Efke Newbie

yeknom02 said:

Is Pyro acceptable to use in your standard developing tank, such as a Paterson? What precautions should you take when working with it, and would I have to worry about it staining my sink or tub?

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Pyro works just fine in your Paterson tank. The precautions you should take when working with it are:

If you are mixing the concentrate from dry powder yourself, mix in a well-ventilated area, or outdoors weather permitting, and wear some kind of respiratory protection. Wear nitrile or latex gloves - the kind you can buy at the drugstore are just fine.

If you are buying your concentrate pre-mixed, wear the aforementioned gloves when handling the chemistry. There should be no issue with staining your sink or tub, unless you are truly careless in handling the chemistry (ie spill the entire Part A bottle and then let the spill sit without cleaning it up for days).

If you spill some, a good paper towel and plenty of water are sufficient to clean it up. This is not mercury or cyanide, or even dichromate.

Photo Engineer said:

Thanks again. That looks to be close to normal panchromatic sensitization. The pan curve I show is closer to a daylight sensitization whereas the Tech Pan is rather poor IMHO. But, people loved it so who is to complain? Right?

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It had like a built-in orange filter, so you didn't need one to cut through haze and darken blue skies.

efke/adox chs films have a unique look, I like them very much. If you treat them carefully it is not necessary to use a hardener. I never use one and have no scratches, if you don't develop in machines or use high temperatures it is really no problem. Two rules are important: don't overexpose and don't overdevelop (especialle with 25 and 50 ASA films) - than you get good results. I had very good results in XTOL and Rodinal, but I didn't like them developed in Tanol Speed

Moopheus said:

I think the next guy who says that again should be required to demonstrate.

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Hyponatremia, also called water intoxication. More than one died for drinking too much water after running the marathon in Boston.

yeknom02 said:

I guess you raise a question about Pyro - why is stain advantageous? And what are the sharpness characteristics of Pyro?

When shopping for Pyro, I assume I'm looking for "PMK"? Is it mixed from a powder or liquid?

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I use two of the pyro developers. Check the sites for more info:

pyrocat-hd --> pyrocathd.com

and

510-Pyro --> pyrostains.blogspot.com