I checked and it only vignettes in the corners slightly. Not ideal though. Also, you're bringing down the enlarger very much for that format, which doesn't make burning and dodging any easier.
I would try again to get the helicoid in there and below I describe what I would do. But first you must clean the screw threads of the receptical and the helicoid. And you must grease it.
[snip]
- Make yourself a nice tea, sit on a chair in front of this kind enlarger, lower the enlarger to the right height so you can put your elbows on the baseboard and carefully try to make the two threads catch.
Sorry, I don't have this enlarger, so I could be way off base, but have you tried or is it possible that the helicoid screws in from the top/reverse side?
I have some Durst tubes for reductions etc. and if my memory serves me correctly, things screw in from the top end that attaches to the enlarger.
It may sound counter intuitive, but if you think about it, you wouldn't want to have the whole helicoid mechanism to fallout, lens and all, because of being unscrewed too far. So it's a sort of safety, prevention mechanism.
Again, I apologise if my suggestion is nonsense but my experience is that the designers and engineers knew how to build things in their day.
This, on ebay, might help you...
This is the type of thing a file is best at. If you can find a thread repair file of the correct pitch that is best, otherwise a triangular file will do. I have used a triangular file many times to clean up threads, enough so that I recently bought a dedicated set of thread repair files to make it easier and fasterYou can take an ice pick, or a sturdy, sharp knife and straighten those threads enough to get a lens on, I had to do that sort of thing in the field or in a shop many times when there was no alternative. It just takes a little patience and something to hold things steady.
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