Enlarger - first thoughts

[Uhner]

So it seems that for my needs the VC head that produces diffused light and does not need any changes (well, apart from lens) when I change from 4x5 to 6x6 would be optimal.

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Are there any other "reasonable" 4x5 enlargers in 4x5 apart from DeVere 504, Durst 1200 and LPL. Actually - which LPL ? They are quite plenty ... I know about LPL 7452, 7451

Hi Matus

If you decide to buy a LPL 74xx series with a VC module – you will still need different mixing boxes for different formats.

LPL 7452 has an improved cooling system, higher column, larger baseboard, larger distance between the column and the lens and a more powerful 250W lamp than the 7451 and 7450 models. It is capable of projecting 50x60 cm copies on the baseboard (if its fitted with the right optics), compared to 40x50 for the other models.

Well, like I said earlier on this thread, the VC module for these enlargers (that is the VCCE module) is a good piece of equipment. Same can be said regarding the negative holders and the focusing system. BUT, aligning the enlarger can be tricky (I have used thin sheets of metal where the column meets the baseboard).

 

[haris]

Thank you.

So it seems that for my needs the VC head that produces diffused light and does not need any changes (well, apart from lens) when I change from 4x5 to 6x6 would be optimal.
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Off-enalrger topic - what about the fiber print dryers. I am planning to get some heated press - (at least for the smaller sizes) - what is your experience ?

NO! Fact that VC head have diffused light DOES NOT means you don't need changing of mixing chambers and you only change lens. Mixing chamber have function to give enough uniformly spreaded light over whole area which lens can cover (negative size you use). So changing of lens/negative size require changing of mixing chamber. Saying that, my Opemus 5 works with 35mm and 6x6 negatives (50mm and 80mm) lenses and it not need changing condensors on b/w head or mixing chamber on colour head, only lenses. But, it doesnt means other enlargers works the same, my Magnifax 4 from same manufacturer as Opemus 5 require changing of condensors/mixing chambers when changing lenses...
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I have FB dryer, but I don't use it. I dry FB prints just by hanging them and they need some flatening after drying, but not much. If you have money to buy FB paper dyer, your work would be with more comfort , but if you don't buy it, you still can work without real problems. Atleast that is my experience.

 

[Chuck_P]

I have read of people moving their enlarger on a wheeled trolley, but I do not know if any were 4x5 enlargers. I imagine it would need to be a very strong trolley for that.

I just finished making a cart for my LPL4550. I used 3/4" oak veneer plywood for the top and bottom and four 2" diameter dowels for the legs. Its sanded and ready for staining and clearcoating tonight. Its very sturdy and holds the beast very nicely.

If he shoots 4x5, which I think he's stated, he's going to need a 4x5 enalrger.

 

[Jeffrey A. Steinberg]

Personally, I love my LPL/Suanders 4550XLG. The biggest you can get is 4x5 but I max out at 6x7.

--Jeffrey

 

[Mick Fagan]

With a diffused head enlarger, technically, you should change the light mixing box for the different formats, practically, people don't.

With my various enlargers I have used, with all of the diffused head types I have always left the larger mixing box in the head for all formats.

When I had my LPL 7450/1 enlarger, I always left the 4x5 mixing box in the head. The same goes for my DeVere 504 today.

There is a difference and it is measurable, usually it is in the order of about 1/4 to 3/8 or slightly higher, of a stop, which is unimportant, for all intents and purposes.

There is at least one exception to this rule. If you are going to push the format to an extreme, say maximum enlargement of a 35mm neg, then any help in illumination when the enlarger is at it highest, may be better for your eyesight, when deciding grain and/or sharpness parameters.

Mick.

 

[Mick Fagan]

Just thought of something else, paper.

I would suggest that you use RC paper at the start, one it's cheaper, two it's far, far faster and user friendly.

I myself use Ilford Multigrade IV with the Pearl finish. This paper is excellent, reasonably cheap and can be dried with a hair dryer in a matter of 2 or 3 minutes, this will allow you to know really quickly how much darker the prints go when they dry.

I would also suggest, especially as you are in Germany, thinking about purchasing a Jobo Vario Format easel, they are excellent and allow you to quickly and easily do multiple prints on single sheets of paper.

The Varioformat easel also has click in corner pieces which allow the usage of more common German sized paper perfectly, something not normally around in the photographic world at large.

Mick.