Electronic Flash

[Mamulcahy]

I’m searching for an on camera flash for my older film cameras. I have a Nikon FE, Nikomat FT2, Yashica124G and Fuji GW690. Only the FE has an in finder ready light, the rest are hot shoe or require a sync cord. I used to have a Vivitar 283, but it didn’t work the last time I tried it. I assume the caps went bad. I’d like to pickup something with a thyristor type circuit that cuts off the flash at proper exposure. I’m a little gun shy on older flashes in the event they too have dead caps. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks I’m advance!

 

[AgX]

All autoexposure flashes cut off the tuben at right exposure. But the thyristor technology keeps the unused energy in the capacitor. This means that it can be used for another flash exposure. But only if it takes place in short time.

 

[AgX]

In case you want the flash ready display in the finder, you either need a Nikon-dedicated flash, that for your other cameras you couple with a modified shoe to avoid shortcircuiting of the extra contacts (in case of this being troublesome). Or a dedicated flash that you can set to standard again by internal switch or exchange of dedicated foot (e.g, SCA system).

 

[Chan Tran]

You would have to find a rather old flash to support auto flash exposure with the cameras you mentioned. Most new flashes today can only do auto exposure if it supports TTL with the camera which none of your cameras supports.

 

[bdial]

If you want compatibility with your FE, one of the Nikon flashes would be the easiest choice. Most of them have the capability to use a cord or hot shoe connection, the proper sync cords are readily available. Vivitar, Sunpack and probably Metz also sold compatible models.

For Nikon, here are some charts by model showing the camera compatibility;
Nikon Speedlight Compatibility Chart

 

[AgX]

With Sunpak and Metz you need a model that takes a dedicated foot.

 

[AgX]

I used to have a Vivitar 283, but it didn’t work the last time I tried it. I assume the caps went bad.

Complete dead flashes to my experience are rather rare. But some old, long-time unused flashes need a real long time to have the ready light to show up. Try with fresh batteries and keep it on for 20 minutes or so. Check repeatedly if it gets hot or so. Switch if off in such case.

 

[ic-racer]

I got a Sunpak flash like this in the 1970s when I got my Yashica 124g and it still is working fine. The rotating shoe lets it stand upright on the side of the camera. I had to trim the shoe so it slides on from the front.
Otherwise just about any pre-digital flash with a sensor on it should work with film cameras. I have a small collection of Rollei, Nikon, Sunpak and Metz units for my film cameras.
Non-TTL Auto flashes are pretty inexpensive these days, so I almost never try to fix them...just buy new ones as needed.

I am now always using Eneloop batteries in all my flashes. Those batteries don't discharge when they sit, so the flash is always ready to go without charging.

 

[Chan Tran]

If you want the ready light in the viewfinder and the shutter speed automatically set to X speed in AUTO you would need to get a Nikon flash.

 

[shutterfinger]

I would put a set of fresh batteries in your Vivitar, turn it on, and let it set for a few hours to over night. Sometimes the electronics will self heal after extended periods of non use with age.

 

[Bill Burk]

I would get a Wein SafeSync or similar adapter. Sure 40 volts trigger was considered safe for cameras back in the 70’s but I think (someone take the opposing viewpoint if you like, it’s just a thought) that using a high voltage trigger might pit the contacts. Back in the day we would be under warranty or have repair options or maybe even a bit of planned obsolescence.

We need to be nice to the old cameras now.

 

[AgX]

If you want the ready light in the viewfinder and the shutter speed automatically set to X speed in AUTO you would need to get a Nikon flash.

Or a other maker's flash dedicated to Nikon directly or by means of switch or exchangable foot.

 

[terryw]

I'm not sure that the OP was asking for dedicated flash recommendations; just a suggestion on replacing the V283. None of your cameras require a dedicated flash; as none of the have TTL flash metering. All that you need is a hot shoe or a cable that gives you PC connection on one or both ends. The V285 requires a special cable to connect to a PC port on the camera.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...Jj-QlXNydRanSEMoM5UQ57z8IwEElLOYaAoX1EALw_wcB
You can find a Vivitar 285HV on eBay or used from just about any of the online sellers, like B&H or Adorama (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/802210631-USE/vivitar_233965_285hv_flash.html). But, there are many others to choose from; lots of Chinese makes that are in production today. You used to be able to get a Lumipro 180 from Midwest Photo, but it looks like you can't any longer. If you don't mind the weight and size, you might think of getting something like a handle mount flash (Sunpak 544 or Metz 45 or Vivitar 3900).
You might look at something like this for a standard flash shoe:
https://www.amazon.com/Meike-Speedl...EANSPDVN23P&psc=1&refRID=DG801J15QEANSPDVN23P
This flash is non-TTL and has manually adjustable power. It does not have an auto mode (auto thryristor), but you can adjust the output for the same effect. It can also be an optical slave. It says that it can be connected via PC port.
This one has quite a few more features and is a bit more expensive, but basically the same; non-dedicated, fully manual and supports off-camera slave triggering:
https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-IV-W.../B00PGTOX26/ref=psdc_3109929011_t2_B00004TVSP
You probably want to look for something that the same or similar guide number as the 283 (120 ft @ ISO 100 according to the manual; 60@100 is probably more realistic).
You can also use TTL flashes, but you just won't get any of that functionality; most of my Nikon SBs have an auto mode. If you need auto flash mode, then look at any of the Nikon hot shoe flashes from the SB-24 to SB-80DX (except the SB-50DX). They all have standard hot shoes and PC cable support, and will all work as manually adjustable flashes, as well as, an auto flash. I love my SB-28s on all of my old Nikons. I can even use them as TTL flashes on my more modern cameras, like my F4S or FE3A
If you want something small with just enough output for indoor or fill light outdoors, then the previous suggested Sunpak 321 is a great option. I think the Nikon SB-15 would be right in there, too. The SB-15 will work with your FE ready LED.

 

[AgX]

I'm not sure that the OP was asking for dedicated flash recommendations; just a suggestion on replacing the V283. None of your cameras require a dedicated flash; as none of the have TTL flash metering.

You mix-up things.

When such features as automatic setting of shutter speeds, indication of flash readiness or even film speed and aperture setting were introduced, the respective flashes especially of non-camera manufacturers were called "dedicated flashes".

The OP hinted at such feature at one of his cameras.

When the TTL feature was introduced at cameras this just meant a (though most important) extension of the features of "dedicated" flashes.
But often only the first generation of such interacting flashes is called "dedicated". The next generation just "TTL flashes", implying that they are dedicated to a brand of cameras.

 

[ic-racer]

Yashica FX3 Super is a good example of what AgX describes. The Yashica flash is dedicated to that camera and shows a ready light in the viewfinder, but there is no TTL exposure function.

 

[Chan Tran]

There are many used flashes that would meet the OP need and inexpensive but if the OP want a new one there are only a few choices. Flashes like Youngnuo, Godox don't have Non TTL auto mode which the old Vivitar 283 had.
Or the OP can buy my 283 cheap.

 

[ProgramPlus]

I got a Sunpak flash like this in the 1970s when I got my Yashica 124g and it still is working fine. The rotating shoe lets it stand upright on the side of the camera. I had to trim the shoe so it slides on from the front.
Otherwise just about any pre-digital flash with a sensor on it should work with film cameras. I have a small collection of Rollei, Nikon, Sunpak and Metz units for my film cameras.
Non-TTL Auto flashes are pretty inexpensive these days, so I almost never try to fix them...just buy new ones as needed.

I am now always using Eneloop batteries in all my flashes. Those batteries don't discharge when they sit, so the flash is always ready to go without charging.

View attachment 261418

That’s exactly the style of flash I’ve been looking for the same reason as you, mounting on a TLR, in my case Mamiya c33 which has the flash mount pointing out to the side. I’d like to be able to rotate the flash head so that it points up. Do most of this style of flash allow you swivel the mount to either side of the flash?

I want the flash to have a built in pc cord, be a thyristor style and have adjustable output (full, 1/2, 1/4...etc). I think the Sunpak Auto 322 fits the bill.

 

[MattKing]

Do most of this style of flash allow you swivel the mount to either side of the flash?

A relatively small subset of these type of flashes work this way. You will find more flashes that are either fixed or swivel about their centre.
I use a left hand grip with my TLR, and can therefore put the flashes there.

 

[AgX]

More so for european flashes. The last one that comes to my mind is a Metz autoexposure flash from the mid 70's. An here it was mainly intended to yield one more (indirect) turning axis for the reflector head.
Moreover, these swing feet only turn in one direction, thus it may be that the flash would be hanging head down in a use as yours.

The best approach would be mounting a rail under your camera with a flash-shoe attached at one side. You also could choose a rail with lateral grip, and shoe on top of it, but seemingly ypou want the package to stay small.

 

[ProgramPlus]

I’m not against adding the grip, just haven’t purchased one yet. That would open up some options. I still don’t have a flash that is capable of using a pc cord so I’d still need to get a new, old flash.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I use the Nikon SB strobes for all my cameras.

 

[AgX]

I still don’t have a flash that is capable of using a pc cord so I’d still need to get a new, old flash.

Not necessarily. Instead you could acquire a foot/shoe hybrid that got a hot-shoe and a PC-connector or PC-cable sticking out. You mount that under your too modern flash.

A problem though with such modern flashes is that they often have accessorie contacts under their foot, what might cause shortcircuiting problems with a standard foot with just the central contact.

 

[grat]

My older "cold" shoe mounts have a screw in them that prevents the flash from sliding in far enough to short out the central pin.

If there are additional contacts, all bets are off.

 

[wiltw]

You would have to find a rather old flash to support auto flash exposure with the cameras you mentioned. Most new flashes today can only do auto exposure if it supports TTL with the camera which none of your cameras supports.

Not quite true~the modern dSLR flash units from Canon have an Autoexposure mode (Canon calls is 'External') that uses the flash photosensor to determine proper output of light, and then it commands the thyristor to divert the unused charge back to the power capacityor Nikon most likely has a flash with photosensor mode that one can select when it is not used with a nTTL camera body..

The problem for the OP is the desire to use the flash with MULTIPLE BRANDS of camera, so a 'dedicated' flash foot with contacts for one brand is NOT usable on the other brands, unless you put some insulative adhesive tape (like using 3M Magic Mending brand tape) to cover all contacts except the center 'trigger' pin and the metal surround 'ground' of the hotshoe/hotfoot)

 

[AgX]

...that uses the flash photosensor to determine proper output of light, and then it commands the thyristor to divert the unused charge back to the power capacityor

The thyristor doesn't do so, he just cuts off the flashtube...