Eliminating Black Border

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Mike A

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I wish to eliminate the black border on my prints using a mask and was wondering what everyone uses? I have been using black electrical tape directly on the glass butt I don't find this a very versatile method. I'm using a vacuum frame so the material must be thin, is Rubylith the correct stuff to use? I've also read that an exposed and developed piece of film will work as well.
Thanks,
Mike A
 
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Mike A

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colrehogan said:
Rubylith will work fine.
Thank you and yes it does.
Mike A
 

Allen Friday

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Baseline masking sheets

I attended a workshop last fall with Kim Weston and Ryuijie. They use Baseline Masking sheets to eliminate the black boarder from around their contact prints. The sheets are a little thinner than rubylith, but they work fine, at least for platinum prints. I used then on a few sheets and when I run out of rubylith I will probably order the Baseline sheets instead. One nice thing about them is that they are ruled--they have a grid on them--which makes for easier cutting.

To cut, tape the neg to the the film at the top. Slide an old piece of film between the neg and the mask. Flip the whole thing over on the light box and trim away the mask using an exacto knife and straight edge. If you over cut, angle a piece of opaque tape at a 45 degree angle at the corner on the mask. Take out the old piece of film and tape the neg at the bottom to the mask. You are ready to print.
 

Dan Williams

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Basline is news to me and I am going to look into it but for Rubylith try MisterArt http://www.misterart.com Search for Rubylith.

I don't normally cut a mask when I use it. I cut four strips with a straght edge and razor knife and tape them to my neg. I can use the same strips for various size negs rather than cutting a new mask.
 

papisa

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Greetings Mike, do you no if Base-Line Masking Sheets or Rubylith can be used on Original Glass Plate Negatives, it sure is a drag after you scan them in and then have to go and get ride of the black border because all of them on the original glass are not the same dia. around the edge of the plates.

Thanks, Mike, i also live in Chicago.
 

Charles Webb

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I have used both Amberlith and Rubylith for masking glass negatives, either one works fine, as do the ruled masking sheets.

Charlie.....................
 

sanking

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One thing you should strongly consider, especially with alternative processes, is the use of a thin layer of polyester plastic, say a sheet of mylar of about 2-4 mil thickness, to separate the emulsion of the negative from the surface of the sensitized material. There are several advatages.

1. The plastic barrier protects the negative from contamination from chemicals in the sensitized paper that might reduce its archival properties.

2. There is less chance of ruining the negative by use of paper which is locally moist or damp and will stick to the emulsin of the negative. Most alternative printers have ruined more than one good negative by printing before the paper was completely dry.

3. Masking with lith tape is very easy. Say, for example, you contact print a 5X7 negative. Just place it emulsuion side down on a sheet of 8X10 mylar and carefully tape the edges of the negative to the plastic with thin lith tape. You can then easily expand the area that needs to be masked with wider lith tape.

I use these procedure for all of my printing with carbon, kallitype and Pt./Pd. and have never lost a negative using this technique.

Disadvantages. None if you are printing with a vacuum frame, and probably with a contact printing frame with a point source light. The use of a diffuse light source with a contact printing frame that does not provide very good contact at all points may result in some loss of sharpness.

Sandy
 
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papisa

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Thank You Charles, will try it this weekend if i can find the tape in and around the Chicago, will look in the yelleow pages, have a good day.

Mike.
 
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