Ektachrome duplicating film

[quiver]

I had recently won some Ektachrome duplicating film in 70mm, that was expired in 1993. I plan to use this for some general photography. It was rated at an EI of 25 so I know that it isn't impossible to use in this application. I was wondering if it was, given it's age, worthwhile to develop in E-6 chemistry or should I do what I was planning to do and cross develop it in ECN-2 chemistry? I was also entertaining using a variation of C-22 developer without the benzyl alcohol processed at E-6 temperatures for the second developer.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Expect generally anemic looking results, the probability of highlight crossover, and probably also overall color balance errors. But even if the film was fresh, you'd need to test it for exact color filtration. Duplicating films weren't daylight balanced. You might start with an 80A blue conversion filter, plus filter factor for exposure, and see what it looks like, and then go from there. Good luck - you'll need it !

 

[quiver]

Sounds like developing as negative would be the better option given what you say.

What I think I should try is a franken color reversal process using d-76 as the first developer and ECN-2 color developer for the second developer, as well as a black and white reversal process.

Any information for times for d-76 first developer with either of these reversal processes?

 

[railwayman3]

About 25 years ago I used quite a lot of 35mm Ektachrome Slide Duplicating film (Process E-6) for a project which required sets of identical slides. Each batch number carried a basic factor and number for colour-correcting filters which usually gave a usable result, but fine corrections could be made by further filter adjustments. With a bit of patience results from good originals (usually Kodachromes at that time, IIRC) were excellent. I think the main feature was that the film was low-contrast, so probably not really suitable for general photography.

 

[AnselMortensen]

ESD 5071 is a tungsten-balanced, low- contrast, fine-grained slide duplicating film.
When fresh, the EI was 20-25, and as stated above, had a recommended starting filter pack. It arrived from Kodak packed in dry ice.
For general outdoor photography, you'll want to use an 85A filter to convert to daylight color balance if you're planning on processing it as slides. (Don't forget the filter factor).
My suggestion would be to shoot it as color negative and cross-process it as C-41...there'll be a contrast gain, and some interesting color shifts...great for brightly colored subjects.
I have +/- 200 feet of 35mm I am planning on shooting that way.
Have fun!

 

[quiver]

ESD 5071 is a tungsten-balanced, low- contrast, fine-grained slide duplicating film.
When fresh, the EI was 20-25, and as stated above, had a recommended starting filter pack. It arrived from Kodak packed in dry ice.
For general outdoor photography, you'll want to use an 85A filter to convert to daylight color balance if you're planning on processing it as slides. (Don't forget the filter factor).
My suggestion would be to shoot it as color negative and cross-process it as C-41...there'll be a contrast gain, and some interesting color shifts...great for brightly colored subjects.
I have +/- 200 feet of 35mm I am planning on shooting that way.
Have fun!

Thanks I was leaning towards developing as negative given it's age. I was just planning to use ECN-2 chemistry since at least I'll still have the correct dyes made. From past experience there should be an increase in saturation and contrast, possibly even an apparent speed increase, but that needs some experimentation to determine.