Enlarger alignment-Best unit?

[Arvee]

It has been my observation after owning several MF enlargers (2-Bes. 23CII, Bes. 67S2, Saunders 6700, B22XL,) that I found the 23C's to be the simplest to align and the unit most likely to stay that way.

Being nitpicky about alignment (ret. engineer) I would be interested in other observations and comments about brands/models of MF enlargers and alignment issues. LF guys, if you have suggestions, log in!

How are the Meopta unit as far as alignment goes?

Thanks!

Fred

 

[Bob Carnie]

Hi Fred
I use the Laser Align 11 , made by Focal Point Ind. Inc. Sanford . Fl. 407-322-2123.
We use deveere and Omega/Cromegas heads on the chassis and this tool is very easy to use and accurate..
Bit pricey but well worth the money.

I has been my observation after owning several MF enlargers (2-Bes. 23CII, Bes. 67S2, Saunders 6700, B22XL,) that I found the 23C's to be the simplest to align and the unit most likely to stay that way.

Being nitpicky about alignment (ret. engineer) I would be interested in other observations and comments about brands/models of MF enlargers and alignment issues. LF guys, if you have suggestions, log in!

How are the Meopta unit as far as alignment goes?

Thanks!

Fred

 

[Early Riser]

I use the versa lab laser alignment tool which I think is about $60 cheaper and works in exactly the same way as the Laser align II.

http://www.versalab.com/server/photo/products/parallel.htm

 

[Jim Jones]

If the object of enlarger alignment is to make the image sharp from corner to corner, the only tools required are a negative with one surface sanded lightly with both medium and fine sandpaper, and for us old people, a suitable magnifier. When the enlarger is adjusted so all four corners of the image are sharp, the center should be. If it isn't, the problem isn't alignment, but negative pop or curvature of field in the lens. Lines scribed on the negative at precise distances can provide a check for distortion.

 

[Arvee]

Guys, I see I wasn't very clear about what I was looking for in my posting. Moreover, I was looking for which MF enlargers are easier to align and which ones will stay that way.

Some enlargers have pretty crude adjustments and some simply didn't have provisions for adjustments in some axes but did in others.

Looking to buy a last enlarger and wondered if I had already covered all the bases with the units that have passed through my darkroom.

Thanks!

Fred

 

[Jon Shiu]

Hi, I don't know the answer, but found the 23C somewhat difficult to adjust. Aligning the neg stage is hard, side to side, and partly depends on plastic gears which may have some play in them. Not sure how the lens stage is adjusted for the fore/aft axis tilt. Have heard Durst is the best, but have never seen one.

Jon

 

[Peter De Smidt]

I have and recommend De Vere. The negative and lens states are adjustable with set screws. Not only is it easy to align a De Vere, especially with the Versalab Parallel mentioned earlier, but they stay aligned very well. If I bump mine (a 504 floor stander and an 810H horizontal 8x10 enlarger), I'm the one that goes out of alignment.

 

[Arvee]

Thanks, Jon, kind of info I was hoping to get.


Fred

 

[Sean]

I had an lpl MF enlarger that had to be aligned sometimes mid session, very frustrating. I now have a durst 4x5 that I aligned about a year ago and it's still spot on..

 

[craigclu]

I use a Versalab and can say that a 23C series is not the best set-up for ease of aligning. They do stay in alignment very well once you've dialed them in, though. I spent most of a Saturday afternoon getting one perfect. Many shims and much head scratching ensued as I worked around various design deficiencies. The fore/aft lens stage requires shimming to bring it in with the rest of the rig. It doesn't seem that it would have been that difficult to design adjustment into the unit in the first place but perhaps cost constraints dictated the final design?

 

[radiantdarkroom]

After using many different brands I found Durst and De Vere to have the best consistent alignment in MF. The best for printing almost exactly in the same area between different negatives.

 

[Arvee]

Thanks, everyone, for the valuable input.

The 23CII I have at the moment also required some fiddling to get the fore/aft lens stage in tune. It has been stable for a while but I think it's time to invest in the Versalab. Much easier and faster to check alignment prior to a session.

My other machine is a Beseler 67S2 with colorhead that I use for 6x7 negs. It isn't all that stable near the top for 35 stuff. I think it will be soon retired and I will start looking at the recommendations that have been offered in this thread.

Thanks again!

Fred

 

[dancqu]

If the object of enlarger alignment is to make
the image sharp from corner to corner, ...

And the rest of Jim's post worth a read. I certainly agree in
principle; at least implied. The PROOf of an exact alignment
is on the baseboard or easel. Needless to say, in the end
that is where the proof WILL come. So I'm with Jim.

I've only aligned my Omega B8 once and that was years ago.
Another is soon due. Two conditions must be meet for exact
alignment; the planes of the negative stage and the easel
or baseboard must be parallel AND the optical axis of the
lens perpendicular to both. With those conditions meet
the projected image of a rectangle will be square all
round. That's it. Of course in checking for square
a well focused image helps.

Now I'm not knocking the various tools used to assist
in the tedious alignment task. Those who are curious and
have to spare, those with a real need for speed which may
be satisfied, shop around. For myself a square will provide
the final proof. Dan

 

[craigclu]

Now I'm not knocking the various tools used to assist
in the tedious alignment task. Those who are curious and
have to spare, those with a real need for speed which may
be satisfied, shop around. For myself a square will provide
the final proof. Dan

I got along fine for years with bubble levels, measuring and general tests with test negatives. After getting the VersaLab rig, my equipment showed that it was generally pretty well-aligned. Getting it perfect was a big challenge and the tool really helped in that regard. My reason for getting more precise was that I had invested in a Rodagon APO 50 and a Schneider APO 90.... both of which performed best at 1 stop down and left no room for depth of field forgiveness like my other lenses did at 8 or 11. I honestly can't see any great sharpness advantage on these 2 optics until I get to rather large print sizes but they both have a look that I like with my materials so I feel that I need to have my gear tuned correctly to properly use them.