Yes. Add equal parts of cyan, yellow and magenta to form a neutral density filter.
The problem that the OP, henpe, has asked us about is short exposure at f8/11 so what is wrong is the short exposure at these apertures.
He hasn't exactly said which of the two he uses(f8 or f11) and he mentions a few seconds rather than an actual number but let's say his few seconds is 3 and his min aperture he currently uses is f11 then f22 is only 12 secs. Still quite short for any dodging and burning. On that basis f32 is really the first f stop that is comfortable for relaxed dodging and burning. Unfortunately even f22 gives concerns over diffusion and presumably f32 is well over the last safe aperture to avoid diffusion so as a solution is dismissed.
So sticking to the problem mentioned in henpe's post it looks like he needs to stop at f16 and use "work-arounds" such as extra neutral colour filtration or add ND into the filter drawer, doesn't he?
pentaxuser
Laclan, can I ask what your exposures are with 600W and f11 and what you use to lengthen the exposure to the kind of range that henpe's needs, namely about, say, 15-20 secs.I do those sort of enlargements on a routine basis without trouble using an Ilford MG500 head (2x300w) - it should be easier for you with over a stop less power! Remember that a 3x enlargement allowing for 8lp/mm on paper only needs 24lp/mm on the film (in a lossless system, but the losses are not too drastic, especially not in a relatively small enlargement - and stopping to f16 or even 22 should be fine).
Good luck
Laclan, can I ask what your exposures are with 600W and f11 and what you use to lengthen the exposure to the kind of range that henpe's needs, namely about, say, 15-20 secs.
If you achieve what henpe's needs to achieve but using double the power then I remain puzzled at why his system cannot achieve 15-20 secs exposures
I am simply trying to get the the bottom of what is going wrong in henpe's set-up from an investigative point of view.
Before the thread takes off into another round of repeat of solutions involving "work-arounds" I appreciate that sticking to f11 to avoid diffusion and at the same time, achieving longer exposures may be solved from a practical aspect with neutral density and working with the controls already built-in with the enlarger extra Y,M and C may provide this most easily.
pentaxuser
The standard bulb for the Durst M600 is 75watts not 150watts.Is there a bulb smaller than 200w? I figure you need to drop the wattage significantly to make a decent difference in light output.
I had the same problem with my M600. The stock 150w bulb gave me exposure times too short to dodge/burn, less than 5 sec. I went to a 75w PH-211, which was better. I would have preferred to go down even further, but they don't make a photo bulb lower than 75w, that I could find at the time.
Another option, if you can't find a smaller bulb, is a glass screw on the lens ND filter.
The glass ND filter should be a decent enough optical quality that it won't affect the image. IOW, not the $5 junk box filters.
Have the same problem with the school enlargers and bought some Rosco ND theatrical gel.I've got a similar problem myself. A Beseler 23c, Ilford MG IV Fiber based paper, Ilford MG filters, and with either a 50mm or 105mm lens, I'm getting exposure times around 4 seconds at f/11 with a standard density negative. I bought my enlarger used, and only have the one bulb for it. It's unmarked, but it looks like a PH140 75w bulb, if I were to guess. I've long suspected it maybe wasn't what it was labeled. Either that or my filters are old or there's something wrong with my paper.
In any case, I took a piece of translucent white plastic and cut it to size and placed it in the filter carrier above the condenser head. It cuts down the light enough to make times manageable.
Yeah, I have tried a similar approach and installed a cheap acrylic ND-filter, but above the mixing chamber, it melted....In any case, I took a piece of translucent white plastic and cut it to size and placed it in the filter carrier above the condenser head. It cuts down the light enough to make times manageable.
The standard bulb for the Durst M600 is 75watts not 150watts.
Please check your FEMOBOX and see which one is fitted
Johnkpap
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