Epsilon shutter on Ensign Selfix 820

[millboyold]

Hello all, this is a plea for help, and an admission that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. I think what I need is an Epsilon shutter workshop manual that explains in detail how the shutter works as well as where everything goes. I’ll explain….

I recently purchased an Ensign Selfix 820 with the Ross lens and Epsilon shutter. As you might expect the epsilon shutter did not work, ….to be specific it would only cock intermittently. After cleaning the whole mechanism and bending the locking tab on the interlock plate all was well for about two days until the interlock tab sheared off completely. Undaunted I removed the interlock plate and soldered the tab back in place. The shutter now works fine at all speeds except that I cannot get the shutter to stay open the Bulb or T. I have taken the two arms that control T and B operations off and cleaned them, tried reversing the hair springs, adjusted the timing all to no avail.

My problem is I lack the wit to imagine how these arms should accomplish timed or bulb exposures and so cannot adjust them accordingly. Both B and T worked up until I removed the interlock plate but I am sure that was re installed correctly, has anyone experience of this, or a manual for an epsilon “0” shutter.

Thanks

Jim

PS below are pics of what I am calling the B and T arms both in and out of the shutter

 

[Dan Daniel]

Have you studied what the two tabs do when the top plate, the speed settings plate, is in place? (bad language on my part, you may call it the interlock plate?) I would install the plate and watch how they either get moved by the plate or held away, either when 'resting' or during exposure. B is most familiar to me- there will be a way for the lever to move further in or out when the shutter is set for B. Use a toothpick or such to hold the lever in or out, etc. and test for its effect.

Also check that the plate is sitting down enough and that the lever arms are at a level where the plate will affect the tabs. Sometimes the tabs get bent down when installing the plate and this isn't noticed.

If this doesn't get you anywhere, install the plate and send more photos. Plate at regular speed, at B and at T.

 

[millboyold]

Thanks for the speedy reply. Yes I have spent more time than I wanted to watching how the gear ring controlled the placement lugs (points 1) on the end of the B and T . I have used this to replicate their positions without the gear ring ........to allow a view of what was going on. I have also tried it with the gear ring in place. The position of the retardation controll cam also affects B and T operation.
I have observed that: Levers A and B are controlled by the firing trigger at points 2, .They are also positioned by how points 1 engage the gear ring (via slot c).

Points 3 on both levers, (have you lost the will to live yet?), should make contact with the cocking as it arm as it releases to stop the shutter closing when B or T has been selected.
Unfortunately in my shutter the act of pressing the shutter release holds point 3 on arm A outside the arc of cocking arm as it closes. Point 3 on arm B will stop the shutter closing, but is unaffected by a second pressing of the firing trigger and therefore the shutter remains open.
In my set up there is just not enough time for me to let go of the trigger allowing the hairsprings to push point 3 on arm A into the path of the shutter release mechanism.
I can only conclude the either I have got hold of the wrong end of the stick, or that the some part of the retardation system is supposed to be employed, and it is not, and I have a problem elswhere in the shutter.
Gibberish I know. I enclose a pic to define my terms

 

[Dan Daniel]

Well, without seeing the plate and how the tabs interact, this is hard.

Maybe there is a pin underneath these parts that is on the wrong side of the levers. Or a spring is reversed. Or the tab on the main cocking arm is not moving into the right place.

Well, sounds like you are exploring well. Maybe something is upside down. All in all, these kinds of parts have clues on wear surfaces, grooves for spring ends, on and on, that can often 'tell' you where they need to be. And of course there are things downstream of these two levers that could be off.

 

[millboyold]

Hello here are pics showing how the gear ring and arms A and B relate to each other at a normal speed, "T" and "b" respectively. I hope thats what you wanted to see.
In none of these was the shutter cocked.
Thanks
Jim

 

[millboyold]

Sorry we must have been typing at the same time. I should give up really, I'm only perservering because I was so proud of my soldering. Will do some mixing and matching and report back if I have any joy. Thanks for your help
Jim

 

[Dan Daniel]

About all I can say is when cocked, do the two tabs, B and T, move in and ride on the inner edge of the speed plate? If not, flip the springs?

Also, you can fire the shutter using the cable release inner trip lever. This might show you some things about the pins and such and if the levers are on the wrong side of an arm.

 

[millboyold]

yes I did try the cable release and made sure the arm cams rode on the inside of the groove. I think In bending the arms to change the timing I have unsettled their relative lengths and lost track of their proper positions, as I said at the start a little knowledge and too much confidence!

 

[millboyold]

Success. It was just trial and error bending arms till they were in the correct starting position.Thanks for listening,
Jim

 

[Dan Daniel]

Nice.

Now of course you have to actually USE B and T settings. Hope you like night shots or high number neutral density filters.