EFKE PL25 Reciprocity Data

[Mike A]

Ok, I searched my tail off here and on the AZO forum but found nothing resembling a reciprocity table for PL25. I just ordered a box of 11x14 from John at J&C so any help at all will be helpful.

Thanks,
Mike A

 

[wildbill]

I think there's data on jandc's site but i don't go by it. I've been shooting efke 25 in 4x5 dunked in rodinal 1:50 for about 2 years. Here's a compensation chart i found:
1sec open up 1/6 stop
10 sec open up 1/3 stop
100 sec open up 2/3 stop
I don't compensate for a one second exposure but anthing longer than that i do. Its a very good film for long exposures and doesn't require less developing time for me for most cases. There are examples in my gallery.

 

[Mike A]

It is on J&Cs sight as a matter of fact. It looks like I have to do sum number ciphering jethro, I'd rather use increased time than screw with stops, seeing as I'm going to be stuck in the upper end of my F stops do to my format size.

Mike A

 

[wildbill]

I'd love to see the results in that format. I wouldn't recommend the film for high contrast subjects since i haven't had good results. And i wouldn't try a red filter either.

 

[Mike A]

I'd love to see the results in that format. I wouldn't recommend the film for high contrast subjects since i haven't had good results. And i wouldn't try a red filter either.

Wildbill, Is this stuff more suited for low contrast subdued lighting? I've been researching it for the past hour or two and that seems to be the census thus far, anybody got anything different?

 

[noseoil]

Mike, you will be hard pressed to do much in the way of minus development with this film. That is why I use it in flat light and the 100 form 'most everything else. Where it really comes into its own are those scenes where there is flat light (as in two stops or so between high and low values) and no wind. There were a couple of shots posted recently of a locomotive in very dim lighting. This will show you what flat light and efke 25 is all about.

What it does do well is build contrast like mad, so be careful with development times. I would use pyrocat at 1:1:150 as a starting point and go from there. Rodinal at 1:100 would also be plenty quick. With tubes and minimal agitation, you will have better luck with contrast control. Really a great film for tonality once it is tamed, but don't bother with contrasty scenes until you have done a few film tests. I would use it in 4x5 to get a feel for it, then have fun with the bigger stuff. I think you'll enjoy it, just be careful with times and temperature. tim

 

[Mike A]

Mike, you will be hard pressed to do much in the way of minus development with this film. That is why I use it in flat light and the 100 form 'most everything else. Where it really comes into its own are those scenes where there is flat light (as in two stops or so between high and low values) and no wind. There were a couple of shots posted recently of a locomotive in very dim lighting. This will show you what flat light and efke 25 is all about.

What it does do well is build contrast like mad, so be careful with development times. I would use pyrocat at 1:1:150 as a starting point and go from there. Rodinal at 1:100 would also be plenty quick. With tubes and minimal agitation, you will have better luck with contrast control. Really a great film for tonality once it is tamed, but don't bother with contrasty scenes until you have done a few film tests. I would use it in 4x5 to get a feel for it, then have fun with the bigger stuff. I think you'll enjoy it, just be careful with times and temperature. tim

Thanks Tim, I was kinda leaning towards the low contrast, flat light theory I had regarding this stuff. I've been using PL100 exclusively and find myself in the lighting conditions the PL25 would work well in. I've got a new toy (night vision monocular) that will hopefully assist me with DBI and taming the contrast.
Mike

 

[Papa Tango]

I have just mixed up my first batch of Rodinal clone (PhFormulary) and want to try it out first with 4x5 Efke 25. I expose this film on the meter at 16. What dilution, agitation cycle, and time is recommended for an "average" negative?

I should mention that I have never used any Rodinal/para-amino anything prior to this...

 

[wildbill]

I have just mixed up my first batch of Rodinal clone (PhFormulary) and want to try it out first with 4x5 Efke 25. I expose this film on the meter at 16. What dilution, agitation cycle, and time is recommended for an "average" negative?

I should mention that I have never used any Rodinal/para-amino anything prior to this...

I don't know how you plan to soup the stuff but;
I usually rate it at 25 unless i'm in completely flat light. I use rodinal @ 1:50 for 9min in tanks, lifting and draining once a minute after constant agitation the first minute.

 

[Papa Tango]

Wildbill, perhaps it is simply the camera and lens I use (Super Graphic & Nikkor-W 150), but most of the general Efke 25 I shoot at 16. If it's really bright then I box rate it at 25. This has worked to my satisfaction.

I will be processing in a Combi-plan, so a single slow inversion should replicate your dunk technique, yes?