It really is a very good printer. I've had mine for a few years. Mine sometimes gets left to sit idle and I've had a few head clogs. A cleaning cycle takes care of them, but I now print a nozzle check before the first print of the day. Ink usage has been ok, but not great. It seems to use a little bit over time, so it costs you even if you aren't printing. The solution of course is to print frequently.
The factory profiles are very good, but I make my own with the ColorMunki. I'm not sure if they are more accurate or not. I print 95% of the time using the PhotoBlack ink. My preference in paper is for Canson Platine Fiber Rag or Epson Exhibition Fiber. The Canson is nicer, but I bought a large supply of the Epson at a good price. I proof on InkJet Art Luster paper. It's cheap and just as good as the Epson Luster.
My only issue with the printer is I wish it could handle roll paper. I find that from the D800E I would sometimes like to print full frame 16x24 prints. Those don't fit on the 17x22 paper very well

And cutting roll paper down has proven to not work well with the curl (head strikes the paper). Printing long panoramas would also be nice, but not easy without roll support.
I print a lot of black and white and am happy with the results with the factory inks. I've used the ABW, Quad Tone RIP, and just toning and printing as color. I've mostly settled on the toning and printing as color since it delivers good results and works well through Lightroom.