Emaks Paper

[timtheskeetshooter]

Hello everyone,

So I'm printing away again for the first time in almost 15 years and made a purchase of some papers I have never used before. (I'm an old Kodak guy ) One of witch is Fotokemika EMAKS FB in grades 2 and a 3 (the topic). I also purchased some Slavich FB, Foma FB, and some old stock Kentmere RC for making contact sheets.

The Foma and the Slavich print awesome. But the EMAKS seem to be... screwed up! :confused: The EMKAS turns a yellow orange with dark blotches and flame like effects here and there.

Kinda neat if I was playing in the dark room. For grins a toned one of the strange prints in selenium. It seams to almost totally remove the yellow orange color.

I though it might have been the safe lights. So I tried OC, Red 1, and Red 1a filters by Kodak. Same problems, the grade 3 EMAKS seemed a little better but as much.


Anyone run across this before with this paper?

I purchased the paper from FreeStyle, I may call them for a return/refund.



Cheers! [_]?

Tim

 

[Andrew T]

I was using some grade 2 Emaks for lith printing for a recent project. The conditions in my school darkroom are not ideal, OC safelights instead of red. The manufacturer says not to use anything but a red safelight but I thankfully didn't have any problems with the OC lights. Basically, I'm not sure if what you're having is a safelight issue. I never had any of the problems you described, I suppose its possible you got a bad batch of paper?

 

[dancqu]

Ditto Slavich

The manufacturer says not to use anything but a red safelight
but I thankfully didn't have any problems with the OC lights.

And likely you'd have no problem using standard Graded
paper safelights. That's what I use; the orange-ish yellow
safelights. And I'm not the only who does. Others have
posted the same.

That red only directions have persisted for years,
Slavich Graded included. Don't short your self
unnecessarily of darkroom lighting. Dan

 

[timtheskeetshooter]

I tired again, this time I covered the safe lights with some copy paper thus reducing the intensity. Same results.

I wonder if it is just a bad batch or something happened during shipping. Temp / radiation or something...

The Slavich and Foma printed just fine.

 

[Mark Fisher]

Sounds like bad paper to me. I've used Emaks for lith and a few times for standard BW. I'm not a big fan of it, but it never did that! I'd return it.

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

I've used Emaks under various labels for years and have never had it turn funny colors. What developer, stop, and fix are you using, and when does it seem to turn color?

I've developed it in a few developers, usually Ansco 130 or Michael Smith's amidol formula for enlarging papers, followed by a water rinse, and TF-4.

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

Also, how are you agitating the paper? One cause of dichroic fog, which sounds like what you may have, is aerial oxidation, so if you agitate by flipping the prints in the tray, or if you're processing in a rotary tube, that would explain it. Older style papers are more prone to this than modern papers.

 

[timtheskeetshooter]

Hi David- I use the same process as you do.. i.e. A130 > Water > TF-4 . I have Amidol from PF, but have not brewed it up yet.

The fix is fresh and the A130 is about a week old. All my chemistry holds at room temp, approximate 20C +/- 1F.

 

[timtheskeetshooter]

Also, how are you agitating the paper? One cause of dichroic fog, which sounds like what you may have, is aerial oxidation, so if you agitate by flipping the prints in the tray, or if you're processing in a rotary tube, that would explain it. Older style papers are more prone to this than modern papers.

I place the paper in the tray and I will gently tip the tray about two times to ensure coverage and let the paper sit until the targeted time has elapsed.

I let it drip for a few seconds and place it in the water bath with the same coverage method mentioned above.

Then to the fix, repeated coverage process.


Hope this helps.

-Tim

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

That's strange. It's possible you got a bad batch. I usually agitate gently for the whole development time by a combination of rocking the tray and rotating the print. I start the print face down and flip it once after about a minute, and usually process 3 min in amidol or 2-3 min in 130, 1 min. rinse, then 1 min. TF-4.

 

[timtheskeetshooter]

That's strange. It's possible you got a bad batch. I usually agitate gently for the whole development time by a combination of rocking the tray and rotating the print. I start the print face down and flip it once after about a minute, and usually process 3 min in amidol or 2-3 min in 130, 1 min. rinse, then 1 min. TF-4.

I have also done what you have described above, looks like we have the same methods. I'm thinking it is a bad batch of paper. I don't think EMAKS stamps a lot number on there paper packs do they?

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

I have also done what you have described above, looks like we have the same methods. I'm thinking it is a bad batch of paper. I don't think EMAKS stamps a lot number on there paper packs do they?

I haven't noticed if they stamp a lot number on the box, and I usually transfer my paper to a paper safe, so I don't have an Emaks branded box on hand at the moment to tell you what mine looks like.

One last possibility could be a water issue. Do you have a water softener or otherwise unusual water?

 

[timtheskeetshooter]

No water softener and the water source is the same that I used years ago i.e. lab is in the same place.

 

[Andrew T]

I think they do put a batch number on there. On the tag right next to the UPC. It's there on my boxes at least...

 

[naugastyle]

I'll chime in with "bad batch." I have loved Emaks so far. I've used Grade 3, which is a bit high for most of the negs I've tried to print (need to buy some Grade 2), so I've developed in Selectol-soft and occasionally needed a pre-flash as well. My safelights are OC and yellow. Toned in selenium, brown toner, and both. No splotchiness.

 

[fschifano]

It's the fact that you don't use an acid stop bath that raises a question with me. A water stop is fine if you can use a lot of water. If you're just re-using water in a tray, before long that water stop tray becomes a tray of very dilute developer. You might be carrying enough active developer over into the fix to cause just this sort of problem. I'm not familiar with Emaks paper. Maybe this problem started after you'd run more than a few prints through the water stop tray without having changed out the water?

 

[darkosaric]

I am using emaks paper for last 4 years heavily (my number one paper - I am from Croatia originally ) - with ilford multigrade developer, developer FR16 from fotokemika and moersch lith. Never had any problems. I am using red safety light and acid bath stop.

 

[timtheskeetshooter]

It's the fact that you don't use an acid stop bath that raises a question with me. A water stop is fine if you can use a lot of water. If you're just re-using water in a tray, before long that water stop tray becomes a tray of very dilute developer. You might be carrying enough active developer over into the fix to cause just this sort of problem. I'm not familiar with Emaks paper. Maybe this problem started after you'd run more than a few prints through the water stop tray without having changed out the water?

I would have also suspected the same thing. However, i had the same results with fresh water and acid stop. The above mentioned problem is pretty clear in the developer.

-Tim

-please forgive typo's I am replying on my iPhone-

 

[Donmck]

I got a new batch from Freestyle a week ago---em910880

works as normal----water stop no problem.I'm using A130 and 55-D.

-Don

 

[timtheskeetshooter]

Well it looks like the case is closed.

Further testing proved that it was my safe light(s). The paper fogged on all three types (Kodak OC, No.1, and No.1a)

I ran the paper through the chemestry in complete darkness. After fixing.... snow white paper.

Well it is off to the aquarium story to see if a I can find bulbs lower than 15 watts to experiment with.


Thanks for all the input!


Cheers!

Tim

 

[C A Sugg]

I've been using Delta 1 Bright Lab Jr. red safe lights. Are these red and dim enough?

 

[mikebarger]

Have you tested them? No one can really say what works in your darkroom. Old, new, faded, reflections, who knows?

Test them, then you'll know. Read Fred Picker's little book, it will help.

Mike

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

I've been using Delta 1 Bright Lab Jr. red safe lights. Are these red and dim enough?

I used to have one, and it was usually OK with graded papers, but you've got to test it for yourself in your darkroom. These days I use a combination of LED safelights and a Thomas Duplex and a lot depends on things like safelight distance, ceiling height, and such, so you need to run some tests.

 

[C A Sugg]

I used to have one, and it was usually OK with graded papers, but you've got to test it for yourself in your darkroom. These days I use a combination of LED safelights and a Thomas Duplex and a lot depends on things like safelight distance, ceiling height, and such, so you need to run some tests.

It's on the wall, near the ceiling, about 4 feet from the developing tray. And it's about 7 feet from the enlarger. The ceiling is rather low; I can change the light bulb without a boost, and both it and the walls are painted a dark blue/grey.
So far I haven't noticed any fogging, including Slavich. But soon I am planning to try Emaks and Varycon.

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

At four feet with darkish walls you're probably okay.