Enlarger Timer

[RalphLambrecht]

Can someone recommend an enlarger timer to use with my Leitz Valoy II enlarger. I live in the UK so any models that are available in the UK. Also what should I look out for in a timer, are some features more desirable than others?

Kind regards
M

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4

contact ?Richard at RHDesignsand let him give you a suggestion.he makes the best enlarger timers in the UK.Youll find him through Google

 

[MattKing]

Even if you want more than a metronome, having a metronome function is handy.

If you wanted something new, this looks functional: http://www.secondhanddarkroom.co.uk/product.php/paterson_2000d_enlarger_timer/?k=:::873886

 

[piu58]

I only use a metronome since 40 years.

 

[Tom1956]

If you use a Gralab clockface timer, you will be very sorry, and never know why. Do not hook your enlarger up to one. Hint: The enlarger bulb flickers in brightness the whole time. You'll NEVER hit on a consistent repeatable procedure.

 

[pdeeh]

yes, that's true. After all, it's clear that nobody has ever been able to print consistently with those immensely popular and still-manufactured devices, and every example ever made or to be made was and will be the same as your example. And you have the unassailable evidence of a statistical sample of 1 to back your statement up ...

 

[Newt_on_Swings]

I only use my gralab 300 on my older 4x5 durst as exposures are long enough not to worry about variation of second timing. The gralab is not very accurate when setting exposures that are short. Same with time-o-lites, not very accurate. They are popular because they are simple and affordable but not the best choice if you have a little bit of a budget to spend. On my main lpl 670 i use a gralab 450 with footswitch. Very slim machine i have wall mounted behind the enlarger. Dials as i dont like the button time setting design versions of the more advanced gralabs. Dial setting is also very fast. Metronome when counting down, great for dodge & burning and 0.1 second timing, which is really needed for small prints with the head low.

I never connect the timers to a safelight as i use a thomas duplex, i just dim the vanes if i know im going to be working for a bit of time with lots of paper out, such as cutting from long rolls. If it turns off it needs to warm up again before its safe to use.

 

[L Gebhardt]

You really want an f/stop timer if at all possible. There are several to choose from including free (if you can solder) - see my signature.

Failing that, an electronic timer, not an inconsistent mechanical knob.

Failing that, a loudly ticking clock. I printed for my first year with a loud clock and a table on the wall listing 1/4 stop timing increments. I would take the ticking clock over a gralab any day.

I've used RH Designs timers and they are great. I've also built my own using Polyglot's instructions. I do not want to go back to a plain timer. If I had to I would get a digital that I could use with a table of fstop times. Having the ability to program steps in is also very nice for complicated prints.

 

[pstake]

On my main lpl 670 i use a gralab 450 with footswitch. Very slim machine i have wall mounted behind the enlarger. Dials as i dont like the button time setting design versions of the more advanced gralabs. Dial setting is also very fast. Metronome when counting down, great for dodge & burning and 0.1 second timing, which is really needed for small prints with the head low.

This is my favorite timer, ever. I hope this thread doesn't drive the prices up!

 

[RalphLambrecht]

footswitches never worked for me.either I couldn't find them in the dark or Istepped on them accidently

 

[Newt_on_Swings]

The gralab foot switches are not that common and dont pop up much. You can get a brand new foot pedal online or a music store that has a 1/4 inch output, a mono 1/4inch to 3.5mm plug adapter and you have a fully functional foot switch that can do start stop on press or double press to use on your machine. Get whatever size or color you want costs under $15. Much easier than looking for a used switch online.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I think the RH designs timers will be out of my budget.

then try this

 

[RalphLambrecht]

but worth it,as you'll find out if you try to find a used unit.darkrooms are sold ,but these timers are hung on to.

 

[pdeeh]

then try this

is there a link or a picture missing from that post? or am i being dim?

 

[RalphLambrecht]

there is a file missing;an analog clock face,turning a gralab 300 into an f/stop timer on the cheapbut i 'm the dim one,having the hardest time uploading files to APUGmessages.

 

[jaydebruyne]

If you can wait until the weekend, send me a PM - I've got a couple of basic timers going spare.

Do you still have any timers left? I'm interested in buying one (digital preferably).

Cheers

 

[paul_c5x4]

Do you still have any timers left? I'm interested in buying one (digital preferably).

Just am RH Designs analyser/timer - But you'd have to pry it out of my cold, dead hands first

 

[jaydebruyne]

Just am RH Designs analyser/timer - But you'd have to pry it out of my cold, dead hands first

Haha fair enough cheers Paul.

 

[mr rusty]

Just am RH Designs analyser/timer - But you'd have to pry it out of my cold, dead hands first

Same here!

You are possibly wondering why?! It is true there is no substitute for test strips, but test strips take time to make and process, and for me anyway, time is a fairly precious resource. The analyser/timer from RHD (now sold through SDS) allows you to take readings from the projected image on the baseboard of highlight, shadow and anything in between, and it calculates and displays both the required exposure and contrast. You can adjust both to put particular parts of a negative on a particular shade of grey(zone). The analyser can be programmed and calibrated for up to 8 different paper types. so when you switch from e.g. multigrade IV to a fast paper like Kentmere everything is worked out. Calibration for each paper takes a little time, but you only do it once. These beasties are now £340 new. I would buy another tomorrow if mine failed. It gives me the ability to have a quick session in the darkroom because I can get very close first time with no test strips. Don't think, however, that they are a totally automated solution. My experience is that you still have to learn how to "use the machine", which takes a little time and practice. If you want to know more, read up on RHD website.

There IS no substitute for test strips for the ultimate fine-tuning, but an RHD analyser comes pretty close, if your pockets are deep enough.

 

[nworth]

I like the Besseler because it beeps every second during the exposure. That is a big, big advantage during printing while you are dodging or burning in. There are a few other timers that do the same thing and can probably be considered equivalent.

 

[poppers]

Thanks for the advice, Now sorted with a simple electronic timer thanks to this forum. So my enlarger Leitz Valloy II is is wired to a UK 3pin plug but no earth wire, I have a Kettle style three pin plug for the enlarger timer to connect to the enlarger. Th instructions for the timer show the enlarger being earthed into the plug that connects to the timer. There is no earth wire so do i need to earth another way or is it ok without?

 

[paul_c5x4]

The instructions for the timer show the enlarger being earthed into the plug that connects to the timer. There is no earth wire so do i need to earth another way or is it ok without?

Most domestic table lamps do not have an earth wire, and for the most part, an enlarger is no different. Indeed, my Durst L1200 (B&W condenser head) does not have an earth, and I've never worried about it.

If you have any concerns, use an RCD breaker between the wall socket and the timer.

 

[poppers]

Thanks. I thought I'd be ok as essentially it's just like a table lamp but the breaker is a good precaution.

Thanks again.
M

 

[MartinP]

For the earth-current breaker to work when there is a fault on the enlarger, you will need to have an earth on the metal chassis of the enlarger (assuming that the lamp-socket is in a metal head, which it is in the Valoy I think). If the earth wire only starts in the timer, then a short inside there could pop the switch, but the device doesn't give protection automagically with just a two-core cable to the enlarger. And you do have the correct size fuse in the plug of course, not 13A?

[Bearing in mind that I'm not a professional electrical engineer, your safety is your responsibility etc. etc.]

EDIT: Maybe I misunderstood about the timer - if there is no earth wire out of the timer then how can one expect to trip the earth-current breaker at all???

 

[paul_c5x4]

if there is no earth wire out of the timer then how can one expect to trip the earth-current breaker at all???

Residual Current Circuit Breakers (or RCD) monitor the current going out on the live wire and coming back on the neutral wire - If there is a difference between the two, the breaker trips. An earth connection is not required for the device to operate.

 

[MartinP]

Aha, that explains it. I am getting the name mixed up with the earth-trip things. Thanks.