Ektacolor Blix - Part A - Bad?

[bvy]

Hello. The Part A (clear) component of my Kodak Ektacolor RA4 blix has developed a yellow build up on the inside walls of the container. I bought it a few years ago and used maybe two-thirds of it. It was fine for working solution blix prepared maybe six months ago. Is this component known to go bad? Either way, I'll be reordering soon. Thanks.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Bad! Same thing as hypo in general, it goes bad.

You can replace it with TF5 or C41 fix, but with the latter you must use a different dilution. I think it is about 1/3 or 1/4th the volume.

PE

 

[Rudeofus]

This is the exact same phenomenon as the one described (there was a url link here which no longer exists). You can use the part B of your BLIX concentrates to (there was a url link here which no longer exists), and use TF-5 or some other neutral fixer. If you have a pH meter, you could try to replace your part A with TF-5 and make a BLIX. I have heard PE mention somewhere that this works, but I have no personal experience with TF-5. Contact him for details, maybe you don't even need a pH meter.

 

[bvy]

Thank you both.

You can replace it with TF5 or C41 fix, but with the latter you must use a different dilution. I think it is about 1/3 or 1/4th the volume.

I do have C41 fixer that I mix 1+1 to make a working solution. Just to clarify, you mean 1/3 working solution fixer + 2/3 Part B?

 

[Photo Engineer]

No, 1/3 concentrate to part B to working strength. So, if part A was 200 ml, use 1/3 of 200 ml, and if it were to make 1 liter dilute it to 1 L with part B as normal.

PE

 

[bvy]

No, 1/3 concentrate to part B to working strength. So, if part A was 200 ml, use 1/3 of 200 ml, and if it were to make 1 liter dilute it to 1 L with part B as normal.

PE

I want to make sure I understand...

To make 500ml Blix regularly:
300ml water
60ml Part A
100ml Part B
water to make 500ml

So I would modify it as such:
300ml water
20ml C-41 fixer concentrate
140ml Part B
water to make 500ml

Sound correct?

 

[Photo Engineer]

Almost but not quite. Use 100 ml of part B.

PE

 

[bvy]

Almost but not quite. Use 100 ml of part B.

PE

Thanks. That seemed to work. Frankly I'm surprised that such a small amount of fixer is all that's needed. But it's gotten me back in business for the time being...

 

[sfaber17]

I'm thinking maybe PE is talking about the regular C41 fixer that you mix 200ml with water to make 1 liter, not the C41RA with thiocyanate fixer that is 50/50. Also, the dilution I have down is normally 71 ml part A, 100 ml part B (bleach) to make 500 ml. I had the same problem with fixer going bad. I also have some SM version of Ektacolor that comes pre-diluted and you just mix it 50/50 but that fixer goes bad even in the unopened bottle. I put some in full glass bottles after I opened the first bottle, and that is still good, so I'd recommend transferring it all to glass. Not sure if they still make the SM version anyway though.

 

[bvy]

I'm thinking maybe PE is talking about the regular C41 fixer that you mix 200ml with water to make 1 liter, not the C41RA with thiocyanate fixer that is 50/50. Also, the dilution I have down is normally 71 ml part A, 100 ml part B (bleach) to make 500 ml. I had the same problem with fixer going bad. I also have some SM version of Ektacolor that comes pre-diluted and you just mix it 50/50 but that fixer goes bad even in the unopened bottle. I put some in full glass bottles after I opened the first bottle, and that is still good, so I'd recommend transferring it all to glass. Not sure if they still make the SM version anyway though.

I'm using the C-41 fixer concentrate from Kodak's F2 kit. It gets mixed 1+1 to make working solution C-41 fixer. I've used the modified solution to make a few prints already, and they look okay, but I'm hoping they hold up.

And, yes, you're right. 70ml Part A is the correct amount. I adjusted to 60ml above just to make the 1/3 modification more clear (20ml versus 23.3ml which is what I actually used).

 

[sfaber17]

Yes, that F2 kit fixer is the C41RA version, so I don't know if the 1/3 would apply. Maybe since it is a faster acting fixer, it will work out OK with a higher effective dilution. OK on the Part A, I understand.

 

[Photo Engineer]

The version with Thiocyanate is much stronger than the one without. Both are similar to the RA fix portion of the Blix, but a bit more concentrated.

PE

 

[Wayne]

So what kind of life should I expect out of the blix stock? Kind of defeats the purpose of the 10 liter kit if it won't keep. Mine was brand new in early June, I mixed 2 liters of working solution at that time and put nitrogen on the stock. I think its safe to say it went bad long before now, because that amount of precipitate didn't form overnight. The working solution still looks good, and works good, AFAI can tell. Maybe the solution is to mix it all at once?

 

[RPC]

When I buy bleach-fix I transfer each part into tightly sealed glass bottles. As I use it up (I mix it as I need it), I transfer into smaller bottles to keep them as full as possible, especially part A. It has kept well for a couple of years or more doing this, by then I have used it up.