging and averaging has little place for B&W.

How is B&W any different than color in this respect?

I don't think anyone will argue that taking the time to meter precisely and shooting in manual will give you better exposure than trusting your camera in auto. At the same time, auto might make a better exposure if light is rapidly changing and you don't have time to meter precisely.

Also, with the auto option, you can do what I presume a lot of photographers do, which is to meter off of exactly what you want to, lock the exposure, and then recompose.

 

[menos]

Tim correct me, if I am wrong, but the Leica M does miss an exposure lock button. One would have to set the displayed shutter speed to "lock the exposure", which is slower to me, than shooting entirely manual.

I like, to shoot my FM3a in aperture priority, as it has an exposure lock directly under my right thumb. I am very happy with the lack of any automation with my M6.
I was surprised after my first rolls of not using the magical Nikon matrix meter of my D3 and metering more and more with eye measure, how well exposed the photographs are.

Until that point, I thought of the meter and auto exposure mode as something very scientific, better not to touch with bare hands. ;-)

 

[Tim Gray]

Yup, you are wrong The shutter has two stops before the release. The first activates the meter, the second locks the exposure, the third fires the shutter. You can also meter, lock the exposure, and then add 'compensation' by adjusting the shutter.

I know some users might complain that the shutter has too deep of a travel because of the extra stop, but I don't really find it any different than my M6. So, the M7 works very fast in auto, auto with exposure lock, or just like an M6 (or whatever) in full manual.

I usually shoot in manual with an incident meter. However, sometimes I leave the meter at home and shoot in manual with the internal meter. Only when lighting is really changing do I shoot in auto, and then, almost always by metering on an appropriate surface, then locking exposure, then recomposing. Only rarely do I use it in full auto mode - point and click.

 

[menos]

Darn Tim, you better kept that info as a secret. The M7 indeed looks more compelling now to me now.
I am already on the verse of looking for a second user body in black.
My chrome M6 is quite flashy, I am afraid. If the used M7 prices would be just a bit lower ;-)

 

[Tim Gray]

I love my M7. A better camera in all respects than my M6. Minus the price

 

[menos]

Are there any special things, going wrong with used M7 or MP?

How does the rangefinder compare between the M6 classic 0.72, MP and M7?
I use a 1.4 magnifier at all times with my M6.
The MP rangefinder is said to deal better than the M6 rangefinder.

I don't like the rangefinder white out in contrasty light and have patched out the light window, to improve the rangefinder contrast (all frame lines are still easy to see).

 

[Richard Wasserman]

My M6 finder used to flare at the worst possible times. I had it replaced with an MP finder and it is very much improved, it no longer goes white.

I don't like the rangefinder white out in contrasty light and have patched out the light window, to improve the rangefinder contrast (all frame lines are still easy to see).

 

[clayne]

No point in the M7 unless you want Av mode. Also no point to the M6-TTL unless you somehow want TTL metering for flash hookup. AFAIK that's all the TTL is for. M6 classic meter accomplishes the exact same goal when not using a flash (which 99% of Leica users never use anyways).

I personally use an M4 which doesn't have any of the above. I prefer it that way. No batteries and slightly smaller body.

 

[menos]

I stick to the internal meter, it doesn't force me, to carry another meter with me, when I might need it (I do at the moment, although getting slowly better in light guessing).

So apart from the different rangefinder, what is difference between the M6 and MP (cosmetical differences aside)?
What makes me buy a used MP at more than double the price than a second M6 classic?
The M6 TTL has nothing, I like, so I avoid them. I don't like the shutter speed dial direction, although, I could use the bigger diameter.

 

[Tim Gray]

Hmm, ok, here's a quick rundown of what I know. The M7 past serial number 2885xxx has the upgraded 'MP finder'. All M7's and M6's can be upgraded to the finder by sending it to Leica or DAG. They just install a new lens inside somehow that helps reduce patch whiteout. I think DAG charges about $150 for it, and it might be cheaper if you get a CLA at the same time. No idea how much it costs at Leica.

On to the differences between the M6 and MP, besides the finder. I think the finder window on the MP has anti-reflection coatings, which make ZERO difference. The MP has the old-style rewind crank and advance lever. A difference, but one that has little or no impact on use. The MP also has a brass top instead of zinc. And... that's it as far as I know. The MP is obviously newer, and probably not used much, which might be nice buying used. Oh, the MP won't have a red dot or the M6 logo on the front - it's a bit plainer, but again, not an issue. Lastly, you can get the MP in black paint which chips like crazy; the black M6 is black chrome I think.

I'm not sure on this, but the MP also probably has the 3 segment meter display compared to the M6's 2 segment (left and right arrow, and no dot in the middle).

According to many MP owners, the MP is somehow magical and the best built Leica ever made. When you look around at faults though, the MP seems to have it's fair share of problems, just like every other camera ever made, and maybe even more than other Leicas

 

[lns]

I dunno, I had an M6 and liked it, except for the viewfinder flare. But the MP really is magical. Sorry.

-Laura

p.s. - as Menos is in China, I think DAG is not an option.

 

[Tim Gray]

I dunno, I had an M6 and liked it, except for the viewfinder flare. But the MP really is magical. Sorry.

See what I mean?

 

[clayne]

See what I mean?

Yeah it's also BS most of the time too.

 

[menos]

Thanks for clearing that one up Tim (and Laura ;-) )

I'll might go with a good offer on a beat up newer M7 with improved finder or the much cheaper black chrome M6 classic beater + some electrical tape, to partly tape the light collection window for the bright lines as I did on my chrome body.

The MP is therefore not on my list anymore - sorry Laura ;-)
Magic has no valid 1000+ EUR price tag in my world, you can teach me otherwise though ?!

I have found quite a share of nice M6s without the zinc bubble issue. So the brass top plate is not a sales factor to me.